Bringing Back the Dead.

Antnicuk · Post by **Antnicuk** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:45 pm

I quite like the look of the tripple res, Do you use one? i dont suppose you know what size the nipples are roughly?

Post by **hearbear** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:52 pm

Antnicuk wrote:I quite like the look of the tripple res, Do you use one? i dont suppose you know what size the nipples are roughly?

I have fitted it and if I am correct it is 8mm. at the base of the res there is divider between each section to keep a small amount of fluid in case of a leak out of a circuit.

stylussprinter · Post by **stylussprinter** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:44 am

A thought just occured to me regarding this thread ---------- if you have a hydraulic clutch , therefore needing 3 res's , so fitted a triple ----- you would then restrict your ability to upgrade the fluid for track use (if you intended some track use

) I filled all 3 reservoirs with racing fluid when building my own new floor pedal box THEN just was lucky enough to be talking to Neville Powell about the new spec' braking etc and he said -- '' don't put racing/upgraded fluid in the clutch cylinder OR at some point you'll get a failure & have to remove the engine to sort it ''

I then immediately drained the clutch res' and refilled with dot 4 .
Apparently the seals fail very quickly with anything other than dot 4(his advice)

Just a thought

Post by **hearbear** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:36 pm

Shouldn't be a problem for me Rob I am using bog standard fluid

. I can't see how the fluid would effect the clutch slave as the seals are all of a likeness, but the thought of removing an engine to sort it out I can see why you drained it out. My slave is old fashioned and you can get it out from the outside which is good as it is leaking already

Antnicuk · Post by **Antnicuk** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:32 pm

it is a good point and i will be using AP fluid as i experienced fluid boil at brands and ended up in the kitty litter.

I stripped and rebuilt my slave cylinder at the weekend and there is just one rubber seal around the piston so i would be surprised if its affected more than a brake seal, also it bolts on with 2 bolts from the top of the bell housing which i can get to from the top so is a 5 minute job to take off.

stylussprinter · Post by **stylussprinter** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:08 am

Mine's inside the bell housing as it's a hydraulic bearing and they mustn't have race fluid SO I'm told

If yours is external then it's not a big deal -- easy to sort

Antnicuk · Post by **Antnicuk** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:12 pm

I got to the work shop today with the capri halfshafts and removed the ford studs and put a set rx7 stud which i had laying around as they are an inch longer to allow for the disc. and alloy wheels. That was a nice easy job and the thread is the same.

I also machined 5mm off the outside of the hub to fit in the fiesta disc which it now does, looks to be just a case of bolting it all together and i have rear discs. I also bought a sierra hand brake cable which isnt going to be so easy, some how i have to join the sierra rear half to the english axle front cable. Not sure how as it looks like i have enough cable to run it up and down the car a couple of times

I have seen 2 capri LSD axles on ebay in nthe last couple of weeks and both have been well over 400 quid. Well chuffed as i only paid £150

i like a bargain.

Not much else done as i have been working lots, but i should get a good crack at it the next week or so.

I have orderd my loom which should be here next week. I would like a new dash but the westfield style ones are 4inches too short, any ideas?

Antnicuk · Post by **Antnicuk** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:39 pm

I have not been able to do much in the evening as i have been working long hours so had no time but got a bit of time at the weekends.

I fitted the shafts to the axle, fitted the callipers and brake lines then fitted the axle bakc again. The hard part was the hand brake but i have done it. Looks like it should be ok.

I have decided to go for a new loom, I removed all of the old wiring and started fitting the new loom. I have also bought an Electronic Digital speedo with water temp, fuel, revs and all the warning lights built in. With that and the ecu controller that comes with the Engine ECU, they will me all i need to know.

I have made a new dash from MDF and will mount the stalks that came with the car.

Here comes the next problem, I'm not sure what the stalks are but they are definately ford. They have a flasher relay plugged straight in the bottom under the indicator stalk. Here are a couple of pics. Can anyone help me with the wiring of this as i'm completely clueless! I bought a bog standard Car Looms loom which i think are used by Robin Hood for the sierra donor.

Any help with wiring these stalks up with this loom would be greatly received as Car Looms.co.uk couldnt help.

Post by **Werner Van Loock** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:55 pm

Can't help with wiring, but it looks like stalks from a late model escort, eg MK5 onwards.

Schrodinger · Post by **Schrodinger** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:19 am

Just looking at the plumbing for your disks, it looks from what I can see that you have put the pipes into the highest union on the calipers, they realy need the bleed nipple in there

stylussprinter · Post by **stylussprinter** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:21 am

Schrodinger wrote:Just looking at the plumbing for your disks, it looks from what I can see that you have put the pipes into the highest union on the calipers, they realy need the bleed nipple in there

If you look carefully at the photo about 2 inches below the pipe entry point , I think that is a rubber covered ' bleed nipple '

It's just that the photo's taken from above BUT is still the highest point

jefferybond · Post by **jefferybond** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:31 am

Blimey, those caliper mounting brackets look thin!

Jeff

Antnicuk · Post by **Antnicuk** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:17 pm

The bleed nipples are the same height as the entry point so will hopefull be ok. Its just a bit of opticle illusion. I tried the callipers several ways round and left to right to get the nipples at the highest point.

I thought the brackets were thin too, but they were sold as being specifically for converting the atlas axle to rear disc. I will monitor things very closely when it all goes to gether as I am of the attitude that more is better, I queried it the manufacturer and they assused me they were fine. Also the discs are much smaller than stock discs so much less leveridge on them. Also, not being cast they are much stronger in the direction of the force they are being pulled so can be a little thinner. Manufacturers make the whole hub out of cast iron so it has to be thicker.

suck it and see, i think the saying it although if they were the fronts, i wouldnt have used them!

Any clues on the electrics guys?

whiterabbit · Post by **whiterabbit** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:47 pm

See my offer under "Argh Electrics" in the General Stylus section. I am working on a fair copy of these circuits to post here.

Lurker · Post by **Lurker** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:22 pm

I was told they were MKiv stalks if that's any help.

Are you going to run a brake bias valve? Going back about 18 years or so when I first tried discs on the back of a kit car (westfield) I had to practically turn them off to get the balance back. Ran on rear drums on all cars (light ones) that followed and never had a problem on or off track so long as the front set up was good.

clubstylus

Bringing Back the Dead.

Triple res'

slave cyl'