Modifying exhaust from under car to side exit

[norma]

what's the bet it falls off tomorrow now!

[stylussprinter]

It is certainly amazing that it's stood the test of time. The SSC zetec engine mount rubbers are bonded onto the metal plates exactly the same way and they are used in compression ------------ one of mine still gave way after 3 years on the drivers side which tends to lift under power

It's a bit like being told not to smoke (a good thing ) then watching a man of 97 years smoking a pipe while digging his garden

[spegru]

Right I think I'm going to do this (worried about current underslung being too close to fuel tank).
So it looks like Wunoff for the exhasut can, but does someone have a design for a manifold? (I never made one of those before)
thanks

[stylussprinter]

Right I think I'm going to do this (worried about current underslung being too close to fuel tank).
So it looks like Wunoff for the exhasut can, but does someone have a design for a manifold? (I never made one of those before)
thanks

Like I said , just get the primaries equal length ---- I could send you a photo

[spegru]

Yes I got the point about equal lengths, but I had been hoping for an actual design since I've never made one.
Photos would be helpful of course. Thanks
What kit of bends etc did you use?

[stylussprinter]

Yes I got the point about equal lengths, but I had been hoping for an actual design since I've never made one.
Photos would be helpful of course. Thanks
What kit of bends etc did you use?

I had it made at EXHAUSTS BY DESIGN near Buckingham , on the car . I supplied the silencer plus it's mount and had already cut out the f/glass sill .

[spegru]

Thanks. Do you have a pic of the 4:1 collector down in the sill?

[stylussprinter]

These are a bit dark but best I could do

[spegru]

Norma, I see from your drawing that there is an offset tube/dog leg with dimensions X and Y. Do you have the figures for X and Y?

steve

[spegru]

Rob thanks for those new pics. A nice piece of work.
I see that you also have a dog leg. By the look of it, it brings the centre of the pipe up to a level in line with the top edge of the silencer and about 6in long. Correct?

I just had a chat with Wunoff and they advised against basalt (which is what I was going to go for from other comments here about noise level) because it apparently goes lumpy and starts rattling due to heat. Can anyone comment on that?

Thanks

[stylussprinter]

Rob thanks for those new pics. A nice piece of work.
I see that you also have a dog leg. By the look of it, it brings the centre of the pipe up to a level in line with the top edge of the silencer and about 6in long. Correct?

I just had a chat with Wunoff and they advised against basalt (which is what I was going to go for from other comments here about noise level) because it apparently goes lumpy and starts rattling due to heat. Can anyone comment on that?

Thanks

Yes I can comment = BOLLOCKS Mines been in for over two years without ever repacking . It has to be a repackable silencer , I wouldn't even think about a non repackable no matter what packing you use. Nothing else will lower db's by such a huge chunk , I've been competing for 10 years and have tried everything , sometimes having to repack for every event afresh using rockwool , then e glass --- no better . Just get them to make the silencer then pack it yourself

Dog leg ------------ norma took my measurements to create his drawing so it'll be as his ok It's more like 8 inches not 6 . I didn't draw it out , I don't do things that way. First I cut out the area of fibre glass that I needed to get my 6 inch diameter silencer in , which was 50mm or 2 inches cut below the door sill plus right back to the alloy sheet on the chassis. After that I simply rounded off a nice shape each end purely for easthetics plus clearance from f/glass . Mounted the silencer bracket at the rear then propped up the silencer with wood blocks to get it parallel to the door sill . Only then did I decide what dog-leg would be needed --- the manifold was the last thing to get designed.
I took the car to him , propped up the silencer for him to see the distance he'd need to pipe for the lengths I wanted. Collected the car the following week -- job done

[stylussprinter]

Just checked the dog-leg and it's 10 inches long including the split end 3 inches for joining up.That's distance from silencer to join --- not pipe length which being dog-legged is actually longer.
Also -- the top of the inner dog-leg is 20mm's higher than the top of the silencer as opposed to being level as you thought. This makes it possible for the silencer to hang out 20mm's from the body and almost level with the ground -- as well as clearing all f/glass.

[spegru]

Thanks again for everything.
When you say 'split' I suppose you mean the split pipe for jointing the sections?
When you say 'almost level with ground' you don't really mean almost no ground clearance do you?
Finally when you say "top of the inner dog-leg" to you mean top of the pipe or the upper end measured at centre line?

Sorry to keep asking fine details......

[stylussprinter]

Thanks again for everything.
When you say 'split' I suppose you mean the split pipe for jointing the sections? YES
When you say 'almost level with ground' you don't really mean almost no ground clearance do you? SHOULD HAVE SAID PARALLEL
Finally when you say "top of the inner dog-leg" to you mean top of the pipe or the upper end measured at centre line? TOP OF THE DOG-LEG PIPE THAT'S IN THE ENGINE BAY SILL & THEREFORE HIGHEST POINT

Sorry to keep asking fine details......

[norma]

only just seen this post - sorry tried to upload a pdf - it wont let me....will try something else...wont let me do that either...why??
oh well, pm me your email address if you still want it.....

Norma, I see from your drawing that there is an offset tube/dog leg with dimensions X and Y. Do you have the figures for X and Y?

steve