Top rocker arms

[PeteC]

My chassis is circa P.Powel so the top rocker arms are of the pressed steel type (wide in the middle, tapering to the ends). My question is, are these the same regardless of wether I am using the sierra or escort upright? I am using the sierra upright (thought I'd have more scope for brake upgrades, didn't realise how heavy it was) and Peter had to machine the steering arm to fit the escort rack. I had to pay extra for this as he didn't have the correct taper cutting tool at the time. On a similar theme, whats the best way to adjust the castor angle?

Thanks
Pete..

[stylussprinter]

My chassis is circa P.Powel so the top rocker arms are of the pressed steel type (wide in the middle, tapering to the ends). My question is, are these the same regardless of wether I am using the sierra or escort upright? I am using the sierra upright (thought I'd have more scope for brake upgrades, didn't realise how heavy it was) and Peter had to machine the steering arm to fit the escort rack. I had to pay extra for this as he didn't have the correct taper cutting tool at the time. On a similar theme, whats the best way to adjust the castor angle?

Thanks
Pete..

Regarding the uprights having the same rocker ------------------ only way I can answer that is for you to give me the measurement from --- centre of rocker TO centre of wheel end taper . Then I'll check a spare pair I've still got since making my own ok.

Castor isn't adjustable by simple means on a standard chassis ALTHOUGH --- it isn't too difficult to acheive actually .

I have slotted the rear rocker bolt hole and made a clamp to keep it in position . You probably wont want to do that but you could grind or cut 3 to 5mm's from the front face off each lower wishbone inner joint bush holders.
That way you can push the lower wishbones towards the front of the car and that will increase castor. Obviously , once you've cut 5mm's off , there may be a little patch welding to do plus reduce the poly bush and metal inner accordingly .

Both the above will increase the gap between the lower outer wishbone joint and the upper rocker outer joint when viewed from above --- ie the top is trailing the bottom--- got it
I also made my own lower wishbones so it was then easy to push them right forward due to using national rodends. More castor gives stability at high speed plus much improved low speed tight cornering ability

[MattD]

Funnily enough... I've got my rockers off at the moment for mods.

Bit of a work in progress, but I had started to draw them up for later !
175/176mm shox side, 180 outer (top of taper), 185 outer (bott of taper).

Does that match your spare Rob ??

[stylussprinter]

Funnily enough... I've got my rockers off at the moment for mods.

Bit of a work in progress, but I had started to draw them up for later !
175/176mm shox side, 180 outer (top of taper), 185 outer (bott of taper).

Does that match your spare Rob ??

Stylus Rocker Arm.jpg

I'll measure tomorrow Matt --------- finished in the shed for today . Took some more f/glass off the outside edges of the new seat for easier fitting then tried painting it black . For some reason it didn't go on very well , possibly greasy without me realising it . I'll give it another coat tomorrow ---- for interest , it's almost 6kgs , more than twice my driver's seat (I'll be removing it for competition )
I only bought it for any '' passenger '' prepared to risk a ride

[stylussprinter]

OK guys , I've measured the rockers which is obviously easier when not installed on the chassis. Centre of rocker bearing to both inner and outer arms centres is '' 175mm's '' . These were my originals supplied by Pete Powell in 1997 so made by Neville Powell , who designed this pressed steel needle bearing type , to replace the JP design.
Very close to yours Matt , so possibly just a measuring glitch when doing your own