clubstylus

As usual couldn't find a decent tape measure ! Must have bought 100s over the years
So ended up using a 6"/150mm steel rule.

I think the pics say all you need to know... I've left them intentionally large.

Sump to ground = 100mm
Chassis underside to ground = 140mm adjacent to engine mount
So sump is 40mm lower than chassis, & about 20mm lower than gearbox case, not allowing for chassis wedge.
Bodywork/sills are marginally lower than the chassis frame & the front crossmember/nose closer to 130mm clearance

Thanks matt,

Looks like you have a raceline sump, do you know how much shallower it is compared to the standard escort sump?

The Raceline sump is flush with the bottom of the T9 bellhousing so you can work it out from that Werner.
CHECK out the photo underneath the front end of the GREEN Stylus I sold which shows the sump/bellhousing --- on CARS FOR SALE Topic

And its a 2 litre, think that's a bit taller than the 1.8 you're using ??

Matt[/b]

matt, nope, 1.6/1.8 and 2.0 have exact the same dimensions, only the bore is different

But what sump do you have then as Rob says that the raceline sump is flush with the gearbox. Yours is not and it's not a standard escort sump either.

Just measured mine and it's 40mm lower then the bell housing, so this means if you had my sump your sump would be 60mm lower then the chassis, looks like i will have to lower it another 5mm. This can be correct as the engine is now level but the chassis is a little wedged (front axle stands on bare chassis, rear ns axle stand on lowered chassisrail and os with 2cm wooden block)

Hi Werner

Mine is the Raceline jobbie, we're just talking about different measuring points.

Rob was talking about where the bellhousing meets the sump, which is flush where they join (the same level).
The sump cooling fins hang down from this about 5mm.
I was talking about the underside of the gearbox case, rather than the bellhousing.

Matt

Does anyone have a picture from the underside of the car regarding space between fuel tand and body?

I'm thinking of putting in a bit bigger sized alloy fuel tank. To the looks of the chassis a wider tank should fit and maybe a higher and longer one too.

the tank is very close to the back of the shell and is almost touching on ours. Yes, you would make it wider, but not that much wider, its all very tight in the back there! Unless your running stupid power, the standard tank will be fine as the engine wont be working hard as the cars are light!

Pete&Matt wrote:the tank is very close to the back of the shell and is almost touching on ours. Yes, you would make it wider, but not that much wider, its all very tight in the back there! Unless your running stupid power, the standard tank will be fine as the engine wont be working hard as the cars are light!

I'd agree with that . When my car had a 3.89 diff and just 165bhp(2lt Zetec) , it would quite easily do 30mpg . If cruising at 80 odd mph in 5th gear, not spirited driving , then it did well over 30mpg. Using the standard injection as I think Werner is , will give around 130bhp so probably mpg could be closer to 40 Easily 200 miles on the standard tank. If you haven't got a standard tank , I've got one Werner , along with fuel level sensor

I've got the standard tank, but it's rusty already and was tjhinking of putting a alloy one in and if i'm going for cutom why not make it bigger then was my thinking, but I don't know where the limit is at the rear. (between body and fuel tank)

Pete, is your car a live axle or dedion? As there's some substantial difference fuel tank wise.

ours is a live axle

stylussprinter wrote:

Pete&Matt wrote:the tank is very close to the back of the shell and is almost touching on ours. Yes, you would make it wider, but not that much wider, its all very tight in the back there! Unless your running stupid power, the standard tank will be fine as the engine wont be working hard as the cars are light!

I'd agree with that . When my car had a 3.89 diff and just 165bhp(2lt Zetec) , it would quite easily do 30mpg . If cruising at 80 odd mph in 5th gear, not spirited driving , then it did well over 30mpg. Using the standard injection as I think Werner is , will give around 130bhp so probably mpg could be closer to 40 Easily 200 miles on the standard tank. If you haven't got a standard tank , I've got one Werner , along with fuel level sensor

Well,

My collegue with the exact same tintop does 52mpg while I struggle to get 38mpg (diesel)
So my guess is that I will never get to 40mpg in the Stylus. And the plan of standard injection is far gone as I have a set of 40mm GSX-R throttlebodies and manifold (straight tubes) and a set of 38mm kawa zx636 throttlebodies and manifold (bent tubes). So I can choose, think the 38mm ones suit the standard cam and 1.8 better then the 40mm.


So is mine Phil, thanks for the info.

More progress last weekend and more questions off course. (clickable images)

Relocated the steering column mounting holes as this chassis was originally for escort steering column, but previous owner added brackets for sierra column, but too much to the left so the column touches the throttle pedal.


Was supposed to be better in the picture, but how is the clutch cable to pedal supposed to be?


Anyone else using the original mondeo alternator bracket together with the idler and tensioner pulley? It's a bit heavy but seems to fit perfectly. And it clears the throttle bodies.


Overall view of the progress. Still need the engine mounts though.

I thought I gave you that with the master cylinder It's a little nylon moulding to take a pin where you have the bolt. I'll have a look in the shed --- just might have one Engine mount wise , I'd need a pattern really . I could make them up by measuring then leave the engine plate undrilled -- you could then drill the plate (3 holes)from your own cardboard/paper pattern off the engine block holes
Let me know if you're stuck and I'll do it That's a huge alternator and bracket Werner. I've got a Raceline one for sale --- alt' plus bracket kit.

Engine mounts are no problem, just awaiting material to construct them.

Never seen a plastic thingy, but thanks for looking.

Well, it fits and is free so I'll stick to it untill funds show the possibility, but even then it will be a raceline sump first, 2nd would be waterrail and 3rd the alternator+bracket.
All things that are in the wishlist together with so many others like Wilwood brakes, raceleda uprights, alloy hubs, floor mounted pedalbox, some descent high back fiberglass/carbon fibre seats, lsd, alloy shocks, and off course a kickass engine.