clubstylus

MattD wrote: Why do kit car owners get hung up on "he's faster than me so must find out his settings & put them on my car".
Every driver will want their "own" setup feel. So its no good me copying Rob's (although its a good start point).
Bit like Hamilton running Button's setup - one like's a flamboyant style - nailed down front/loose rear, the other likes a balanced understeering front - less tyre wear, but more steering angle required. - neither would be happy with the others car

Sorry Dave, wasn't a rant directed at you personally !
Just got on my hobby horse when typing

Matt.

Matt,
Its ok, i didn't take it personally.
The reason why I ask about the measurements is that I think that my car may have been bent slightly before I got it.
When swapping the engine i rubbed the chassis back to metal. This is when I noticed that there had been some sort of repair to the chassis.
I wanted to check the caster for both sides to see if there was any difference.

In reply you your comments about set up I agree, but I do also feel that there must be a good general setting that could be found that would make the cars easy for all/most to drive quickly on the road.

After all, making progress on the road is very different to track work. I think what most people are looking for is a good base setting for fast road use and then the fine adjustments will come with time, be it on track or road (road proably less so, as you never get near 10/10ths on the road)

As you said Rob's settings are a good starting point and probably for most, are enough. They are for me at the moment.

Just out of interest, would it be possible to replace the Sherpa joint with a rod end and the pin that you have turned?
Are the threads the same on the Sherpa joint and the rod end?

Dave

Dave , the rodend is 5/8ths shank unf thread . Re your ' good setting for all ' ---- JP worked that out years ago hence his wishbones are designed to give 3.5 degrees , as I mentioned in my post above .

I need to replace the lower 'Sherpa' ball joints on my Phoenix, (I am currently running Susuki ones as I can not get the Sherpa one), but the two joints are gone in less then 150 miles (450BHp, 8 inch slicke 6 pot Brembo etc), and I like the Idea of using a rose jointed front end, (My rear suspension already uses a majority of rose joints), I've down loaded the drawings and picture from here, and I can get the wish bones made up, and the rose joints no problem, but where can I buy alloy/better uprights, I am still using the Escort ones.
My reading is the Race leda one's where no good anyway and are no longer available, and I've looked at the Rally Design site but can not find.
Thanks for the help.

Kelvin

Berw wrote:I need to replace the lower 'Sherpa' ball joints on my Phoenix, (I am currently running Susuki ones as I can not get the Sherpa one), but the two joints are gone in less then 150 miles (450BHp, 8 inch slicke 6 pot Brembo etc), and I like the Idea of using a rose jointed front end, (My rear suspension already uses a majority of rose joints), I've down loaded the drawings and picture from here, and I can get the wish bones made up, and the rose joints no problem, but where can I buy alloy/better uprights, I am still using the Escort ones.
My reading is the Race leda one's where no good anyway and are no longer available, and I've looked at the Rally Design site but can not find.
Thanks for the help.

Kelvin

As you know Kelvin , my Raceleda uprights cracked after I went too far onto and over the rumble strip at Goodwood . You can still get these cast ones from RALLY DESIGN in Kent , who bought the rights . However , I didn't use Escort geometry Raceleda's anyway because you only got two advantages --- adjustability & lightness . Mine were made for me by a fellow competitor using billet ally with Cortina geometry which gave me what the Escort type did PLUS the upright's stub axle is 20mm's higher up the upright ---- giving me a lowering opportunity
On top of all these three features , my friend also strengthened the RACELDA design by smoothing out the casting shape plus making them thicker in critical areas. They take WILWOOD calipers and have a better stub axle location than RACELEDA's . Being an engineer by trade and having access to all the latest plant to cut bits from a computor drawing made it possible. He still works as an engineer but has also been in business making various bits for export and uk sale -- uprights , wishbones etc etc.

Contact Dennis Silman at Siltechracing@silman.f2s.com . My friend is Andy Silman (a VERY quick driver) and Dennis is his dad , who used to work for CASTROL Racing research .
Please mention my name as your contact Kelvin . Tell him the CAR plus the grunt running through it though

Hi Rob, OK I am in contact with Dennis and will ove forward to get these fitted over the winter, my engineer is working on rose jointed wishbone. I just found a source of Sherpa van knuckles, in a Place Called Sungai Boloh, (Bambooy River) about 40Kn North of Kuala Lumpur, apparantly he has loads, but will only sell as a pair, i.e One left one roght, so I will bin the two left one's. Makes it expense.

Berw wrote:Hi Rob, OK I am in contact with Dennis and will ove forward to get these fitted over the winter, my engineer is working on rose jointed wishbone. I just found a source of Sherpa van knuckles, in a Place Called Sungai Boloh, (Bambooy River) about 40Kn North of Kuala Lumpur, apparantly he has loads, but will only sell as a pair, i.e One left one roght, so I will bin the two left one's. Makes it expense.

OR ---------------------- you could use Siltech lower '' pin '' which is the same as the top '' pin '' , then you will be rodends all round

He makes all the fittings to go into his uprights , brake caliper plates , pins , stub axles etc. You would probably need to use a larger rodend than I do at the lower outer wishbone due to your slick shod huge power . I use 1/2 inch on the top outer rocker but none have ever snapped on circuit even when I hit that tree that sheared all the other rodends ---- theory says I shouldn't use rodends in that position of bearing the suspension weight BUT they've been used in that way for 7/8 years and my car only ever goes on track

Can anybody supply the dims for the rose jointed bottom Arms?

Shooter

Do you mean ' pins ' that will fit the Escort lower upright taper ? Is so then MattD SSC has a contact . If using SILTECH uprights then he'll supply every fitting you may need . The difference between ESCORT and SILTECH upright , apart from better geometry , is ESCORT upright is tapered , SILTECH straight.

stylussprinter wrote:Do you mean ' pins ' that will fit the Escort lower upright taper ? Is so then MattD SSC has a contact . If using SILTECH uprights then he'll supply every fitting you may need . The difference between ESCORT and SILTECH upright , apart from better geometry , is ESCORT upright is tapered , SILTECH straight.

No I've got the pins and joints, I wondered what the dims are for the drawing Matt posted of the lowere arms themselves

Shooter