clubstylus

I used the mondeo bracket but cut a load off including the idler pulley (you don't need it - and means you can have a shorter belt).
I cut loads more off and then just added a bif of angle to get the strength back - been fine for 7 years now.

Werner you can use a Daihatsu alternator, i used the one from a hijet it's a tiny little thing and only weighs 1.5kgs and a lot cheaper than engine tuners will charge for one.

Phil

Thanks Phil,

But already knew about the daihatsu charade (it's called here) alternator, but that one needs a custom bracket then and have seen many of those homemade brackets fail. I know this one won't break as it's also the egnine mount in the mondeo. Might cut a bit like norma sugests.

Werner Van Loock wrote:Thanks Phil,

But already knew about the daihatsu charade (it's called here) alternator, but that one needs a custom bracket then and have seen many of those homemade brackets fail. I know this one won't break as it's also the egnine mount in the mondeo. Might cut a bit like norma sugests.

Not sure on the Mondeo bracket, but as the casing on the daihatsu alternator is different i managed to use a later vx bracket on mine with a 20mm spacer, perhaps i was just lucky

Phil

I also cut the mondeo bracket to fit my alternator. Had a few issues getting it to clear the bottom of the carb's and top of the oil filter to start with though as mine is an orion engine in which the oil filter is mounted at a slightly different angle to the mondeo. I had an adaptor machined at work to move the original mounting holes. You may be able to see it in my build photo's somewhere.

Also, i'd ask rob nicely if he'll take a picture of the way his mounts because I was looking at his alternator at the track day last year and it was very neat, light and functional and to date I don't think it's caused him any problems. May be worth mounting yours like his!

Werner Van Loock wrote:Does anyone have a picture from the underside of the car regarding space between fuel tand and body?

I'm thinking of putting in a bit bigger sized alloy fuel tank. To the looks of the chassis a wider tank should fit and maybe a higher and longer one too.

Hi Werner, look at my list of pics on "flickr" (url was quoted with my first photos) I included a photo of my custom 10 gallon aluminium tank.
Inlet is on the left, but could be on the right if it suits you. It is 26" wide x 14" fore/aft x 9" deep with a tapered lower rear section to clear the rear swept under body. Hangs on 4 rubber mounted bolts (in compression, not tension ) Pump is from a Nissan Z32, higher pressure & flow than the original Nissan S13, CA18 unit. Tank front misses the Diff & Brake rods by about 2"

Regards, Rossco

Well, after a lousy start in 2008 (a inflammated throat (twice), a weekend of diarhea so stayed in bed for a while resulting in a stiff neck, taking some inflammationstoppers resulting in a stomach ulcer and now a cold)

I managed to fabricate and weld the engine mounts and the car is on his wheels with the engine in.
Welding 2mm box tube isn't easy with a arcwelder. TBH this is my first attempt at welding, never done it before.
I still have enough materials to construct 2 more sets, so might fabricate the parts again and get them welded decently by someone that knows how to weld. But for building this will do.

Then I started cleaning the place up and found my brake lines that were supossed to go between the upright and the calliper,
so will need to get to the braking again.

Good to see it going it the right direction I have just got mine back into the garage after 3 months sitting in the front garden waiting for the extension to the house to be built, it will not be finished for a long time yet but car has a nice dry home now. Check out picture three this was mine just a week ago during some storms http://www.phpbber.com/phpbb/viewtopic. ... forum=skcc you will under stand why I am glad to have it inside now.

Picture No1 gets my vote ..

MattD wrote:Picture No1 get my vote ..

It got my vote also

Werner , you will need to weld a triangular plate about 3mm thick on the top edge of the engine mount that bolts to the block THEN weld the pointed end onto the tube. All original engine mounts were made as yours is but most eventually failed due to engine torque/braking/cornering. Look at the repair job I did on mine when replacing the engine. It cracked around the tube and split the bracket too.

stylussprinter wrote:Werner , you will need to weld a triangular plate about 3mm thick on the top edge of the engine mount that bolts to the block THEN weld the pointed end onto the tube. All original engine mounts were made as yours is but most eventually failed due to engine torque/braking/cornering. Look at the repair job I did on mine when replacing the engine. It cracked around the tube and split the bracket too.

SNAP! (literally!!!)
My steering rack brackets failed too, through lack of fillets....

norma wrote:

stylussprinter wrote:Werner , you will need to weld a triangular plate about 3mm thick on the top edge of the engine mount that bolts to the block THEN weld the pointed end onto the tube. All original engine mounts were made as yours is but most eventually failed due to engine torque/braking/cornering. Look at the repair job I did on mine when replacing the engine. It cracked around the tube and split the bracket too.

SNAP! (literally!!!)
My steering rack brackets failed too, through lack of fillets....

From memory , I think that's because your car was not an RT from the outset but converted by Nathon from a classic , some years old. Pete Powell was then MD and built all cars as designed by J Phillips who thought a bit of tube was sufficient I noticed my ' rack ' moving with the force of moving the steering wheel when the bonnet was open . So the triangular gussetts were welded in years ago before they cracked Fury's had the same problems with engine mountings and steering rack mounts.

Rob, your memory is not working, my car was the one Nathan converted

Phil