clubstylus

Hello all.

I'm looking to buy some shiny bits for the Stylus, but as mine seems to have been bodged a few times in it's life I'd like to put it back to more like 'standard', but with nicer parts.

First off, wheels. I'd like to go for 13's, but I'm not 100% on the offset, and I'm finding it quite difficult to work out what a standard MK2 Escort wheel was. From reading on here I think they may be 6J and ET-18. Any ideas? Tyres would likely be 185/60/r13, r888 or similar. I'm currently on some Ford RS 5 spokes of some description, I'm not sure of the original application.

Also, damper open/closed lengths for straight rear arm chassis. I know I could measure this myself, but my car isn't in the front room with me, so I thought I'd ask whilst I'm on here!

The car is to be very much road biased- there may be the occasional track, but it's a weekend country road toy rather than track weapon. I just thought I'd mention it before Rob tells me to slam it to the deck with dropped arms, monster track and 15" slicks!

Any help would be much appreciated

Craig

I can't offer any advice on standard sizes, but what matters is what's right for the Stylus. As a point of reference mine are 15x7 ET35 with 195/50 tyres and seem to be about right as far as offsets go on my RT. I know the rear track is wider, but I guess relative to the arch it ought to be the same as I have the standard RT spacers.

Gratuitous photo:

It depends what model you have -- classic or RT

Sorry Rob, it's a classic. I think the chassis is a very early one as well, '92 or '94 I think, it uses escort TCA with a fabricated compression strut rather than a bespoke wishbone. Joseph- it must have been a bit lively in that weather! (and chilly)

Surprisingly decent traction actually! Off the driveway and up the slight hill to the end of the road without any dramas... the roads had been cleared from then on. We were wearing many, many layers but the 100 miles motorway journey home that day was what you could call "fresh".

Anyway, back on topic - I'm not sure if the RT differs at the front (I know it's wider at the rear) but I can take some clearance measurements if it helps.

Craig-Chap wrote:Sorry Rob, it's a classic. I think the chassis is a very early one as well, '92 or '94 I think, it uses escort TCA with a fabricated compression strut rather than a bespoke wishbone. Joseph- it must have been a bit lively in that weather! (and chilly)

OK -- if it's a 92/94 then SSC never made it , it will be a Jeremy Phillips SYLVSAUTOKITS car. He also built Stylus's with purpose made lower wishbones but definitely not TCA 's . Sounds either like a development Stylus (as he did by originally putting a Stylus body onto a FURY chassis) or a Striker with a Stylus body, as the first strikers had TCA's.

Anyway to answer your question --- Stylus's went out from the factory from 1996 to 2003/4 with 14 inch x 6 inch wheels but can't tell you the off-set. Brian Bevis on this forum bought my original wheels/tyres so he'll know the factory off-set . I went to a 15x7 wheel / 195 x 50 tyre , using a ET15 off-set and that was right on the very edge of tyres protruding out of the arches --- hence my body mod's so's could use 205 x 50 tyres .

The wheels that were on my classic when I bought it were 14" 6J ET-18

I now run 13" 6J ET-16 with Toyo R888s on.
These: http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-276 ... -ET16.html

My bitsa chassis strikes again! Do you make adjustable lower wishbones in your list of Stylus parts Rob? Obviously I'll have to measure up first as the existing bracketry may not be correct. I was planning on buying adjustable TCAs and compression struts to give me castor and camber adjustment, these parts are availble for MK2 rally cars. However if you do some that doesn't involve welding new brackets to the chassis that would be my preference.

Google-ing seems to point to MK2 Escort having a ET-19 offset as standard on 6J rims. I will try to confirm this, but I'm not sure how yet!

How do you find the r888's CMA? Do you use yours as a road car or track mostly?

Any ideas on open/closed damper lengths?

Craig-Chap wrote:My bitsa chassis strikes again! Do you make adjustable lower wishbones in your list of Stylus parts Rob? Obviously I'll have to measure up first as the existing bracketry may not be correct. I was planning on buying adjustable TCAs and compression struts to give me castor and camber adjustment, these parts are availble for MK2 rally cars. However if you do some that doesn't involve welding new brackets to the chassis that would be my preference.

