clubstylus

Mine gets pretty hot, to the extent that I can't put my hand on the wing, is this normal?

Cheers

Alex

I don't own a Stylus at present but would suggest that does sound as though you are getting a bit hot. Possibly running too lean or too much advance.

Keith
Suffolk

Could be a little lean as i've only just put the carbs on, ignition timing should be spot on as I have a weber alpha set up.

se7ensport wrote:Mine gets pretty hot, to the extent that I can't put my hand on the wing, is this normal?

Cheers

Alex

If you heat line the bonnet and have plenty of air getting around the radiator to the engine bay , the manifold and exhaust shouldn't need wrapping. If you do wrap it then it must be completely from manifold to exit pipe. Any gaps and the temperature will be massive at those points. However , mine's not wrapped , simply bonnet insulated and as it's side exit --- not in sill ! --- totally exposed , there's never been a problem even after 30 odd laps of Goodwood , fairly quickly. It's warm to the touch but not so I couldn't keep my hand on it . Pic' attached to show exhaust with no f/glass encasing it , plus it's lined with self adhesive heat stuff. Side of my wing also has slots. Sort this one , we don't want a Stylus fire !

Rob.

My headers are wrapped and so is my exhaust, I'm thinking about alloy sheilding between the pipes and wing.

I've heard about issues with lagging, but can't help but think that the temperature would be even higher within the engine bay and sill.

You've got me worried now....

I'm considering putting mesh in the sill to help with the cooling and ditching the lagging, anyone got a dremmel they want to lend me

What does Tim do with his cars? as they all appear to have the sill intact.

cheers

Alex

se7ensport wrote:My headers are wrapped and so is my exhaust, I'm thinking about alloy sheilding between the pipes and wing.

I've heard about issues with lagging, but can't help but think that the temperature would be even higher within the engine bay and sill.

You've got me worried now....

I'm considering putting mesh in the sill to help with the cooling and ditching the lagging, anyone got a dremmel they want to lend me

What does Tim do with his cars? as they all appear to have the sill intact.

cheers

Alex

Tim has the exhaust in sill but of course the RT has a larger sill volume also he is using a smaller diameter silencer than me. I.E. 5 inch I think but longer than mine too. I really can't understand why yours is so hot , shielding the inside of the f/glass along the route of exhaust plus silencer would be better than wrapping in my opinion. If you don't fancy an exposed '' can '' like mine you could at least cut f/glass from underneath the body/f/glass . Say 4 inch holes from behind the front wheel to the '' can '' exit (about 1 inch apart) this acts like blowing across the top of a bottle with fast air underneath , to draw the heat away. I have them under the front end then the rest is cut away as you've seen.
The holes don't show unless you crawl under the car. Do your manifold pipes rise up towards the bonnet before going into the wing/sill ? Mine clear it by at least 6 inches at the closest. AIR FLOW is the main thing , I have NO problems with heat running 200bhp from the zetec , not in road traffic jams of course but on track. Is there air getting easily through the rad' surround or have you blocked that off and what rad' grill do you have ? i.e. is it wire or something more solid ? (zetec's like to run quite hot say 92 ish -- what does your gauge read ?) Don't think it's connected to correct tuning . Can't think of anything else --- seeing it , might spark something in my head ! sorry for the dreadful pun !

I''ll get the hole cutter out tonight as its bound to help (good tip).
Re: manifold pipes they come out of the head at 90 degrees for about 18 inches then turn down 90 degrees (join the collector which is approx 18 inch section) then turn 90 degrees back to go along the sill. The first bend is approx 3-4 inches from the wing and it is as this point that it gets hot, the sill which is alloy lined stays pretty cool. I'm now going to remove the alloy sheet which lines the sill and add a load of holes as advised so as to draw the heat away.
I have a 2 inch gap along the top of the radiator, I will try and channel the air so it blowes to the manifold side of the engine bay. Grill is just stainless wire, 1x1cm holes and the wire is about 1mm think. engine temp is actually quite low say 70-75 according to the smiths gauges which I believe to be accurate. I'll take a couple of pics under the bonnet tonight so you can see what I've got.

se7ensport wrote:I''ll get the hole cutter out tonight as its bound to help (good tip).
Re: manifold pipes they come out of the head at 90 degrees for about 18 inches then turn down 90 degrees (join the collector which is approx 18 inch section) then turn 90 degrees back to go along the sill. The first bend is approx 3-4 inches from the wing and it is as this point that it gets hot, the sill which is alloy lined stays pretty cool. I'm now going to remove the alloy sheet which lines the sill and add a load of holes as advised so as to draw the heat away.
I have a 2 inch gap along the top of the radiator, I will try and channel the air so it blowes to the manifold side of the engine bay. Grill is just stainless wire, 1x1cm holes and the wire is about 1mm think. engine temp is actually quite low say 70-75 according to the smiths gauges which I believe to be accurate. I'll take a couple of pics under the bonnet tonight so you can see what I've got.

