clubstylus

yikes! we just bolted all ours up together! we thought we would have to cut down the rod lengths anyway! hmm not looking forward to this one!!

Yes , me too . Did read various sites on setting up re- rod lengths but then found mine differed by 10mm so left them as was. The smaller cyl' for the front braking had the longer rod fitted. That assumes the rods are screwed completely into each clevis though .
Having driven it now , I'd say that using a heavy duty clutch cover means that with the leverage from Tim's pedal , the cylinder could have been smaller . I'm using a 4 paddle ceramic plate so modulation is tricky One of my reasons to change from Escort pedals (with cable clutch)to SSC's floor/hydraulic , was to reduce the pressure required . If anything it's stiffer Anyway that's another subject but is related to my new system.

we have a cable clutch anyway! but no need for a paddle plate etc as were not pushing very much power!
our rods are screwed all the way in and the pedals are in the middle hole from what i remeber. If we move the pedals back, then we will need to cut the rods down.

Pete&Matt wrote:we have a cable clutch anyway! but no need for a paddle plate etc as were not pushing very much power!
our rods are screwed all the way in and the pedals are in the middle hole from what i remeber. If we move the pedals back, then we will need to cut the rods down.

If you're using the middle hole , the leverage might not be in line , ie tending to push the rod up as well as forward My pedals are both at the rear most hole (nearest to driver). Are you tall

your correct in that ours do push up and in.
we are both around 5ft 10" both use the same seating position usually anyway! we know it all needs sorting out when we put the fluid etc in!

This should really be in a different topic but thought I'd better follow it up here after the previous report.

Well I stripped the brake pedal out then started looking at every tiny detail as though building it again. When first fitting it the bias bar was already mounted so didn't know what the mechanism looked like. I assumed it to be a sphere with threaded centre , held in the centre by circlips or whatever . Not at all , it's more like a 5mm wide disc of the same diameter as the tube and the threaded rod adjuster is part of it left and right . Each side of the disc is another smaller disc to restrict rocking angle . SO ---------- That got a polish as did the inside of the tube . I also chipped off the powder coating around the ends of the tube and polished them too. Bearing in mind trying to acheive the pushrods being parallel , I measured the distance apart the master cylinders were -- centres . That was 2.5 inches. Got some 2mm thick 1.5 inch washers to place each side of the tube. Then cut 5mm off the length of the longest rod (to the smallest cylinder -- front brakes) as it was previously 10mm longer as supplied . So now the difference is 5mm -- not --- 10mm between rods. As I started to reassemble the clevices to the rods mounting them at 2.5 inches centres apart on the bias bar -------- I realised that if I screwed them home all the way into the clevis as some sites advise (and I'd previously done )----------- it would stop the centre of the clevis which holds the bias bar from FREE FLOATING when braking So I screwed them home then back one turn to clear the clevis barrell . Finally checking the 5mm rod length difference. Also on assembly I soaked the lot with WD and copper greased the washers both sides . When fitting the pedal pivot bolt I tightened it then released it so that the pedal fell back easily.

Possibly this combined with washers and correct distance apart plus lesser rod length difference MAY be the answer

Just need to remove the COOKED hawk black pads that are breaking up and replace them. Shame cos they were still 8mm thick

Worst problem for me though is not knowing if it's sorted untill a test day can be had as it's not road going

One further thought , that my cousin brought up , was mounting a return spring on the brake pedal This seems a cheap and fairly simple thing to do so might put my brain to work on that idea There's not much chance on actually fitting a spring to pull the pedal back to resting position BUT I could fit a coil spring between the pedal and bulkhead with a little thought Then if non fast return really IS the cause regardless of set up then that should sort it