Bringing Back the Dead.
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- Stylus owner
- Posts: 3772
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:49 pm
- Are you a Stylus owner?: yes
- Location: ASTON CLINTON BUCKS
WOW !
You really have got to enter competition in that car when it's sorted . It'll be an absolute hoot
I just love the Stylus but she keeps swallowing £££ !
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
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- Stylus owner
- Posts: 3772
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:49 pm
- Are you a Stylus owner?: yes
- Location: ASTON CLINTON BUCKS
It depends which dicipline you compete in. Circuit racing will be the most expensive . Sprinting is a lot cheaper in terms of expenses and safety. If it's road going , there are limits on allowed tweeks of chassis/lightening. If modified , then almost anything goes . In modified it's slicks/wings/stripped out/any power . Safety wise it's cage/harnesses . Best thing to do is join a club convenient to you and chat to people already competing in your chosen chariot type.Antnicuk wrote:i have to learn how to drive first
out of interest, what sort of safety features have to be added to enter competition. When i looked into for my rx7, it was horendous.
I'm pretty sure with your engine , unless you tax/insure/mot it (B5 kit roadgoing), it will be in class D9 same as me.The club you join will have someone who'll guide you to the correct class. D9 means you'll be up against everybody and his dog --- 6R4 / 400BHP WESTIES / RADICAL / etc.
So it's a good roll bar -- 50mm minimum above your helmet --- cut off switch -- tight steering -- no wear in any suspension -- tidy safe wiring --- harnesses . Scrutineers have their pet hates
Come and join us
I just love the Stylus but she keeps swallowing £££ !
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
not much to show but i have been cleaning ll the engine parts and gathering the bits i need, unfortunately my garage is only big enough to do one job at a time, so i am concntrating on the engine. I have ordeed my standaloe ecu.
Its a horrible job cleaning all the bits, especially in this weather, I have started porting some of the housings, I am hoping to finish porting at the weekend and may even get some of it painted. Once thats done its a couple of hours to re asemble. Once its all clean i will take some pictures of the parts and when i start to put it together.
Once the engine is built i will put it to one side and do the pedal box which i will hopefully have by then. That should hopefuly just be a case of a couple of new lines and plumbing them in as i have a majority of the lines in place.
Once thats done i need to pull that car out a bit, remove the tank and paint it, fit a sender and replace. Then i need to refit the rear axle and work on the rear brakes. I have cosworth rear callipers but i need to find a disc that will fit.
Then i can re fit the engine and box, make the exhaust, and do the worst job of all, the wiring i am not looking forward to it. the engine should be quite easy as the ecu comes with a loom and i just need to wire the existing sensors to it. Its the rest of the car loom i am not looking forward to. There is an absolute mass of wires behind the dash board, i only want lights and wipers, not sure what its all for.
Its a horrible job cleaning all the bits, especially in this weather, I have started porting some of the housings, I am hoping to finish porting at the weekend and may even get some of it painted. Once thats done its a couple of hours to re asemble. Once its all clean i will take some pictures of the parts and when i start to put it together.
Once the engine is built i will put it to one side and do the pedal box which i will hopefully have by then. That should hopefuly just be a case of a couple of new lines and plumbing them in as i have a majority of the lines in place.
Once thats done i need to pull that car out a bit, remove the tank and paint it, fit a sender and replace. Then i need to refit the rear axle and work on the rear brakes. I have cosworth rear callipers but i need to find a disc that will fit.
Then i can re fit the engine and box, make the exhaust, and do the worst job of all, the wiring i am not looking forward to it. the engine should be quite easy as the ecu comes with a loom and i just need to wire the existing sensors to it. Its the rest of the car loom i am not looking forward to. There is an absolute mass of wires behind the dash board, i only want lights and wipers, not sure what its all for.
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
- Werner Van Loock
- Stylus owner
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:37 pm
- Are you a Stylus owner?: yes
- Location: Antwerp, BE
- Contact:
So you don't want to see what your new fuelsender says and no dash? No oil pressure warning lamp, what about cables for switching on your lights. If you really start thinking, it's a lot, just for the basics. Though if you don't look at a penny it could be a lot simpler by using more relays so you can use thinner gauge wire to switch the relays.Antnicuk wrote:There is an absolute mass of wires behind the dash board, i only want lights and wipers, not sure what its all for.
Well after a weekend of cleaning, porting then more cleaning, the engine is ready for reassembly.
