clubstylus

Just some thoughts re: hinged bonnet and also making it removable. On my R1ot I made the bonnet so that I could lift the bonnet or lift an slide off the bonnet - not so hard on the R1ot, I just used two garden shed steel hinges; the short hinge welded to the chassis and the long tongue slides into a...

Regarding the axle in the RT - I thought the "atlas" axle was used to give the wider track (out of capris and many other donors)?

I had noticed this company a while ago - I was more interested with the rear uprights for my R1ot. I sent the link to Jeremy Philips back in August, the company has stopped trading, but may produce batches as they have all the tooling etc. It could be a source for front uprights also and may be wort...

Ricky Evans - he is where I got my heated screen from back in 2004ish - it was £170.00 At the time I tried to organise a bulk by with people from the "Smartgroups" Sylva chat - this got hijacked by Tim he told Ricky Evans he would take all the screens - Tim could not take all the screens a...

Update - springs are changed over but I did not get a chance to set the heights. The new springs are ideal sizes for the shocks and it turns out that the shocks are 12" on the front and 13" on the back; Ally that with 7" springs on the front and 8" rear, then I have got room to p...

Have measured my front shocks (they are not marked as Rob indicated - Protech). The fronts are 12" and therefore I think with the 7" spring(I know Rob says should be 8") I think that will mean the spring platform will be in the middle of it's adjustment and so ideal for corner weight ...

Rob, thanks. I did what you recommended and have 7" 250lbs for the front, to replace the 180s and 8" 200 lbs for rear. That in theory should give a chance to set the ride heights to your spec. I will make sure though that the shocks are 13" all round (Pete's original configuration). T...

I think I have a method!! I went to a motor sport specialist and they came up with a suggestion (other than going to a motor cycle repair shop). Use a hydraulic press - put the shock in upside down and used two heavy plates to slide and hold the coil spring - when the press compresses the spring the...

Yes, the car is on axle stands and the shocks are off. I have wound down the spring adjuster far as it goes so the spring is as relaxed as it is permitted to be. Judging by a replacement spring I have of the same length the there is at least a centimetre and a half before the spring is not in compre...

Well Rob just tried that and you must be very strong! The spring retainer has a countersink that the top of the shock sits in, by trying to lever it, it is an asymmetric force and one side presses harder into the countersink and therefore impossible to "slip off". I tried a pair of grips t...

Rob said that by winding down the spring seat all the way I would be able to get the spring off the Protech shock, I have but..... The spring is still under compression so I cannot release it. Are there special spring compressors for these type coil springs or another method? The new springs, one se...

Pirtek, thanks. They are not too far away from me.

Update on progress towards SVA. I MOT'd the car today just to make sure there is nothing silly to fix before going for SVA. First time the car has turned a wheel on tarmac. Well it is a fast car, brakes need a lot of bedding in, rears are locking up first and I thing I adjusted my bias bar to full f...

If the chassis is out of align front to back, can you not adjust where your rear axle sits with your adjustable panhard rod to compensate?

I sunk in my indicators (old mini/landrover style) centred on or just above the mould line to give a margin on the SVA requirement. I should have a reasonable amount of distance to play with.