clubstylus

I'm still waiting for delivery of CDS tube for making up lower wishbones . Having mentioned I was doing this to someone else(not a Stylus owner)he asked if I'd make adjustable panhard rods as well . So I'll be making one for him but before ordering bits/bobs thought I'd ask if anyone else is interested I'll make them with a left and right hand insert so that it can be adjusted without removing bolts for half a turn or whole turn . Simply loosen the locknuts and twist the panhard tube any amount and re tighten . Supplied treated/painted including the 1/2 in with 5/8 ths shank rodends . Tube will be CDS 1 inch outer diameter . PM me if interested Strength wise the rodends will be 31,000 lbs items

I made an adjustable panhard rod for mine a while back but I just used a single handed thread. The pitch of the thread means I can get close enough that it makes no difference in setting up, but the main reason I used a single handed thread was because if the lock nut fails/loosens then the first thing you will know about it is the axle going out the side of the car!!
I also put a kink in the panhard rod to clear the bottom of the dif.
Pete..

Using right and left hand rodends isn't a problem , just put a little locktite in front of the halfnut before tightening . I modified the chassis end mounting for the panhard in 2005 , so it doesn't contact the diff plus the angle of the rod is better in weight transfer . My bracket is welded directly under the existing mount which goes through the seatpan .ie it's 2 inches below the seatpan mounting point welded to the underside , in line with the original .

i did the same as Rob and it clears the diff, which is an atlas so a bit bigger

Rob. Add me to the list, cheers.

Don't forget the measurements of your bottom wishbones Kev re - making your set . Did you mean them OR do you want the adjustable panhard rod ?

Definitely the Panhard rod.

Not sure about the front suspension at the moment, due to the new wheels. I will fit them & check first. But cant do until the middle of May. If that's OK with you.

OK Kev , I'll await your measurements re-- wishbones in a few weeks . Panhard will be made as per original standard bolt centres for the Stylus which is 780mm's unless when you check yours it's any different

The panhard I've just made for Dave will adjust 10mm's shorter and 10mm's longer (easily) than a standard STYLUS panhard , so it's interesting that FURY's have the same panhard length as the STYLUS Not done one for a PHOENIX yet so they could be different .
My point being that any length between 770mm's up to 790mm's (even 800mm's) bolt centre to bolt centre , can use this panhard without being made to spec ' . The reason for this is that by using a 1/2 in rose joint but with a 5/8 ths shank , the shank is longer than a 1/2 x 1/2 rose joint plus stronger so can be extended without a weakness

Three panhard adjustables made and posted so far --- didn't realise people were keen to get their cars alighned properly , so it just goes to show if you don't say it's available then there's no interest Two more ARB's just made up for a Stylus and a Striker
Another interesting point is that the panhard in Fury's and Stylus's are identical in length centre to centre Maybe JP kept things standard across all his kit designs Jeremy Phillips has also let it be known that he'd like to retire providing he can find a buyer with similar attitudes to kit design , cost and racing as himself Well he has been at it very successfully for 30 years now
It'll be interesting to see who can fill his shoes

One thing that has become clear after making an ARB for the Striker is that the link rods need to be a lot shorter than I actually made for it . Possibly the spring lengths/ride height on this particular car but I had to swap them for a pair 190mm's with the rose joints screwed right in , to clear the lower chassis rails when cornering/ braking . He's off to test it on Friday so I'll probably here whether ' they ' are actually short enough after that

With cars all running different chassis heights and spring rates , also drivers weighing 11 to 18 st , it's very difficult to be spot on with the link rod length . He lived quite near me so it was easy for me to make up another pair ------- for most people it's easier to simply cut off an appropriate ammount and 8mm re-tap . (or post them back to me to do it).

Just had a text from Simon at Abingdon in his Striker to say he thinks his car now handles great and is having a blast ---- link rod lengths are fine at 190mm's

Antnicuk's rotary engined beast , now owned by 'dern' needed new lower front wishbones which I've just finished , including ARB attachments specific to the car-- they were a little bent . (Tony made and fitted his own conventional -- w.bone to w.bone antirollbar) They're slightly wider than the one's made for MattD so's the rodends aren't fully extended --- they're also 5/8ths shank all round.
Pic's of wishbones using 1/2 in rodends with 5/8ths shank 31,000lbs rating but not fitted yet .
The outer rodend will fit into an existing Escort upright using an adapter pin which MattD had made when I made his wishbones.

2nd coat of paint tomorrow

Finished now They will adjust 8mm's narrower ie. 16mm's narrower track but also adjust comfortably 20mm's wider , making 40mm's wider track if need be.
I'll set the width at the 260mm's centre to centre pivot as per his old wishbones as a starting point.
You can see the bend in the old one near the Sherpa ball joint end in the pic's. It'll take a day or two before being dry enough to post .

Posted today