clubstylus

Ok, so I stupidly let someone else drive my stylus at the RAF Valley track day today and they gave me the car back with the axle shifted 1.5" to the left
The spin caused the o/s rear wheel to hit something solid and this force bent the panhard (good job that it took all the forces really - could have broken something worse otherwise!)
Anyway, was planning to chop the middle out of it and fit a threaded section for adjustibility, does anyone have any advice on tube size or threaded bar size?
I guess I want it to remain the weak point as the bending of this saved my axle brackets I reckon!
Any thoughts boys????

Yes , don't let anybody else drive your car unless you reckon he's better than yourself or there's no kerbs . If you add the verbal ' clause ' ---- bender pays , it tends to concentrate their mind

My panhard is rather hefty , using 3/4 poly rodends into 2mm gauge tube. . I made that 9 yrs ago but now I'd go for 1/2 inch quality rodends into inserts/welded into light cds tube . Your way in the centre is better though using left and right handed rodends into inserts. If the inserts wont go into the existing tube then sleeve weld it with tube to suit . OR --- just start again with the tube size to suit the inserts .Easier to adjust than mine

Sound advice as normal Rob - thanks
whilst searching the archive, I read that you had changed the chassis anchor point for the panhard - beefed it up a little?
Don't suppose you have any pics???

norma wrote:Sound advice as normal Rob - thanks
whilst searching the archive, I read that you had changed the chassis anchor point for the panhard - beefed it up a little?
Don't suppose you have any pics???

I moved it directly below the manufacturers position / through the passenger seat pan TO ---- approximately 50mm's below that but in the same line . Use a piece of angle iron about 50mm's long and triangulate one end for strength . Bolt through a 1/2 inch hole drilled through one angle side and thick 50mm washer each end to space out the panhard rod . The angle/triangulated needs welding to the rear edge of the seat pan corner --- underneath the car . I first drilled the flat angle in the centre to heavy duty rivet it in place for welding then welded all four edges to the seat pan.
This will help reduce side action of body across chassis , under certain circumstances plus lower the panhard away from the diff nose.

Here's mine when I modified it in 2007.
Shows the before (still fitted) & the new bracket underneath the passenger seat pan corner.

Stops the panhard being hit by the diff housing when you lower the car
(or bottom out the suspension in a spin )
I guess that's why yours bent

Rgds.
Matt

MattD wrote: Stops the panhard being hit by the diff housing when you lower the car
(or bottom out the suspension in a spin )
I guess that's why yours bent

DSC_3740.JPG

Ah! thats why it bent! I thought it bend because of a side impact (as the tyre was pushed 1" in on the rim and took a lot of pressure to blow it back onto the seal again). I s'pose it could have been a bit of both?

Anyway, thanks Matt & Rob - brilliant advice as normal

My axle wasn't centered so I altered the end of my panhard. This lowered the bar away from the dif nose, I did plan on using a bar with left and righthand threads like on a strut brace, so that I could just twist it to change the length then just use lock nuts to tighten it! I was concerned that if the lock nuts should come loose, the first thing I would know would be the body touching the tyres or the bar letting go completely!! So I made what is pictured here. Basically I cut the bush of the chassis end and tapped the panhard rod to accept the big threaded bar, then I brazed it so it couldn't come out. To adjust, I have to disconect one end or the other and add a turn, then locknut. This way I don't have to worry about it coming undone.
Pete...

looks good pete.
you must be my closest stylus neighbour too!

Looks like a good solution