clubstylus

re the fuel tank, did you sort it?

i'm running the return to tank into a 2nd pipe into the bottom of the fuel tank, i dont think it matters if its submerged. I dont think i have a breather though. Does it need one?, thinking about it, it needs air to get in to replace the fuel thats been used. I dont really want fuel to be able to come out though. I think the rx7 tank has somesort of 1 way valve that screws to the top of tank. I may try and get one of those, although i'm not happy about having to cut a hole in the top now I have filled it with fuel I may try your method of fitting it in the sender.

Antnicuk wrote:re the fuel tank, did you sort it?

i'm running the return to tank into a 2nd pipe into the bottom of the fuel tank, i dont think it matters if its submerged. I dont think i have a breather though. Does it need one?, thinking about it, it needs air to get in to replace the fuel thats been used. I dont really want fuel to be able to come out though. I think the rx7 tank has somesort of 1 way valve that screws to the top of tank. I may try and get one of those, although i'm not happy about having to cut a hole in the top now I have filled it with fuel I may try your method of fitting it in the sender.

If you have an aero fuel cap , just dremel a 1.5mm hole through one concave side of the outer butterfly clip lock . That's the standard way of sorting it.

i do have an aero lock, will that not allow fuel to come out on hard cornering? i will have to investigate

Antnicuk wrote:re the fuel tank, did you sort it?

i'm running the return to tank into a 2nd pipe into the bottom of the fuel tank, i dont think it matters if its submerged. I dont think i have a breather though. Does it need one?, thinking about it, it needs air to get in to replace the fuel thats been used. I dont really want fuel to be able to come out though. I think the rx7 tank has somesort of 1 way valve that screws to the top of tank. I may try and get one of those, although i'm not happy about having to cut a hole in the top now I have filled it with fuel I may try your method of fitting it in the sender.

Will use the original pickup then as return.

As for breather I have a one way valve that i will mount up high. I don't want an open breather in the cap as the garage will smell to petrol when i has been standing there for a while and as you say you might spill the bloody expensive stuff

and here we go again on a new question.

Regarding roll bar, i will have to get one made custom over here and want to know how and where it has to be mounted.

Also regarding the recent post of SVA fail regarding the roll bar. Is it necessary to have nuts welded to the underside of the holes of the red arrows?

I've also seen roll bars with supports going to the back and some to the front, wich is best and what are the distances for the green or yellow arrows?
Guess that where the supports mount that crushtubes will need to be welded in?
Also in the cross bar in the roll bar where the belts mount need crush tubes for the eyebolts?

Antnicuk wrote:i do have an aero lock, will that not allow fuel to come out on hard cornering? i will have to investigate

Mine hasn't done in 8 years on track . It's a very tiny hole plus you wouldn't fill your tank up to the neck .

Werner Van Loock wrote:and here we go again on a new question.

Regarding roll bar, i will have to get one made custom over here and want to know how and where it has to be mounted.

Also regarding the recent post of SVA fail regarding the roll bar. Is it necessary to have nuts welded to the underside of the holes of the red arrows?

I've also seen roll bars with supports going to the back and some to the front, wich is best and what are the distances for the green or yellow arrows?
Guess that where the supports mount that crushtubes will need to be welded in?
Also in the cross bar in the roll bar where the belts mount need crush tubes for the eyebolts?