I have only done a mild street port as I want to use a fairly small turbo and i am only looking for about 350 fwhp. A previous engine with a similar sized port made 460 flwhp at 1.2 bar with a slightly bigger turbo so i think this should do the trick.
This is an end plate, with a secondary port shown, the secondary port is the bigger one and there is one in each of the 2 end plates. The ali bit next to it is a rotor housing where the exhaust port is, i have enlarged these only slightly as i dont want to over come the wastegate and get boost creep.
The 2 primary ports are in the centre plate and i have made these almost the same size as the stock secondary port.
I need more room!
Front plate on the engine stand ready for assembly tomorrow
All the seals, gasgets and springs needed. I always use Mazda OEM as they are proven in 9 second cars.
Here is the reason I havent done as much i should have, I have been having fun in my new car. I sold the M5 as it was too nice and too expensive to do this in! I went to santapod and did a DWYB day. Great fun, complete hooliganism.
I have only done a mild street port as I want to use a fairly small turbo and i am only looking for about 350 fwhp. A previous engine with a similar sized port made 460 flwhp at 1.2 bar with a slightly bigger turbo so i think this should do the trick.
This is an end plate, with a secondary port shown, the secondary port is the bigger one and there is one in each of the 2 end plates. The ali bit next to it is a rotor housing where the exhaust port is, i have enlarged these only slightly as i dont want to over come the wastegate and get boost creep.
The 2 primary ports are in the centre plate and i have made these almost the same size as the stock secondary port.
I need more room!
Front plate on the engine stand ready for assembly tomorrow
All the seals, gasgets and springs needed. I always use Mazda OEM as they are proven in 9 second cars.
Here is the reason I havent done as much i should have, I have been having fun in my new car. I sold the M5 as it was too nice and too expensive to do this in! I went to santapod and did a DWYB day. Great fun, complete hooliganism.
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Well done Ant.
Glad that work grafting those bloody arches on the back have worked to get the Atlas in as originally intended. Very good to see the front end came off well too as I had not picked up the courage to do it yet!
A couple of things - I stipped out about 50% of the wiring cos it was left over from the vauxhall engine not long before you picked it up. It is a mess behind there but I don't think I left much in that was redundant, suprising amount left I know.
The front anti roll bar did sweet FA but that might have been because the cossie is so heavy and the bar was just not up to the job of adding any resistance. The last set of springs I tried (on there now) made a hell of a difference though.
I am not purposely following you around internet forums bye the way!!
Glad that work grafting those bloody arches on the back have worked to get the Atlas in as originally intended. Very good to see the front end came off well too as I had not picked up the courage to do it yet!
A couple of things - I stipped out about 50% of the wiring cos it was left over from the vauxhall engine not long before you picked it up. It is a mess behind there but I don't think I left much in that was redundant, suprising amount left I know.
The front anti roll bar did sweet FA but that might have been because the cossie is so heavy and the bar was just not up to the job of adding any resistance. The last set of springs I tried (on there now) made a hell of a difference though.
I am not purposely following you around internet forums bye the way!!
I think you just introduced me lol.Antnicuk wrote:hi paul, good to see you on here, you should introduce yourself to the locals as the previous owner.
when you getting the ls in the rex then?
Well the RX....hmmmmmm long story. Going to sell this one because I've gone on a mission with this Aristo and want to see it through, just collecting knowledge and bits at the mo which is why I have been lurking on the Supra forum. After all, a Supra is just an Aristo with a blingy body
Will be back with an FD one day tho. My current school of thought is that people need to sell cars for all sorts of reasons and as I know Craig I am in a good position to pick one up when it comes on the market. If I am in the right financial position at the time of course - I've got kids you know!
Ant - I had to do a fair bit of chassis work to get my Nissan engine in (when will these fools see the advantage of Jap power!!! ) - reduced the width of the passenger foot well to open up the tunnel and moved some of the chassis rails in the engine bay. I also made up engine mounts from thick square box tubing - no pictures though as it's away getting the bodywork done.
