clubstylus

Hi does anybody have any unwanted dash parts like
the dash top or front or both or a pattern even.

Well I have not sorted the dash out yet but I have sold the engine to help fund some other parts for the project.
and as a consequence the front has had to come of to make way for the removal of the engine. and also to aide remodelling of the foot well drivers side and widening of the tunnel to accept the getrag box ahead of the v6 install. and fitment of the new pedal box.
to remove the front took me 2 days of measuring to build up the bottle to start cutting and 10 mins later a presto

Oh it gets worse. while doing some measurements and deciding what to cut out I have found the body as been fitted by an
"engineer I think that's what he called himself so far I have my doubts "
40mm to the n/side so I am going to cut the body of today in an attempt to sort and get a straight car.
does anyone know where I can get a new inner tub or can a fisher fury one be adapted to suit

Are you putting the gatreg in a road car? My pheonix has a chassis especially made by JP to take a catreg/Zf box it has resulted in a footwell that is so narrow it may be unusable in a road car there is no were for the left foot so my left leg is always bent when not on the clutch, and a seat that is (I think 1 inch) narrower than normal, OK for me as mine is a pure race car, but if you are planing to use the stylus as more of a GT it may well be very uncomfortable,

alfablack wrote:Oh it gets worse. while doing some measurements and deciding what to cut out I have found the body as been fitted by an
"engineer I think that's what he called himself so far I have my doubts "
40mm to the n/side so I am going to cut the body of today in an attempt to sort and get a straight car.
does anyone know where I can get a new inner tub or can a fisher fury one be adapted to suit

A FISHER doesn't have an inner tub from memory , all panels are rivetted ally and if it did have one the two cars are different widths and door heights . What's wrong with the kit's existing inner tub Even if cracked or cut about it's simple enough the glass up

I will shorten the foot well which still gives me width and the inner upright box I will take to vertical as it is lost space. and what I can't get I will be cutting back and rewelding the getrag bell housing to fit.
the inner tub as got so much missing and as been completely hacked about being chopped to match the body.
so had a trip down to polyform yesterday and parted with £180 and got enough supplies to make me own and to be able to fit the body square. I did laminating as an apprentice a long time ago so it keep me out of mischief for a while.
what are the differences between the rally design. and siltech. uprights besides one looks cast and the other billet
also what top and bottom joints would I require
hopefully my camera battery will come today and I can get some pics

alfablack wrote:I will shorten the foot well which still gives me width and the inner upright box I will take to vertical as it is lost space. and what I can't get I will be cutting back and rewelding the getrag bell housing to fit.
the inner tub as got so much missing and as been completely hacked about being chopped to match the body.
so had a trip down to polyform yesterday and parted with £180 and got enough supplies to make me own and to be able to fit the body square. I did laminating as an apprentice a long time ago so it keep me out of mischief for a while.
what are the differences between the rally design. and siltech. uprights besides one looks cast and the other billet
also what top and bottom joints would I require
hopefully my camera battery will come today and I can get some pics

Siltech are billet plus strengthened where Andy Silman percieved them to be weak . He can supply pins to suit rodend , metro joints as standard SSC Stylus's I think but if not rally design can. Possibly the metro joint only fits the ESCORT geometry , both are made by rally design but Cortina geometry has the higher stub axle for a 20mm drop in chassis height.
If you prefer to go my route using top and bottom rodends then the top rodend could be 1/2 in bore but 5/8ths shank.
OR --- you could use a spherical bearing at the top