Rear 8" drums, is this a problem?

[Werner Van Loock]

Apparently I have the 8" drums at the rear, that is not the problem.

But apparently whoever that assebled the rear english axle put the left backplate on the right an vice versa +180 degree turn resulting in the brake cylinder being at the bottom and the hand brake actuating lever pointing upwards instead of downwards.

It seems to work without problems, but can this pose a problem in the future (operating?sva?mot?)

To change them this means pulling out the half shafts, something I really didn't plan on doing. (Don't have a sliding hammer either)

I'm really getting fed up with the way this has been put together by the previous owner.

I also found that all front suspension rubbers (ball joints) are shot, so also needs replacing. So took front end apart and guess what I found there. The offside rocker arm was seized. Would only move when axle was free, so bearings were seized on the axle, required a serious hammer with a lot of power to get the axle out, bearings burted into a million pieces. So that means new needle roller bearings and maybe a axle as it has scorings on it from the removal.



small update:

It even gets worse, it's a case of what can go wrong does go wrong.

Just noticed the brake shoes being in wrong, left and right shoes mixed, meaning a leading left with a trailing right and vice versa

[Pete&Matt]

we had the smaller rear drums on our axle when we got it. Is the 8" the internal or external diameter of the drum? we had problems getting hold of the parts, as in you cant! you would be better of with the 9" drums.

our cylinders are at the bottom too, as per the original setup, so sounds correct. just ensure you have the trailing shoes pointing in the correct direction!

im not sure how the rocker arms were assemblied on the older chassis so cant help im affraid!

welcome to the world of part built kit cars! when my sister bought a quantum a few years ago, after the first week we had pulled a lot of it apart to fix issues from the previous owner! i would highly advise stripping down the entire chassis and starting again, gives you peace of mind too!

[stylussprinter]

I've said this so many times When comparing new kit cost to part built you must assume an idiot built it OR you will get dissapointed. Just remember that kit builders come in all shapes and sizes -------- engineers (& I've seen some of their work) --- bank managers who've never used a spanner ---- others , who think it's a leggo kit and just clicks together --- proper engineers who build perfection(not so called) & there are a few I know (not mentioning names )---- then the total enthusiast with no experience whatsoever WHO procedes to make a cracking professional job

What , on average , do you think the chances are of finding a well built ' part built ' --- if they've given up on it

Rob --- professional sceptic SORRY WERNER

[Werner Van Loock]

No problem Rob,

Already over it. But I expected from someone building his 2nd kit (the previous owner) and stopped building this one due to a motorcycle accident (proven) I expected it to be put together a bit better then this.

[Pete&Matt]

wouldnt like to see what his first kit was like then!

if its been standing around for a long time (sounds like it has been) thats why its all seized up!

[Werner Van Loock]

Nope, nothing to do with standing long time, as the scoring on the rocker axle goes all the way, and I only moved it in 1 direction, so it must of been too tight in the first place, also the wheel bearings were tightened too much. And brake shoes and backplates in the wrong place certainly have nothing to do with time.

Only thing that appeared because of standing is rust.

[alecmartin19]

if you did want to swap the backplates over so they are on the correct side, its quite an easy job even without a slide hammer. remove the wheels and brakes, loosen the halfshaft bearing retaining plate (4 bolts) get a piece of 1" steel box section and drill 2 holes in it at one end spaced apart so that you can bolt this box section to the hub diagonally then use a mallet to hit the back of the box section. this will work the bearing out slowly. i know its a bit of a crude way to do things but it worked for me when i changed my diff. creates a good chance to get the bearings checked in the axle then too!

[hearbear]

If you have the steel wheels you can loosen the nuts and use the wheel as a slide hammer this worked for me.

Cheers George