clubstylus

hi rob and all
just been out on my first run in stylus after geting the cabs sorted (big flooding problems)now needs to go on rolling road for tunning. the first thing i notes is big grin form ear to ear so stange to drive .think i need help i have mesioned setup befor but here is what i found hapning the back end seams to hold ok but front end bounses like been on a trampolean been had traking done this morning and that made cornering mutch better . very qick off the mark top end not as good as i thute it wuold be (well dident get to top end road to short) but i think i need to get diff sorted to sute engin here is the questin ide like to ask how do i balence out the supension i have all settings at there softes setting i havent had the car whate done yet as tyhe local whaebrige is not in use
sorry for spelling erres
regards ian

Hi Ian

Most of us have changed our springs, as the factory supplied units are soft (180 lbs front & 160 lbs rear IIRC). I have fitted my fronts to the back & run 200 -220 at the front. This may help.
But your biggest proble is having the shocks to soft. Click them up a few notches & then bounce the car to see the difference.

Dont go to mad at 1st just drive around & gradually increase them.
And use sun tan.

Kevin

ianminki wrote:hi rob and all
just been out on my first run in stylus after geting the cabs sorted (big flooding problems)now needs to go on rolling road for tunning. the first thing i notes is big grin form ear to ear so stange to drive .think i need help i have mesioned setup befor but here is what i found hapning the back end seams to hold ok but front end bounses like been on a trampolean been had traking done this morning and that made cornering mutch better . very qick off the mark top end not as good as i thute it wuold be (well dident get to top end road to short) but i think i need to get diff sorted to sute engin here is the questin ide like to ask how do i balence out the supension i have all settings at there softes setting i havent had the car whate done yet as tyhe local whaebrige is not in use
sorry for spelling erres
regards ian

Ian , first thing to do is very carefully turn shocks anti clockwise to ' 0 ' clicks . Now go clockwise , counting the clicks as you go to find what the total number of clicks there are . Next , set front clicks at 1/4 of the total ie. if total is 24 set 6 clicks ok.
Find the total for the rear shocks then set at 1/2 of the total ie. if 24 then set 12 clicks .

Next , set ' rake ' at 25mm's/without driver seated ie. ---- 25mm's higher chassis height at the rear than the front. Measure under the seatpan where the ally rivets to the steel seatpan for the REAR height --- then under the lower front 50x25mm chassis tube at the front for FRONT chassis height.[ it doesn't matter whether you lower the front or higher the rear to achieve the 25mm as long as there is still piston travel in the shock]
Tyre pressures at 16 to 18psi all round , depending whether ordinary road tyres(18PSI) or YOKO AO48 or Toyo R888 AT 16PSI --- WITH YOUR BEC ENGINED STYLUS.

I presume your front springs are 180lbs so use them at the rear then buy some 225lbs springs for the front.
If you keep to those shock settings you'll get a balanced handling car. The bouncing is either no clicks at all OR maximum clicks --- both will induce bouncing , one due to the spring doing all the work , the second because it's totally solid so the tyres are doing all the work

hi rob and all
thanks for that info.been in the garage all morning (raining here )forgot to say that the suspension are pax with 180e at front and 220s at rear i have alterd the springs to spec that u gave me but i think the damper adjust screws are not working as i tried to count clicks clockwise, all 4 was never ending so wondering if it best to replace the shocks for new ones as i dont really know the age of what i have. they all look ok no oil seeping out at all. for new ones do i just take them off and measure the lenght of shock with spring on or do i need to take them off and what is the best type to use
thanks regards ian

ianminki wrote:hi rob and all
thanks for that info.been in the garage all morning (raining here )forgot to say that the suspension are pax with 180e at front and 220s at rear i have alterd the springs to spec that u gave me but i think the damper adjust screws are not working as i tried to count clicks clockwise, all 4 was never ending so wondering if it best to replace the shocks for new ones as i dont really know the age of what i have. they all look ok no oil seeping out at all. for new ones do i just take them off and measure the lenght of shock with spring on or do i need to take them off and what is the best type to use
thanks regards ian

Ian , you've got your springs the wrong way round , they should be 220 lbs front and the 180 lbs at the rear . Regarding the shock click movement --- click them around VERY gently because many just don't make a clicking sound or even much of a click into place. It's possible to turn them right past their stop position , especially the original SPAX or AVO 's . AVO are normally 24 clicks and SPAX 14 clicks . Don't know about GAZ clicks If you do buy new one's , go for PROTECH .
If you're starting from scratch and don't want to cut any of the wheel arches to enable lowering the car , then I'd buy 11 inch open length shocks with a 7 inch 225lbs springs for the front . Then buy 15 inch open length shocks with a 9 inch 200 lbs springs for the rear . (you are quite light weight and your car is motorbike engined)
Ideally the rear links being the dipped ones suit adjustment best on those shocks .

hello rob and all
well been back in the garage and playing with the shocks .took them off the car removed all springs from shocks and here is what i found shocks are all 13inch open and 9inch closed only two springs maked 180e other two no marking at all. so now thinking all same weight as all same colour. when i looked at them before i presumed other two were 225s so not sure now. swoped them round anyway as they all i have at mo. as i said in last post i dont know what my car weight is yet but a bike engine must be somewhat lighter than car plus gearbox steup .would it be best to replace shocks or just get springs to match the shocks and setup . i know u told me rob which shocks to go for but do i keep that size for front and then get taller one for back
regards ian

I have 12 inch shocks on the back as I have the original rear arms that you have rather than the concave ones designed to use 15 inch shock and 11 inch on the front, for a road going stylus this gives a sensible ride height of ~160 rear and ~140 front.

To calculate shock length I put the chassis on axle stands and took off the suspension, with the wheels on I raised them to the desired ride height then measured the eye to eye length of the shock, I then raised the wheel as far in to the wheel arch I wanted it to travel: this figure is the closed length of the shock. The differences between the two figures is the compression travel which you should have half again to give drop (compression to drop ratio is 2:1) i.e. I needed 8inch as the closed length, at normal ride height this gave 10inch eye to eye so that's 2inches of compression travel plus 1inch of drop, therefore I selected an 11 inch shock with a closed length of 7inch with a 1inch bump stop..

I then added 10mm of bump stop spacers to make sure it couldn't compress too much and damage the body.


Alex

hi alex
thanks for that info.got the shocks back on the car and been out again, got the drive much better now still need to play with them so just a case of finding right setup i think . the more i go out in it the more problems i am finding which werent apparent whilst not on the road.i got the fuel sorted now its the bad humming from axle and a lot of free play that goes with it so now looking at what i need to replace in the axle or whether i need to have it rebuilt.

thanks regards ian