Rebuild time

[spegru]

I only ever had a printed copy of the build manual and of course it's 13 yrs old.
Anyone got an electronic version?

I will get round to uploading those pictures next week

[stylussprinter]

As I said on another topic , you'll find it on these forum topics . I put it here last year

[spegru]

Sorry about the lack of pics so far - I havnt been able to get it out of the garage to get any decent ones.
However the update for the day is that I just got the Omex Injected 2.0 Zetec running for the first time - just last night.
Remarkably easy to upload the Omex supplied map, and it starts within ~3secs of cranking
(just a pity that the injection pump I was supplied with turned out to be faulty, otherwise it might have made it to Stoneleigh)
Seems remarkably similar to the previous 1.8 DCOE setup so far!, but then I've only driven it slowly round the cul-de-sac so far!
A bunch of tidying needed and then I can take it out on the road proper.

[CMA]

Was it you I was talking to on the Robin Hood Stand, I was the one with the red Stylus on there.

Rob

[spegru]

Yes that was me
Nice to meet you Rob (I never caught your real name at the time)

Steve

[stylussprinter]

Sorry about the lack of pics so far - I havnt been able to get it out of the garage to get any decent ones.
However the update for the day is that I just got the Omex Injected 2.0 Zetec running for the first time - just last night.
Remarkably easy to upload the Omex supplied map, and it starts within ~3secs of cranking
(just a pity that the injection pump I was supplied with turned out to be faulty, otherwise it might have made it to Stoneleigh)
Seems remarkably similar to the previous 1.8 DCOE setup so far!, but then I've only driven it slowly round the cul-de-sac so far!
A bunch of tidying needed and then I can take it out on the road proper.

Well done on the first start it's always great to here it run when you've done nothing but look at it for ages

[spegru]

At long last here are some pics of the wind up windows as they are today. Note the steel channel at the leading edge. The perspex window slides up and down diagonally.

Note that the window does not go all the way down, but it does go far enough for wind in the hair/ dartford crossing tolls/ adjusting the mirror etc

the main frame for the window runner is hidden inside the door so difficult to take pics of that - but it's basically a couple of diagonal rods that are not at the end of the door but a couple of inches away. The runners are fixed through the perspex. I had to cut the outer skin to remove the top edge and create a slot for the window to go into. the up and down lifter is made from the original escort window lifter significantly modified with a long pivoting lever and at the bottom of the door. Its probably possible to improve on that part and even electric may well be possible (and possibly lighter with recent compact motors too)

The Front edge channel was not originally there but it prevents the windows bending outwards at speed

The Seal at the top of the door skin is a standard small window seal from europa spares or some such place

[CMA]

Steve,

What is the front channel from? I'm looking for something similar as my windows flap a little at speed.

Rob

[stylussprinter]

If they are the bolted in type not wind up then it's because they were fitted wrong at build. If you remove all the bolts or rivnuts which ever were used --- lay a very small gauge plastic or rubber tube OR even a piece electric cable ----- along the very bottom edge where the door top turns 90 degrees under the bolt holes. Put your poly side screen back in and bolt up ---------- that will tilt the top edge into the rubber on the screen pillar . If it's not tight enough use a larger tube ---- job done

Mine never flair out even flat out on circuit 130mph plus

[CMA]

Cheers, will add that to my "To Do" list

Rob

[spegru]

Channel is approx 8mm and was from B&Q. Bent to fit the 'glass' and welded mounting/triangular fillet at the bottom. Rivetted to the door

[CMA]

If they are the bolted in type not wind up then it's because they were fitted wrong at build. If you remove all the bolts or rivnuts which ever were used --- lay a very small gauge plastic or rubber tube OR even a piece electric cable ----- along the very bottom edge where the door top turns 90 degrees under the bolt holes.

This is how mine are fitted, with alloy angle and a flat strengthener on the inside. The angle is screwed into a flat piece of steel unger the door.

I guess you mean put the tube under the side where I have put the arrow?

[stylussprinter]

I mean behind the sidescreen at the very bottom between it and the alloy angle --- it kicks it in enough to put pressure on the windscreen pillar when shut

[CMA]

Rob, Forgive my stupidity but I cant work out where you mean to put the tube for it to do what you say.

On this pic, looking end on, if you put the tube in each of the lettered positions:

A = Would tip the window out
B = Would only twist the strengthener not the window
C = Wouldn't work
D = Would tip window in
E = Would tip window in but not look too pretty


As I said it's prob me being daft.

Rob

[stylussprinter]

Rob, Forgive my stupidity but I cant work out where you mean to put the tube for it to do what you say.

On this pic, looking end on, if you put the tube in each of the lettered positions:

Door.jpg

A = Would tip the window out
B = Would only twist the strengthener not the window
C = Wouldn't work
D = Would tip window in
E = Would tip window in but not look too pretty


As I said it's prob me being daft.

Rob

Well now I can see why you didn't understand ---- what a peculiar arrangment to fit the poly sidescreen Your ANGLE piece would normally be fitted facing the other way , fixed to the door top edge where you have an inner strengthener . This would be rivnuted a little over halfway up the angle about 100mm's apart . Holes would be drilled in the poly to match the rivnuts and then use stainless domeheads to fit poly to angle.

With this arrangement --- putting a small tube or foam packing in the very bottom edge of the ANGLE behind the poly ----- will result in kicking the bottom of the poly out , therefore the top in ---- bingo

YOUR POSITION '' B '' but with my ANGLE position . This was P.Powell's original fitting advice in 1997