clubstylus

Thought I'd just say now , nice and early in case people fancied coming , that I intend entering the EELMOOR sprint on the 30th Sept' . Again the car will be entered in class E9 , as last year in the WET which is for anything goes , bhp , slicks , wings wise so not much chance of winning against 300 to 450 bhp slicked beasties but perhaps I can embarress them by getting closer than I ought to
My Stylus is really road going but just not tax,mot,insured and without headlights
Hopefully , Matt will get his race licence in time to enter as well --------- TWO Stylus's competing at the same venue again would be good for the ' marque ' ---- especially if other Stylus's turned up to support

Better send off my entry fee now or I wont get in

rob is this the one i came to last year?

alecmartin19 wrote:rob is this the one i came to last year?

The very same

if i'm about i'll pop down for the day again rob!

it was a good day last time even if it was raining! i'll find out at work tonight if i'm going to be around then!

Ready to go now , after a lot of hastle with electrical gremlins in the main loom. It was ok at Llandow and started several times since , just to run it up to temp' once a fortnight. Then it spun while trying to show the green stylus buyer what she sounded like -------- but no start then dead -------- and the same ever since. I was going to trailer it to Nev's as he's ' ace ' at electric's but spent today from 11-00am till 2-00pm disconnecting all wires/block joints and checking with the multi-meter. To start with I jumped the starter terminals just to be sure that functioned and she wizzed round. Up front , on the right hand side , I'd cable tied the loom block joiners to the chassis(at build stage) so clipped it free and pulled the blocks apart. The wires are in a plastic sleeve and when I let them hang down -- water drizzled out We went through very hard rain and water on our way to Llandow going down the A48 so it probably got in then. The blade terminals were white so cleaned them up and WD'd them. Before any cleaning I checked the wires from blocks to starter and back to ign and all was ok. All wires from ign to master switch etc were ok too. VERY STRANGE cos now it starts time after time and seemingly I did nothing because all wires showed good resistance even before cleaning/WD etc. I can only assume the water was the intermitant cause

I intend leaving at 5-45am Sunday morning for Eelmoor so should get there for 7-15am scrutineering. First practice is 9-00am , I think , so should get 2 practice runs and one timed run in before lunch. Then 2 more timed in the afternoon. I've looked at the entries and there's some big power in my class ---------- 400 ---- 295 plus others also 320 in the road going class so FTD will be out of reach Hope it stays dry

So far as I know , Andy Bailey , Matt Downes and maybe Dave Newall later on are intending coming but I'd be pleased to see any of you

Plus Dean Roker --- a Fury owner/driver and TB kit developer remember

Well yesterday it started only intermitantly AGAIN Talked to Neville about the various wire checks I'd done with the multi-meter and the fact that it would start if I jumped the two 'posts' on the starter ---- bit hairy He said to just lay in another wire untill the true cause can be found , perhaps some time after ' EELMOOR ' s urgency
Did that with a plastic covered solid copper wire 2mm thick --------- that should take some volts up to the ignition switch WORKS anyway Cheers Nev' (of the Liphook meet )

HI ROB
I WILL BE DOWN AFTER I WATCH THE GP INTHE MORNING , ABOUT 8.30 AM

CHEERS ANDY

Just been there to set up the event with some other club guys.

Took the road car round a few times, as I'm not competing this time.

All ready to go, looks sweet.

Rob >> Get there early.. the middle paddock is v.soggy, but drying out.

I'll be there 8 ish, as I'm on Marshals post somwhere.

Matt

Cant find it? Can someone post the address.

I may get out of the decorating & go if its not to far.

Good luck Rob.

