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Spring ratings

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 7:34 pm
by Heavity
I have just purchased a Sylva which has been really well made. However, the springs seem very harsh at the front, and the dampers are at their softest settings. It's fine on good roads, but when road surfaces are poor it can get tiring. If I have the springs changed, what is the best spec for relative comfort without too much roll? (I believe current ones are 225 units at front).

Re: Spring ratings

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:31 pm
by CMA
First question is surely: Is the damping working correctly? Might be seized so no matter which setting it is on it might be damping too much. Pop them off and see if you can move them by hand up the range

225 is about right for a Stylus. Don't forget these are sports cars not off road vehicles so they do not like horrible pot holed roads.

Re: Spring ratings

Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:31 pm
by kevp
Hi

225 on the road is probably to hard. I think also the leverage on the springs is different to a Stylus.
I have always read that the Sylva run quite light poundage.

But Rob of course will know.

Re: Spring ratings

Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:58 am
by stylussprinter
Heavity wrote:I have just purchased a Sylva which has been really well made. However, the springs seem very harsh at the front, and the dampers are at their softest settings. It's fine on good roads, but when road surfaces are poor it can get tiring. If I have the springs changed, what is the best spec for relative comfort without too much roll? (I believe current ones are 225 units at front).
First of all --- what SYLVA have you bought :?: If it's harsh on poor surfaces it doesn't necessarily mean the springs are too higher poundage . Much more importance is shock settings , shock condition and ' top ' of all problems ride height shock seat adjustment ie. if there is little or even no piston travel apart from the visible bump stop , it will be very harsh because there is in fact no suspension momentarily as you go over rough surfaces.

So --- first thing to do is remove the shocks and remove the springs then lean all your body weight on the top against a block of wood ----- then pull the shock open having fixed one end in something . IS THERE GOOD RESISTANCE BOTH WAYS :?: If there is then shocks are functioning ok. Next can you feel each click as you adjust right through the range , if ok that's all fine . Most shocks are similar in the number of clicks to a complete circumference turn ---- normally 8 .

The next thing to say is that the lowest setting of any shock will result in a very '' bouncy '' car which could allow the piston travel to run out when driving over rough or pot holey roads.
High spring rates are seldom the cause of harsh riding cars . Front rate of 225 is absolutely fine for the road and if travel is sufficient then rears are fine at 180 but no lower or when travelling two up it'll run out of travel at times ----- resulting in bent trailing links :shock:

CHECK THAT TRAVEL looking between the bumpstop and shock top surface while the car is sitting on the road/garage floor. You'll get away with 1 inch up front but need 2 inches rear with the softer springs plus possibly two people/luggage.
I run much stiffer springs than advised above and it's not a harsh ride . Mine are 285 front 250 rear --- front piston travel 10mm's but with soft easily compressed bumpstops --- rear piston travel 40mm's with rubber bumpstops . Tyre pressures 16 to 17 psi all round depending on the day . Shock settings front 1/4 of total clicks --- rear 1/2 of total clicks . Rake of 23mm's the rear being highest.(rake setting depends on your own body weight which deflects the travel allowed)
I also have a front ARB of my own design.