More work & £££ !

[MattD]

have you thought about a chargecooler? you could get one about the same shape/size as your i/c and put it where you like. Then run a nice little rad up front, modern plastic rads weigh next to nothing. I am now running a charge cooler. At least that way you wouldnt have to change all your pipe work. There is a little bit of weight added but for every degree you reduce your intake temps by, you gain 1 bhp so well worth looking into.

Either that or look to run a front mount but it will be more work redoing all your pipe work.

Is that a new cage? Who did made it?

Hi Tony

I'm not too familiar with what a chargecooler is - but have just google'd it a bit - looks an interesting alternative, but not right now
Getting to know how a turbo system works & can be developed was part of the attraction of going that route.
For now I'm keeping the original setup (as I know it works) & doing the best I can to manage the heat issues.
I've already got my eye on forged bottom end components & Emerald or Motec management for later on.

1 BHP gain/loss, for 1 degC cool/hot is an useful statement. What's a practical inlet target temp verses UK ambient temps, or is that a stupid rookie question ??

& yep - new cage - there's a separate thread on it. Front section made by Nev Powell, & grafted onto my existing rear hoop.

Matt

[PuppiesBalls]

I too am charge cooling due to space/heat issues. Its pretty simple, Rather than cooling the intake air with an air to air radiator (an intercooler) you cool the air with an air to water radiator (charge cooler) you then have to run a seperate pump & radiator to cool down the water down.

[MattD]

But presumably you still need a water cooled matrix in the turbo feed circuit, plus the second water rad & pipework ?
Seems like a lot of extra weight & kit ?

[Antnicuk]

on full chat i wouldnt want to see much more than 10 or 15 degrees above ambient. Do you have anyway of knowing your inlet temps? it would be well worth fitting an inlet temp sensor and gauge as if it gets too high you could cause damage as you will increase your chances of detonation.

The radiator for the charge cooler can be very small and not weigh much more than a couple of lbs. The pipe work is small also, not much bigger than hose pipe so the weight isnt that much more.

Cage looks good. I always like a full cage on a car without a windscreen, i think it makes it look like a car again.

[MattD]

on full chat i wouldnt want to see much more than 10 or 15 degrees above ambient. Do you have anyway of knowing your inlet temps? it would be well worth fitting an inlet temp sensor and gauge as if it gets too high you could cause damage as you will increase your chances of detonation.

The radiator for the charge cooler can be very small and not weigh much more than a couple of lbs. The pipe work is small also, not much bigger than hose pipe so the weight isnt that much more.

Cage looks good. I always like a full cage on a car without a windscreen, i think it makes it look like a car again.

Hi Tony

No, currently no way of seeing what the air temps are. Something to think about though.

A mate who has a tuned scooby powered Murtaya kit, has had his Simtek ECU upgraded to monitor 3 temps sensors - ambient & either side of the intercooler - basically to see whether he needs a bigger cooler or not.
So he has datalogged his engine temps. (and other things, as Rob knows ).

A quick & dirty way for me, would be to borrow 3 thermocouples from work & trap the wire loops inside the hoses somewhere.
Its OK getting the temps - its understanding what to do with the info that's key.
For now I'm going to run with the bleed valve fully in, so around 220bhp. Thats a big enough initial step up from 175 ish. Then gradually wind it up to 270 (one dry day)
That should help keep air-temps down until I'm ready to explor the boundaries.

Cage - I wasn't sure I'd like it with a full cage - but its growing on me.
I expressly went for your low front/tall rear hoop design, as I hate them when they look boxy.
Means I can get a basic hood too.

Matt

[MattD]

Alternator now fitted - boy is it a tight fit !
& I've still go the ARB link arms to fit in that area somewhere

At least I have a charging battery & working water pump now
Offered the nose back on last night too & found the expansion tank hits the bonnet return (where the hinge would bolt-up).
So that will need fettling too.

[PuppiesBalls]

Hows the progress Matt?

[MattD]

Well I can see the light at the end of the tunnel

If I ignore the crap filling & painting jobs that need completing (I really hate bodywork), the mechanical & electrical mods are done enough for me to drive the car.
As ever its a kit car - so its never REALLY finished

So I'll MOT the car shortly & see if anything falls off.
Not really the weather to see how an extra 50-100hp (depending on boost) feels though, especially on 888s

Have been playing around with aeroscreen heights too, as I want the air flicked over my head rather than full face - how about this prototype ??

Cheers
Matt

[Bikenuts]

I'm afraid that looks like it's going to blast you full in the face - screen needs to flick up (i.e. become more vertical) over about the last 4” look at the fairing on a touring motor cycle to see what I mean, also look at a screen behind you head - the air that's come over the top of the screen tends to curl round and smack you in the back of the head.

Matt aka Bikenuts

[MattD]

Hi Matt

Thanks for the comments - & yep, tend to agree.
I wasn't too happy when I sat in the seat and saw the thickness edge of the lexan pointed straight at my face.
If I leave a bit more material in I'll be able to heat up and turn the top edge similar to how you describe.

The prototype shown is slightly too tall anyway as its difficult to see the front corners of the car.
My main bugbear about the original aeroscreen was that air came off the bonnet horizontally & hit me a chest level.
What I don't want though is a big vertical shape like on a bike.

Somewhere in between is the compromise I'm looking for.

[MattD]

My main bugbear about the original aeroscreen was that air came off the bonnet horizontally & hit me a chest level.
.

I was wrong, I think I meant neck level !
Old bike helmet used to lift & hang on the chin strap, new car helmet tries to crush my neck into my shoulders, which is probably due to the helmet shape ?

So something like this Matt ??

Old

Original

New

Proposed

[Ned]

Becareful there maybe F1 designers watching this item for ideas,they spend millions to get it right and you come along with your sellotape and felt tip and a photo and bingo all done for £2.75

[Bikenuts]

Yep something like that; though I think your going to have to make it a bit taller - ultimately it will depend on the speed range you want it to be effective at but your sketch looks about right for an LMP type car. As you sit quite a way back from the screen I wouldn't like to guess how high - perhaps easiest to start quite tall and trim it down till it's right. For some nice asymmetric screen shapes have a look at some 70's CanAm cars - this was the early days for aero so they were feeling there way too, so remember just because it looks right doesn't mean it is right but if it looks wrong it probably is wrong.

[MattD]

Posting plenty of pics today

My own car is nearly there too - now a year since I pulled the Zetec out
A few silly jobs left - main one is to get the bonnet bulge presentable & painted, plus fit aeroscreen & light covers.

Itching to drive it now

Heading towards a 60s retro look.... well that's the idea

[MattD]

Gonna run with a clear version of this aeroscreen & see how it goes.