clubstylus

We are about to start tackling the doors this weekend!
have you guys put on the door seal, then fitted all the doors? Ive seen from some pitcures that Tim has sent through in the past, that he has used a piece of what looks to be 1/2" box section to space the door away to act like a seal. make sense? i have attached a pic below.
Is this the best way? any tips?

Cheers

Matt

Thats what I did cut some bolts and used as spacers

Cheers George

christ you poys are getting a move on!

you'll probably find the passanger door fits and opperates immediatly once you bond the two skins in the right place, I had a headache with the drivers one though. I had to use spacers on the hindge and trim back the leading edge of the door end then fill the body to get sensible sized shut lines without the door binding on the front wing when opening it.

the driver and passenger side differ by about 5mm! So i can imagine what your saying! I cant say im looking forward to doing it though....

Pete&Matt wrote:the driver and passenger side differ by about 5mm! So i can imagine what your saying! I cant say im looking forward to doing it though....

It's really very easy if you're used to glassing. The inner door needs the appropriate gaps / simple enough / then offer up the outer and hold temp' in place with glue gun or sikaflex . The next day , glass it , then sort out the shutting edge ------------- doddle

is the best way to sort out the shutting edge to simply remove fibreglass where needed and tidy with filler?
ive heard horry stories with these doors! ive also seen some shockingly crap results too, which we certanly do not want!

Pete&Matt wrote:is the best way to sort out the shutting edge to simply remove fibreglass where needed and tidy with filler?
ive heard horry stories with these doors! ive also seen some shockingly crap results too, which we certanly do not want!

I'd say yes apart from setting the hinge end shutline . Make sure that one doesn't need fettling before you set it in ' stone ' I.E. open the door fully a few times before deciding the best compromise of shutline versus ''doesn't foul the body'' gap Everything else is simple . CUT & FILL/RUB

do i do that before or after ive thrown the door across the garage because it wont open and close properlly?!

cheers!

You could always opt for the solid fixed doors like on Tim's car

Pete&Matt wrote:do i do that before or after ive thrown the door across the garage because it wont open and close properlly?!

cheers!

Nah you don't wanna do that far too much work to sort it when your patience returns

i always find that out the hard way though! Still havent learnt.... lol

Well its 13:35 and we have the hinge holes cut and the hinge mounted. Soon found that, as per usuall, nothing fits without having to modify it! We have had to modify the hinge and bring it out by 10mm so that you can actually get the seal on and the door! there was a 10mm gap between the hinge and the fibreglass!

Pete&Matt wrote:Well its 13:35 and we have the hinge holes cut and the hinge mounted. Soon found that, as per usuall, nothing fits without having to modify it! We have had to modify the hinge and bring it out by 10mm so that you can actually get the seal on and the door! there was a 10mm gap between the hinge and the fibreglass!

Well , that sounds about right to me ----- door rubber will squash nicely down to 10mm ----- are you saying you've allowed 20mm

we have allowed 20mm now. Have put the seal on now and put all the door up and it looks about right. Just trying to figure out how the hell these catches are set-up!

weve just had to move the hinge back another 5mm to get all the gaps correct!