I'll post some pictures of the mods we made to the bonnet so it fits well and keeps the rain out.... looks like you know what you're doing with the mechanicals
Jasp
I'll post some pictures of the mods we made to the bonnet so it fits well and keeps the rain out.... looks like you know what you're doing with the mechanicals
Jasp
Stylus with a SR20DET Nissan engine
i had a good afternoon after work, the bare block is assembled. It takes about 2.5 huours to dry fit the rotors to make sure all the tolerances are right, it then took about 1.5 hours to actually assemble the block.
f i was building a car from scratch i would have cut the chassis and moved the engine right back, the end of the gear box would have only been about 6 inches from the diff but because i bought a completed car that had all the running gear removed, it would have been a lot of work removing all the carpets, panels, wiring and brakes lines etc. I reckon its about 4 inches further forward than i could have done with a new chassis. But saying that, the car is not for competition, just for fun and as you may have noticed, i like to get back end lose.
i wil fit the rest of the block together tomorrow and then cover it up and leave it.
i'm no mechanic, i just use a little common sense and trial and error, if that doesnt do it, then i ask. I dont really know enough about piston engines to rbuild one, i just leart rotaries because after paying a couple of thousand quid for an engine rebuild i thought it cant be that difficult , i shouldnt speak too soon in case this engine doesnt work
f i was building a car from scratch i would have cut the chassis and moved the engine right back, the end of the gear box would have only been about 6 inches from the diff but because i bought a completed car that had all the running gear removed, it would have been a lot of work removing all the carpets, panels, wiring and brakes lines etc. I reckon its about 4 inches further forward than i could have done with a new chassis. But saying that, the car is not for competition, just for fun and as you may have noticed, i like to get back end lose.
i wil fit the rest of the block together tomorrow and then cover it up and leave it.
i'm no mechanic, i just use a little common sense and trial and error, if that doesnt do it, then i ask. I dont really know enough about piston engines to rbuild one, i just leart rotaries because after paying a couple of thousand quid for an engine rebuild i thought it cant be that difficult , i shouldnt speak too soon in case this engine doesnt work
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Spend another couple of hours this afternoon putting more bits on the block. I put the Fly wheel,oil pump, front hub assembly and front cover on, I also fitted my sump baffle and sump. The turbo II engines dont have a baffled sump and when i put sticky tyres on my Turbo 2 RX7 the oil buzzer would come on round sharp bends on the track, I am hoping for more traction in the stylus so a baffle was a must have.
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Dear Diary (cos thats what it feels like)
did another couple of hours tonight, got the thermostat housing, water pump, front pulleys, alternator, oil pedestal and lower inlet manifold fitted. Not a lot but i had to clean all the parts and paint some bits. Also had make pieces to blank off the unwanted holes from the emmissions of which there is a lot.
I'm going to send the injectors off to have them cleaned and flow checked, there isnt a lot more i can do to the engine as i dont have the ecu to make the engine loom and i dont really want fit the turbo until i have put in the car so i can make sure it misses everything.
I reckon by the weekend i will be ready to cover the engine and put it away until i have the rest of the car ready, hopefully i will pull the car out of the garage on saturday degrease and paint the chassis at the front, I still need a pedal box, i think i'm going to end up buying a complete one from OBP at this rate.
no pictures i'm afraid.
did another couple of hours tonight, got the thermostat housing, water pump, front pulleys, alternator, oil pedestal and lower inlet manifold fitted. Not a lot but i had to clean all the parts and paint some bits. Also had make pieces to blank off the unwanted holes from the emmissions of which there is a lot.
I'm going to send the injectors off to have them cleaned and flow checked, there isnt a lot more i can do to the engine as i dont have the ecu to make the engine loom and i dont really want fit the turbo until i have put in the car so i can make sure it misses everything.
I reckon by the weekend i will be ready to cover the engine and put it away until i have the rest of the car ready, hopefully i will pull the car out of the garage on saturday degrease and paint the chassis at the front, I still need a pedal box, i think i'm going to end up buying a complete one from OBP at this rate.
no pictures i'm afraid.
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
on time so far, engine is finished tonight, bascally ready to drop in and wire up.
I decided to port the wstegate on the stock turbo as i ave ported the engine i was concerned that it may over come the wastagate and give me boost creep. if a nice medium sized turbo turns up before its due to go in nthe car i will fit that and wont have to worry.
here is the nice shiney new engine
I decided to port the wstegate on the stock turbo as i ave ported the engine i was concerned that it may over come the wastagate and give me boost creep. if a nice medium sized turbo turns up before its due to go in nthe car i will fit that and wont have to worry.
here is the nice shiney new engine
Help! just starting out
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly
Edit: Getting the hang of it............. Slowly