Just opposite the mounting plate in your pic' ---- you need a plate around 3 inches wide and 4 inches high welded vertically down the side of the 2 x 1 inch tube and projecting up around 2 inches above the plate in your pic'. The roll over bar can then have a 90 degree plate welded to the bottom of the bar tube sufficient to bolt down to the chassis plate and horizontally through the plate welded to the side . Sit in the car and measure from the ledge where the ' bar ' bolts onto , up to 4 inches above your head. With your height , you'll want a nice low to the floor seat to allow vision through the screen and to keep the top of the roll over bar to a minimum height . The standard factory ' bar ' years ago wouldn't have saved your head/neck in an overturned car accident. Mine is 23 inches from ledge to bar top.
Bolting wise , I can't see how they'll see the captive nuts if the car's finished / carpeted etc but crush tubes are a must and also can't be seen for welded or NOT . Definitely weld the roll over bar threaded tubes or they'll hold nothing --- they aren't crush tubes

I'll have a measure of a roll over bar I 've got spare with forward braces then let you know the distance --- yellow

stylussprinter wrote:
Just opposite the mounting plate in your pic' ---- you need a plate around 3 inches wide and 4 inches high welded vertically down the side of the 2 x 1 inch tube and projecting up around 2 inches above the plate in your pic'. The roll over bar can then have a 90 degree plate welded to the bottom of the bar tube sufficient to bolt down to the chassis plate and horizontally through the plate welded to the side .

You got me completely lost in the above part. HUH?

Got a picture or drawing to explain?

Werner , unfortunately my car in that area can't be seen . I'll try again. Where the 2 inch x 1 inch chassis side tubes slant up towards your shoulder/if sitting in the car --- then level off to form the boot area ----- at the point the tubes change angle THAT is where a plate should be welded (it will be opposite the plate with red markings in your pic' )

When the roll over bar is made it will have a plate welded to the bottom of its round tubes If another plate is welded to that outer edge pointing skywards it will be 90 degrees ---- THEN fit tight up to the plate welded onto the chassis 2 inch tubes They are then bolted together PLUS the bar is also bolted down through the plate in your pic' YES

When I've found the spare ' bar ' I'll photograph it for you.

Think i get it now, but what's the point of it? The roll bar has a brace so i don't see a point for extra bracing. Is it SVA necessary? If not i rather not start welding, my welding aint that good you know.

Werner Van Loock wrote:Think i get it now, but what's the point of it? The roll bar has a brace so i don't see a point for extra bracing. Is it SVA necessary? If not i rather not start welding, my welding aint that good you know.

It's much stronger that way . Sorry I can't do it for you but my leads wont stretch to Belgium. P.Powells bar wasn't that wide but Tim widened it so made alterations to it's attachment method. The bar tube originally was quite a distance from the sides of the chassis rails/tubes so apart from looking good did now't to save your neck and was also lower than most peoples head just to make sure it went under a standard hood
Tomorrow I'll send you a pic' if the bar is where I think it is

You can see the roll bar mountings that are on our chassis in the pic below. Ours was one of the last few that Tim did, so is the most up to date. Hopefully it might help you out a bit!

Cheers

Matt

As promised Werner These pic's are of a single hoop ' bar ' but the bolting positions measurements are the same regardless of type of ' bar '

Distance between the two outer upright plates measured from the outside edges = 985mm (It's these two plates that will bolt to '' two other plates welded on the outside of the chassis tubes '' therefore matching their shape/fitting flat to them)

Distance between the front edge of the plate on the bottom of the ' bar ' tube TO the furthest edge of the forward diagonal support bracket = 390mm

Thanks for that Matt, seems that Tim did some serious mods to the rollbar mount. Yours is elevated from the chassis, anyone know why? You also have a extension on the side chassis rail, wich i don't have, guess it's for mounting the bracing more foreward.

But also no vertical plate to bolt the roll bar to, so i'm not going to do that one.

Anyone know what advantages the elevated mounting point gives?

Werner Van Loock wrote:Thanks for that Matt, seems that Tim did some serious mods to the rollbar mount. Yours is elevated from the chassis, anyone know why? You also have a extension on the side chassis rail, wich i don't have, guess it's for mounting the bracing more foreward.

But also no vertical plate to bolt the roll bar to, so i'm not going to do that one.

Anyone know what advantages the elevated mounting point gives?

Tim noted that with the chassis mounting plate as was ----- the bar tilted towards the windscreen so changed the angle with this elevated plate.