Google-ing seems to point to MK2 Escort having a ET-19 offset as standard on 6J rims. I will try to confirm this, but I'm not sure how yet!

How do you find the r888's CMA? Do you use yours as a road car or track mostly?

Any ideas on open/closed damper lengths?

Original spec wheels ET were not related to Escort but simply measured up so that wheels/tyres would move up into the arches without fouling the ' turned in edge ' . Tyres were 185 x 60 . Shocks were 12 - 85 front and 13 - 90 rear as standard . Springs were rediculously soft at 180 front 130 rear and 8 inch front 9 inch rear. I wouldn't advise those spring rates unless you weigh just 50 kgs Also the above spec's mean't the car was 160mm's off the ground.
Rear trailing arms being ' dipped ' were made to allow a shock with more travel to be fitted , especially on lighter weight springs ---- so they wouldn't bottom out/run out of piston travel. NOT just to lower the car.
Regarding lower front wishbones made adjustable --- YES can do without measuring for standard Stylus but on a standard Escort upright , you'd need an adapter pin , to take the outer rodend that I use. Matt Downes has the spec ' drawing and can organise if you contact him pm on here ok.(I didn't get one made as most that go adjustable also use an ally upright)
PM me for email/mob contact if intending to go ahead
Regarding R888's on road only --- fine but need lots of respect in wet weather and correct psi . If you rarely track the car then I'd go for AVON CR500 first choice --- YOKOHAMA AO21R second choice , both excellent grippy tyres dry or wet .

Craig-Chap wrote: How do you find the r888's CMA? Do you use yours as a road car or track mostly?

I like the R888s. I mainly do road with the odd track day. On the track they are great as you would expect.

On the road they are good, better than my old T1Rs, great in the dry and in showers. BUT if there is standing water or a heavy downpour that sits on the road be prepared to drop anchor and deploy the rudder, they are f***ing scary, on Sat morning on the way to Stonleigh I was floating between the hard shoulder and lane 2 with no control at 35mph on the M69.

I love the picture in the snow, reminded me of when I took my Phoenix to Norway in November 2002, to visit my son. On the subject of wheel offset be carfull about about not fouling the lower front link, my car had 14x6 J on it no problem on the road . first time on the track it riped the side wall out of the offside tyre due which was hiting the lower link in left turn, near side was fine, and there was 6 or 7 mm of clearance whe the car was stopped,

Some good advice on here- thanks chaps. Still considering my options regarding suspension changes, I'll let you know Rob. I haven't had mine measured up yet, but I guess they aren't ideal as they come from the factory. The reason for the interest in offsets is that I assume the escort upright was designed to work with some particular value, so I would like to match it.

I'll look into the different tyres- thanks for the pointers! That drive sounds 'exciting' CMA...

Mine still do or rather would if going for an m.o.t. check BUT on track the steering never gets that amount of lock put on . I run 15 x 7 wheels with 205 x 50 tyres but of course the front track's a little wider since making my own lower wishbones/rodend - rockers.
Using 14 x 6 and 185 x 60 tyres , nothing ever touched on full lock.

Going back to your wheel size and off-set Craig ----- If you jack the front up , remove both front wheels and centre the steering wheel , you can then hang a nice long enough cord across the bonnet at hub centre positions with weights each end . Measure from cord to hub face but allow for the wheel arch inner fibreglass curve & tyre bulge ----- that's your off-set calculation. IE. wheel hub built in at dead centre = no off-set . ET 15 for instance indicates the wheel hub centre is built in 15mm's from the wheel centre , towards the outside of the wheel SO the wheel will be 15mm's further under the arch. Hope this helps

Just had a quick measure up of my dampers etc. It's running 12.5" open length all round, with approx 160mm ride height front and rear (no driver). I think I'm going to order 12" front and 13" rear dampers to get some easy rake, and it looks like I'm going to have to cut away the top of the rocker arm to get Protechs in. Ordering tomorrow, I'll keep you updated when they are fitted...