clubstylus

stylussprinter wrote:It's not all about power . No M3 has ever matched my Stylus on track with just 200 bhp on carbs so with your huge bhp you should surprise others and maybe yourself .Don't know about RX7's , I've not come across one on track

Just remembered that at Abingdon , Andy Bailey's friend had a Nissan 200sx turbo'd to something crazy like 400 plus bhp , big brakes , stiff springs , fancy shocks , massive cooler and carbon fibre everywhere (works with Andy at Mclaren) --------- just couldn't stay with me though ------------ kit cars are great

You need balls of steel to drive Nurburgring quickly, preferably two pairs !

Waste half an hour with these... If nothing elase watch the F1 & Derek Bell laps .
The guy in the RUF is artistic in his overtaking

RUF Porsche 911 - 8min 30 - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=R5uniReXED4

Radical SR8 - 6min 55 - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=iwtyZosuP ... re=related

Derek Bell -Porsche 956 - 6m 41 - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0M11GOVfA50

F1 1967 onboard - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=n6aNnZ4q8 ... re=related

i'm just not brave enough to give it beans at the ring

Have look on Youtube for duncan cowpers outing at the ring in his new Busa Turbo Rush last month, he has evo's overtaking him, Then look at the old top gear video of him in his blue rush and its like a different driver, going hell for leather!

as Matt says its all about the bottle and I anit got it over there!

piccys as promised!!

well done gents, keep up the good work. summers coming

Good to see the pic's of your FLIP front from underneath Pete/Matt I think I'm going to fit a 90 degree angle peice to the top & bottom edges of the closing side body then I'll be able to put two vertical pins in the bottom edge/holes in the top edge , both sides of the Flip , so's to help locate the flip nice and tight we'll see but that's what I'm thinking looking at yours and other peoples cars. Some seem to flap around a bit at high speed

Rob

i know thats what Nissanman has done on his. We took a slightly different approach.....
if you look at the first pic, you will see an ally plate on the side of the shell, with a lead in on the top. When the front closes down, it wraps around this and keeps it neatly inline with the outer shell. We are putting rubber tie down type straps on the front and also have a centre catch told hold it all in place. Seems to shut down nice and tightly and is a lot simpler.....

I can do some pics if you want me too?

No , it's ok guys , it's just interesting to see other peoples solutions to the same end

i did similar to pete and mat 2nd time round, the first time i did it before it was painted i wasnt happy so i changed it when i refitted everything and its much better. First time i put 2 90 degree bits of ali with a third small lip so that once closed the flip would stay tucked in and not flap as the 3rd lip held it in (like a Z shape). The second time i just put one piece of ali attached to the flip that is bent in towards the engine so as i lower the flip it automatically locates inside the wing and pulls thee flip sides in and cant flap about once shut. I also put a strip of ali under the wing that sticks out about an inch so it acts as a slam panel for the flip, just like P&M's in the top picture.

I am using rubber hooks on the side and the original bonnet catch for the centre and it doesnt flap about or rattle. I could have used Dzuts (?) fasteners on the side but i dont like them hence the rubber hooks.

Rob, your flip will have a lot of sideways movement especially if its going to be lighter than the original, the slam panel helps a lot as the flip and the wings will be a different shape/curve but with a slam panel, the flip moulds to the wing shape as it shuts. Even though mine was one piece and i cut it, the fibre glass seemed to change shape and when i re fitted it the curves of the wing were quite different but the slam sorted it.

Not sure what you mean by a ' slam ' panel BUT if you mean the extension of 40mm or so that follows the shape of the cut off body still joined to the rest of the body ---- the bit fixed underneath and extending out YES , I'll be doing that anyway (ssc's standard way of fitting the flip ) but where the flip is cut from the rest of the body horizontally , that's where I'll fix alloy angle TOP & BOTTOM shutting surfaces. Bottom with two pins pointing upwards and the flip alloy angle with two appropriate sized holes . The bonnet will be fixed with pip pins as now in front of the windscreen so it simply can't move at all. That way I might not even need side clips or rubbers , we'll see

yes, thats what i mean by slam panel. Have you got your new front yet?, does it still have a cut out for the bonnet or is it built in?

Antnicuk wrote:yes, thats what i mean by slam panel. Have you got your new front yet?, does it still have a cut out for the bonnet or is it built in?

Haven't got it yet , it could be many months , Duffey's a law unto himself
No flip fronts come seperately , they get cut and refitted after whole body mounting as does the RT . You glass the bonnet in which is where the strength comes from then continue glassing , about 3 inches high , from the 'D' sections right up to the front of the bonnet shut ledge . I will also glass a very small 90 degree edge about 15 or 20 mm's high around the flip , just 50mm's back from the ' slam ' seat. So although a lightweight piece , it will be rigid too . Track work gives the bodwork a hard time vibration and wind wise