clubstylus

If it was to easy you would get bored

George

Yeh , probably would George Still it gives me something to chatter about on here and something for others to laugh at aye Couldn't get new seals for my easibleed so Halfords got another sale . All bled in with new R600 now plus airbox , trumpets , pipe and filter refitted . Start her up to clear the air from the water system later on , once I've tidied up the tools all over the floor

She didn't want to start yesterday but today ,after a lot of popping on one or two cylinders then finally popping on all four for what seemed never ending ------ she started Came to temperature very much quicker with the 7mm hole in the stat . About 5or 10 minutes , where before it took 20 minutes . Even on a fully charged Redtop 25 with 680 cranking amps , it really didn't want to start though , so maybe this head is the cause and a Redtop 30 will be needed We'll see , I'll try again Monday once the battery is fully charged again to assess what to do

Exactly the same sennario on Monday , eventually ran after five minutes of trying . Taking the Varley 25 to be tested today and posted the ecu back to Paul for evaluation. It may throw something up that I can't . I have a connection for plugging in a laptop but I have NO idea what to do with it OR what it's telling me

dont want to teach you how to suck eggs, so feel free to swear at me (!) But have you checked cam timing?
oh also - did you get my cheque?

stylussprinter wrote:Exactly the same sennario on Monday , eventually ran after five minutes of trying . Taking the Varley 25 to be tested today and posted the ecu back to Paul for evaluation. It may throw something up that I can't . I have a connection for plugging in a laptop but I have NO idea what to do with it OR what it's telling me

Yes , cheque arrived Alex and many thanks . Regarding the timing , I didn't rebuild the engine and program the ecu . It was all run in on the dyno so just a bolt in and '' start '' job -- ha ha Don't forget that once it chooses to start which it's done twice , it ticks over and runs perfectly , sounding great. My battery 'guy' yesterday said he couldn't check out a race battery without destroying it -- unlike a normal battery . So being fully charged according to my conditioner doesn't tell the whole story . Volts were 13.4 on his device. Until I've heard from Dunnell regarding the ecu I'm lothed to buy another battery . If it is the battery , it will be that power is momentarily cut to either spark or injectors whilst the starter is turning the engine over ,which it does ok. Dunnel's race ecu does this at a set voltage . The ARB will get made when I've stopped farting around with this little problem ok Alex

Often when the cranking current of your starter is high the voltage will drop, if the volts drops below a certain level then the ecu can't work. Possible solutions are, short term, push start or add an extra battery with jump leads. Long term uprate the supply and earth to the ecu and possibly add a small battery protected by a diode so it only supplies the ecu and can't drain to the starter motor but charges as normal.
If it still doesn't go start checking you engine connections, earths and crank sensor sheilds, that sort of thing.
Good luck Pete C.

Dunnell didn't get to open my parcel till just before going home so only had a very quick look. No battery low power to ECU indicated but did show an air temp sensor issue at some point Last year it came loose and I re-sikaflexed it into the airbox. Just have to see what tomorrow brings once he's been right through it .

poor earthing from engine to battery - therefore giving excess resistance when cranking?

I've got two cables from chassis to engine. One bolts to the block on the drivers side , the other bolts to the Raceline sump . Both have been just refitted due to the rebuild then the battery negative bolts behind the coilpack bracket onto the head. Low cranking power should have shown up on the ECU but Paul said power to the ecu was fine. Still puzzled at the moment.

The ECU is in the post to me. Paul has checked it for everything and his dog , to find no logs of any problem apart from logging the air sensor fault(failed sensor or shorting wires) . However , this automatically reverts the setting to 20 degrees C which does not prevent starting. On top of that , my ecu and engine were used together to start when on the dyno . I've talked to Paul on the phone but every item failure we discussed would prevent it running at all. The TPS , all sensors , etc. Once started it runs absolutely perfectly , rev's gradually rising and the engine sounding sweeter after a few minutes running. He is as baffled as I am . Once I've got the ECU and got it running , I will plug the laptop in . This is what I find difficult -- putting the software in then actually using it to fault find. The langauge used isn't in my vocabulary Come home carb's -------- well they're still in the shed along with the loom and ECU .

does sound like a sensor that is giving wrong info until it gets warm, what is there?
map sensor?
water temp?
oil temp?

or is maybe your alternator not kicking in to start with and you're just running off battery for a while?

or what about fuel pump slightly seized and taking five mins to free up enough to give enough fuel delivery?

H'mm , Possibly check the fuel filter but the pump itself you can here working away pretty loud as normal.

Probably wrong but how old is the petrol in the tank? I had a starting problem on my lawn mower took me ages to work out it was just the petrol that had gone off, fresh petrol and it started on the button.

As I said, it's a long shot but I guess your open to any ideas that might work.

Certainly worth a thought but it does run totally normally once I've got it started