clubstylus

The engines been here for what seems months what with work plus sorting out the BRG Stylus . I've just started work on mine now . Fuel pipe out(carb' stuff)cleaned the tunnell of grease/crap and put two 8mm copper fuel lines in with olives soldered 15mm back , to help grip. Chassis in the engine bay cleaned. Loom out.Master cylinder out.Pedals and pedal box top cut off and treated with the trusty Hydrate 80.So now the steering column will need supporting with a bracket I'll have to make. While doing this I noticed the drivers side engine mount rubber was hanging on by about 20mm top/bottom plus it had fractured around the plate/tube weld edge and was a touch bent . Another little job to do but the passenger side is fine. The only way you'd know the rubber was failing would be to jack it up from under the sump a little , then inspect with a mirror and torch ---- worth a look though --- I'd have been caught out if the engine wasn't being upgraded which could have been very dodgey on track Next thing to do will be putting in the new floor pedals then removing the tank ready for an alloy foam filled one/injection pump/filter.(not using a swirl pot).

Doesn't look like I'll be entering Gurston on 15th July , just too much to do and work(the kind that pays)
Rob

Steering column bracket made/fitted but column not secured yet. Straightened the engine mount and welded both sides after ' v ' ing the crack out . Also made and welded on a support which I think will stop it failing again . All hydrate 80 treated x two coats and hammerited and hanging up to dry. Removed the the other mount to give it a good look over but it was fine so that got hydrate and painted too. I try to do a bit each day when I get back , that way it'll gradually get finished What I've found though , is a little rust in crevices , where the steel gusseted area meets the chassis tubes SO I've scraped out the sealant that I put in when I built it and brushed / hydrated and painted them too
Well worth the effort while the engine's out cos you can't see it normally

Rob

Working and family took most of the weekend BUT after a lot of cursing I did get the pedal box positioned and holes drilled for the cylinders . Having tried my existing metal cutting hole saw with miserable results , off I went to the local tool shop and bought a 38mm high speed pukka beast I've no idea what other people have used for the job of cutting 38mm holes through the footwell but this tool was useless blunt in no time even with dipping in oil every 15sec's or so ; in fact it didn't cut one complete hole It cost £7-49p so wasn't cheap/nasty
In the end I resorted to marking the holes using the holesaw then drilling 20 holes around the circle , knocking them out , finally filing them to shape
Anyway done now , just the brace to drill/fit then position and fit the throttle pedal

Getting there Rob

stylussprinter wrote:Working and family took most of the weekend BUT after a lot of cursing I did get the pedal box positioned and holes drilled for the cylinders . Having tried my existing metal cutting hole saw with miserable results , off I went to the local tool shop and bought a 38mm high speed pukka beast I've no idea what other people have used for the job of cutting 38mm holes through the footwell but this tool was useless blunt in no time even with dipping in oil every 15sec's or so ; in fact it didn't cut one complete hole It cost £7-49p so wasn't cheap/nasty
In the end I resorted to marking the holes using the holesaw then drilling 20 holes around the circle , knocking them out , finally filing them to shape
Anyway done now , just the brace to drill/fit then position and fit the throttle pedal

Getting there Rob

Had the same problem when converting to the hydraulic clutch ended up marking with the hole saw and drilling a lot of small holes round this and knocking out also. I then had the small problem when fitting starter and the clutch master cylinder was hitting it by about 10 mm so I had to move the cylinder to the side and mod the pedal and grind the cylinder hole to the side and and plate over the old hole. God it is good fun I must have done some thing right as I have a clutch with a good weight and it works

George

Steering column bolted tight now and front footwell plus engine bay painted around the steel sheeted areas etc. Carbon cover over the holes left after cutting pedal box off . Just need a bit more to finish it.

Looking good Rob, where did you get your pedal box i've seen them for as little as £55 +p&p i think thats the way to go.

Phil

Tim's purpose made for the Stylus . The steel gusset where it joins the drivers side chassis tubes would make it very tricky to risk fitting any other maker's box , as there's only just enough room to fit the far right cylinder plus it's bloody awkward cutting that particular hole. Most drills are too long really , it's a struggle

Today it absolutely bucketed down so no landscaping possible , half way through a job too
What with finishing early yesterday and no work today , I took the chance to finish the pedal box . One of the little problems is that having very carefully marked up all the required cylinder holes and bolt holes ----------- you then start bolting it all tight -------- but the steel sheet footwell isn't dead straight so the holes ' go walk about ' once the bracing bar pulls it straight
A little more filing required anyway it's all done now , just waiting for some brake pipe unions to complete the oil supply plus a 3 way junction to allow a brake light to be connected.
When that's done I can fill with fluid then bleed them through . These pic's don't come out very well due to the black hammerite but it's handy if someone else is fitting some. I looked through Tim's pic's of the red chassis car in his build manual and broshure .

Looks very tidy Rob. I like the shape of the pedals. Can you use the grip tape for SVA instead of pedal pads

Cheers George

Not sure about that , you'd need to ask Tim . He put the orange RT through SVA with those pedals I think ?

I might have to fettle with the throttle position a touch to get good heel/toe action but that'll come once I've driven it to feel out the position and play around with the balance bar which is something else I've previously had no experience of.
Another little bit of 'fun' will be removing the old midget fuel tank Hoping to get at it leaving the axle in situ'

Rob.

our pedals were supplied with the grip tape, so i guess so!

Pete&Matt wrote:our pedals were supplied with the grip tape, so i guess so!

In that case I will go and find some skate board tape.

George

It's available from GPR -- 100mm wide by 1 metre £22 .Part number ALL14165 racerstape

phone order 08701 600 950

Rob.

i used skateboard grip tape on my pedals and its still on them now. just make sure you de-grease the pace before you stick it on, then you can use a fine grade file after you have stuck on an oversized piece. just file the edges of the grip tape and they'll be a perfect fit. exactly how they fit it to skateboards! easier to do before you fit the pedals though!

Well after a bit of brute force plus removing the hand brake actuator rod and stretching the rear body a touch OUT she came The new tank is in too but not strapped down yet . It is supported from underneath but as it protrudes through the boot floor it will need strapping to hold it firmly. It had to come through the boot a little because I didn't want the pump , which is slung underneath , to get ripped off in a backwards '' OFF ''