Radiator grill sounds good , no prob's there , don't worry channelling all air from rad' gaps to the manifold , the carb's quite fancy a drop ! Your description of the manifold projecting straight out from the block 18 inches , level , well that sounds to be the difference between yours and mine. Mine comes out just 6 inches before turning down towards the empty sill area . This , I think , is why your '' wing '' area (top of ?) gets too warm , the pipes are too high for the airflow from the cool rad' area to flow around it .
In your case , even though it will let some crap through from the front wheels , you need to open up an area say 4 inches deep by 9 inches wide , dead opposite the pipes level. I assume you've made alloy or what ever guards in that area to keep road crap from the engine bay ? Just put wire like your rad' grill over the hole you make in the guard. Also , if you haven't already done so , line the wing with self adhesive heat barrier , it's lighter than the woven stuff and easier to fix. I'd say you're running a little rich if the normal fast driving temp' is 75 degrees or maybe your thermostat is wrong or naff ?

I'll check on here tonight to see photo's. Rob.

Actually I haven't made wheel arch liners yet, it's on the to-do list, after sorting the exhaust temp, fitting new sump, immobiliser etc (the list seems to keep growing?!)…..

As you guessed it’s the top of the wing that gets hot, I had cut a hole in the wing to help with cooling, see attached pic - infact if you look closely you can see the manifold pipes behind the wheel.

I'm not worried about cold air to the carbs as I've made an airbox and have remote filter in front of the radiator, so ducting the rest can't hurt.

I'll check the plugs colour to see if rich or not- assuming they are not black I'll inspect the thermostat (the list is growing again).

se7ensport wrote:Actually I haven't made wheel arch liners yet, it's on the to-do list, after sorting the exhaust temp, fitting new sump, immobiliser etc (the list seems to keep growing?!)…..

As you guessed it’s the top of the wing that gets hot, I had cut a hole in the wing to help with cooling, see attached pic - infact if you look closely you can see the manifold pipes behind the wheel.

I'm not worried about cold air to the carbs as I've made an airbox and have remote filter in front of the radiator, so ducting the rest can't hurt.

I'll check the plugs colour to see if rich or not- assuming they are not black I'll inspect the thermostat (the list is growing again).

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Really can't twig why it's so hot without guards . Mine is lined though. I'd get that wrap off though -- worries me ! Is the end of the sill adjacent to the rear wheel free of any sort of panel ie can you see through it ?

You can see straight through, it only gets hot in one place at the top of the wing directly above the manifold, worried that by removing all lagging that it'll increase the temperature

se7ensport wrote:You can see straight through, it only gets hot in one place at the top of the wing directly above the manifold, worried that by removing all lagging that it'll increase the temperature

Line bonnet and entire wing , mines fine , no prob's . Wrapping increases temp' inside tubing and prevents airflow having any reducing effect because it can't get to the metal. This subject has been talked about over the years a hell of a lot and all now agree ---------- no wrapping . Check out the SSR site and contact Fury owners and ask how many guys have lost their pride and joy ! CAN'T over stress NO wrapping --- how can any form of cooling do it's job if it can't touch hot metal to move it away ?

Sorry to be such a NANNY but your car's so nice and I'd hate to hear bad news from you.
Rob.

The body work around my exhaust manifold used to get hot, the paint on the top of the wing changed from yellow to orange. I fitted an ally sheild across the top of the manifold and this has stopped the problem.

Kev

Hi

I've lined the bonnet and wing with heat mat from car builders solutions, the wing still gets hot to the touch but i've measured it with an info red thermometer and it only gets to 60 deg C. The manifold (not lagged) goes over 300

I have also cut out the sill and lined the inside

Adrian

Gents- I'll be ditching the lagging next chance I get (probably tomorrow night), already drilled holes tonight and made stainless sheild to fit on top of pipes. Will also be ordering lining material tomorrow from car builder solutions.

Pics attached