clubstylus

Bikenuts wrote:Rob
The more I look into swapping uprights the more complicated it becomes, I don't suppose you'll be making it to any of the kit shows this year? I think I could do with a good chat as to what you've done to make it all work.

Matt

My set-up is perculiar to my car because absolutely nothing is '' as originally built '' front or rear . If you copy mine you'll have to do everything I've done or it won't handle and I've done a lot , guided by my competition experiences .Can't cherry pick it
Happy to chat it over but my pocket money gets spent on track rather than shows .

I'll soon have the front body so thought I'd check out the hinge system using the broken front end . Just for checking I used the forward bolting hole from the original fixed front body/frame . It seems to hinge very well , clearing the sides of my slightly wider frame and the underbody just resting on the crossbar . It's about 4 inches off the ground when flipped so should do ok once properly levelled and adjusted . The '' D '' pieces can be bonded in to suit then spaced between rodend & '' D '' piece with alloy spacers , before being clamped up tight .
Aluminium came today so made up the brackets for the radiator -- just needs the fan refitting then I'll start her up

Hi Rob

that looks like it is working nicely with the front up to a good height .

hearbear wrote:Hi Rob

that looks like it is working nicely with the front up to a good height .

Hello George,
I was a bit worried it wouldn't work as theorised , seeing as I didn't draw a scaled design , merely worked it through in my head . I have a feeling it opens more than the standard set-up , as well as keeping the paintwork off the tarmac . Also it doesn't need a strut to keep it open , just rests on the frame under the crossbar
The fan's back on now and all the electrics re-connected after the welding . Water Wetter and water filled ready to get the air out but now the damn thing won't start/turn over at all/not even click Here we go again -- bloody ECU's . My Webber 45 DCOE's look very attractive right now

stylussprinter wrote:[Water Wetter and water filled ready to get the air out but now the damn thing won't start/turn over at all/not even click Here we go again -- bloody ECU's . My Webber 45 DCOE's look very attractive right now

Have you charged the battery Rob ??, & you'll need a good supply voltage to the ECU before it will function.

Where's that diesel battery you took to Goodwood for jump-starting ??

We can always have a look on Saturday... looking forward to it

Matt

MattD wrote:

stylussprinter wrote:[Water Wetter and water filled ready to get the air out but now the damn thing won't start/turn over at all/not even click Here we go again -- bloody ECU's . My Webber 45 DCOE's look very attractive right now

Have you charged the battery Rob ??, & you'll need a good supply voltage to the ECU before it will function.

Where's that diesel battery you took to Goodwood for jump-starting ??

We can always have a look on Saturday... looking forward to it

Matt

It's been on the charger while I've been working on the car . Pump whizzes round but now't happens at the starter . It was going perfectly before it got laid up . Only changes have been disconnecting the ECU , Alternater , & battery . There's two terminals to choose from for the little wire on the alternater so I may have it on the wrong one - can't see that's the reason. The thick red one's obvious as it's bolted .
I've put it in gear and rocked it -- in case the starter's jammed , just clutching at straws
Anyway it's on the charger again and charging according to the warning light . It's one that you leave on all the time when the car's standing.

Rob

check the solenoid wire and the main wiring at the starter as it may have come loose duing the impact.

Yes , I jacked the car up to look at the starter terminals but all tight. When I was having trouble before and thought it was the ignition switch/& wasn't , I ran a new wire from the switch to the starter in parallel which sorted it. Couldn't remove the existing wire as it's all wrapped within the front loom so it's still there . I'll go over the basics again today .(& it will be basics with my electrics skills )

Rob

Does the engine turn over at all if not check the solenoid wire at starter when turning key for voltage then check the heavy connection into the body off the starter when turning the key as this should should be live also when trying to start. Could be starter motor US.

PS 16 month old grand daughter can make a hell of alot of noise head is bouncing just now.

Yep know what you mean regarding grandchildren . We've got four , one 12yrs , one 10yrs , one 3yrs and another 16mths Together , they take some beating for messing with your head

Car --- Doesn't click or turn the starter . All the dash warning lights ok including the gear change light . That comes on then off after 2 sec's as designed. Fuel pump wizzes up then turn the key to start and it virtually stops but still makes a sound BUT no starter . I've got 3 good earths from the engine to chassis . The battery negative's bolted tight to the engine head .
Don't have a meter so can't check volts on wires --- wouldn't know what to do with it
I wanted to directly wire the starter from the battery to see that it works but not certain where to touch the lead wires to MAIN red is obvious from battery POSITIVE but not sure what to connect the small starter wire/terminal to or from Presumably the starter's getting earthed from its mounting to the bellhousing

By the way , it was a new geared starter 2 yrs ago and just 10 events

Rob

If you dont have a multimeter have you got a spare 12v lamp with a holder & a couple of wires attached?

If so put the leads across the battery terminal 1st (just to test), lamp should light.
Next go across the starter red wire & bell housing. Lamp should light - even with ignition off.
if lamp dosent light try putting the test wires to another "earthed" part of the car, & from the battery live to the bell housing. If the lamp lights everything is good.

Next from the small switched wire on the starter & the bell housing. Switch on ignition & starter switch. If lamp lights it looks like the starter is faulty. If it dosent the starter switch or wire is suspect.

You could run a test wire from the battery pos to the starter (out of gear) switched terminal. The starter should run.

If you borrow a test meter set to DC volts & you know your looking for 12-13 volts.

Thanks Kevin , I'll make up a bulb etc tomorrow

What a good chap you are Kev I knew those quad lights would be handy for something The negative to engine ie. earth was fine . The starter body to starter RED lit up also starter body to both CUT OFFS/when turned on , lit up . Next , from starter body to ign switch / starter terminal / switched on to start & that lit up .Positive input to the ign switch lit up as did the output when switched on -- both from the starter body
SO --- even though it was a brand new starter when I put the engine back in with throttle bodies , it would appear the starter has had it or something wrong . I'll take it out tomorrow , try it again on my tractor battery . If it's no go , I'll take it back to LUKE MOTORSPORT in Aylesbury and let them check it out . It's a heavy duty geared 2.4kw beast so hopefully it just wants sorting Maybe it didn't like dragging the car into the shed on three wheels last October

I would have taken bets on it not being the starter

Rob

Sometimes the solenoids on the starters can get sticky. give it a light "thump" with a soft mallet or wooden handle and try it again. usually does the trick when they stick!

Pete&Matt wrote:Rob

Sometimes the solenoids on the starters can get sticky. give it a light "thump" with a soft mallet or wooden handle and try it again. usually does the trick when they stick!

Yes , I'll try that before taking it out tomorrow . Thanks