Hi Kev
just on the out skirts of Aldershot, Hampshire
there is a link from the farnborough district motor club web site , event locations just google it

cheers Andy

Engine starting was perfect but my siezed front brake problem , as at Llandow , reared it's head again to spoil the day At Eelmoor you get 2 practice runs plus 3 competition runs that count. First practice , I started poorly (still finding the new pedal arrangement & ceramic paddle clutch hard to feel -- ON or OFF ) then braked way too early for first turn in . Crossover was tidy but it accellerated so quick down the short back straight that 2nd was on the limiter well before the hairpin so slow into it . Shot along the next straight but lifted again too early for the crossover SO result was 59.9 sec's Last year here in the wet I did about 60 sec's from memory but my best ever time here was 54.79 sec's in the dry/warm.
Didn't think too much of it at the time but when parking in the grassed area paddock after my run -- the car didn't roll on at all and it's sloped a little (never put the handbrake on anyway )
So after the 2nd practice I twigged , because I had to get into 2nd gear and accellerate to get to the paddock(3rd gear was going to stall it ) The moment it was out of gear , without touching the brake , it stopped dead
There was another very strange thing too . After the 1st practice I measured fuel into the 2.5 gallon tank to check what each run would use including queing at the start(there's no fuel gauge now ) It took 3/4 gallon and the run is 0.9 mile plus tickover queing for 15 min's ish Then Dean showed me his video of my start which showed clouds of black smoke --------- still don't know why ---- it didn't do it on 2nd practice. I thought TB ecu's were supposed to give perfect fueling Now I miss the carb's even more
2nd practice still only resulted in 59.6 sec's with an unimpressive start again but better everywhere else. However , as some said , not bad with the brakes jammed on

After spending time farting about with the pedal box then looking at the ' cooked ' pads , I mentally gave up and thought it was wiser to take it home rather than go for the 1st competition run , to see it sieze again possibly doing more damage. At least they'd cooled down enough to load it onto the trailer.
Something for me to puzzle over when time permits. Really not confident about the bias pedal box set up now even though I took ' good ' advice to put it together , rod differing lengths etc etc and cylinder sizes front rear .
Thanks to ANDY , DEAN , MATT , NEV' and my son for support plus Bob , a friend of mine. Two other racers also tried to help which is typical of the club race scene.
Winning cars were 400 and 300 bhp 1st / 2nd with the 3rd position being a 6R4 at 58 sec's which I really should have beaten if on form

You didn't really had much fun from the winter upgrade. And it looks like you will need another one to get it sorted. Have you put the washers on the balance bar already? That would be my first go at it. Or maybe it's just a dodgy brake cylinder?

it will be intresting to find out what the result of your brake problem is! we have the new floor mounted box in ours! hope it is somthing simple anyway!

There are many websites with tech' articles on fitting correctly and adjusting the floor pedals and bias bar set up. However , they agree on the majority of instructions but not totally all After listening to at least three other racing guys and Nev' on set up plus reading about 12 tech' fitting advice pages from google --------- it seems that a good possibility might be that the master cylinder rods are not always moving centrally into the cylinders , depending on brake pressure with my setting . Also that the threaded rod(bias adjuster)must never foul the outer edge of the tube containg the adjuster. Sounds simple but not so easy to achieve if you set up your system from the same sources of advice If for either of these reasons , the piston doesn't return totally within the M.cyl' then it could either slow up / scratch or not come back far enough from an internal drain hole ---- causing the calipers to stop out/pads --------- therefore heating up very fast
Basically the rod's should be equidistant apart at the cylinders and the bias clevis point. Then you shouldn't set the bias so far to the front braking cylinder that the threaded rod ' could ' foul the tube edge at any stage of braking. The tricky bit is that some sites say the cylinder rods should be 6 to 10mm differing lengths -------- others 3 to 5mm and others that the rods should be equal in length but assuming same size M.Cyl's . Also washers are mentioned on some .
This you would think would be plenty to go on BUT ------------------ Tim's RT set up is as mine without washers and with different size cylinders and bias bar wound all to the front smaller cylinder ----------------------- AND HE HAS NO PROBLEMS ------------------ even after 3 years (well not with the car )
So when I've got time , I'll strip it all out and choose a theory then let all know the result . One other strange thing of course is that lapping Goodwood caused no problems and after Tim moved the left clevis to the left a touch at Llandow , I had no problems Obviously competition braking with adrenalin flowing produces greater forces trying to brake as late as possible
NO REAL ANSWERS