clubstylus

im sure that this has been covered before, but I cant find anything specific in the topics!

What is the best suggested height for road use? Im aware of the 25mm wedge from back to front.

I quite like the look of the car being relatively low, however for mainly road use this is not going to be the best!

Also....I have AVO shocks, can I mount these upside down? So that the adjusters are at the top? At present it is very difficult to adjust the ride height as you cant get a good turn with the C spanner!

Thanks

Matt

I couldn't really comment on ride height because all cars are fitted with different wheel/tyre diameter/profiles , so arch clearance is an individual assessment , driver weight too. On top of that , the shock piston travel once lowered to your desired height/clearance must be checked. That in itself has no rules either because my own spring lbs and most other cars are different , so depression under braking and cornering load will be different , giving varying wheelarch clearance and varying piston travel(piston rod showing at max load)
I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this Any car I've set up has had to be done with that info known at the start plus the obvious visual assessment.
EG. mine doesn't go on the road and runs 285lbs 7inch springs up front on 11 inch shocks . The arches are cut out 40mm's and extended out 40mm's , to account for the curve not covering the tyre . The rear runs 250lbs 8 inch springs on 14 inch shocks . The links pivots on the axle are 50mm's lower than standard . I weigh 80kgs . FRONT height ground to chassis member is 75mm's REAR height ground to under forward seatpan 25mm tube is 98mm's
With these spec's the front shock piston visible , me not seated is 13mm's . Rear is 50mm's . Sump to ground is just over 45mm's .
Lower rate lbs springs and or longer will change all the above , especially visible piston travel left . It's -- theorise/fit,adjust/check piston travel(don't forget softer spring rates will mean greater wheelarch clearance needed plus greater than mine piston travel visible) I didn't get mine perfect first time out 17 years ago Hence my many years development but the above gives you a route plus the reasoning. Have fun

I have finally found the original post from you guiding us to what springs etc to get:


If you weigh 11 st and want to track it too , I'd use 1.9 inch shocks / springs (alloy d.adjustable if you can afford them ) 11 inch open at the front with 7 inch 225 lbs springs plus antirollbar(without bar --- use 250 plus) Use 1/4 to 1/3 rd of your shock clicks up front.
At the rear use 15 inch 1.9 inch shocks with 1.9 / 10 inch 200 lbs springs . Use 1/2 to 2/3 rds of your shock clicks at the rear. Set the ride height so you can live with it on the road probably around 120 to 130mm under front lower chassis rail . Then set rear ride height (just under seat pan where steel joins the alloy footwell) at 20 mm higher than the front.
This is a base setting to start you off (for road AND track ) With this set up you'll need around 1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber and TOE only just in OR straight ahead BUT NO TOE OUT . Iv'e run toe out in some circumstances but it's not wise Tyre pressures with good semi sticky tyres not more than 18 psi on road , a touch lower on track depending on make and tread. All these figures are for your weight and intended car use NOT everybody's Stylus --- just in case others read this and duplicate it
The 20 mm wedge and other settings should give you an oversteering car under provocation . As you go quicker , you'll maybe lessen this wedge by 5 mm or so untill it understeers more than your driving style finds acceptable.
If you end up buying double adjustables , just PM me and I'll explain my own theory on settings o.k

This is what we ended up with spec wise. Will set the front to that height and see where it ends up.

In terms of having the shocks upside down, is this wise or will it cause issues?

Thanks
Matt

No issues but no gain due to them being inboard as opposed to outboard like most other kits/unsprung weight . Just make sure when you set the clicks desired that you remember they're upside down BUT still turn clockwise to increase , anticlockwise to decrease back to 1st click

Ok, thanks Rob.

The C spanner fouls the crank pulley on one side and the chassis on the other! If I have them upside down then I have more access at the top and will make it far easier!

Pete&Matt wrote:Ok, thanks Rob.

The C spanner fouls the crank pulley on one side and the chassis on the other! If I have them upside down then I have more access at the top and will make it far easier!

Or do what I did and cut the C spanner handle in half it's hard to wind the springs up but not too bad going down,

Just for some info I'm running with 125mm chassis clearance on the front using 11" dampers , the rear are 15" dampers 250lb springs on the front and 225lb on the rear, I'm starting to run into clearance on the rear but a change to 13" wheels from 14" should sort that out. The picture below is how the car looked when I set the front height, the rear has been lowered since the picture was taken
Shooter

Mine is probably around the same height. Will check it all again tonight and let you know!

Thanks for the help!