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Boiled feet! suggestions and solutions needed

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 3:44 pm
by se7ensport
my footwell seems to get really hot, particularly at the top, I've fitted heat insulation sheet to the inside and outside of the sides and to the outside of the top, this has reduced it, but the top is still really hot. The top of the pedal box is alloy unlike the rest which is steel sided, I've now added a layer of fibreglass sheet to it and another layer of heat insulation sheet and yet it still gets hotter than the sides :(

I'm thinking of changing to a different material, carbon fibre, steel or stainless, any other suggestions appreciated. On a similar note the underside of my alloy dash seems to get rather warm as well...

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 4:08 pm
by Nissanman
Have you tried getting more of the hot air out of the engine bay via vents?

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 4:40 pm
by se7ensport
yup:
Image

The more I think about it, the more convinced i am that the issue is with the alloy as it conducts heat really well.

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:17 pm
by B@man
Hi,

The transmission Tunnel in my car gets really hot, this is a double skin of ally so you may be on to something.
(OK when it's cold but cooks you elbow in the summer)

Have you tried that Foil / Glassfibre / Foil sandwitch stuff as it really reduced the temperature of my bodyshell where it is close to the exhaust !

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:04 am
by Cerberus
[quote="se7ensport"]yup:
Image

The more I think about it, the more convinced i am that the issue is with the alloy as it conducts heat really well.[/quot

In sill ?

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:37 am
by stylussprinter
Alex , I've only just noticed that your exhaust is ' in sill ' . Is there an easy flow of air possible from engine bay through the sill and exit :?: :?: What you need to do is open up a large area of fibre glass under the body at the front(just behind the front wheel arch) It's very wide there and can easily take 4 or even 6 large holes which wont be seen from the side view , if it doesn't appeal to you to have vents showing.(I used a 96 mm diam hole saw) Then the sill is very narrow on a classic so the same along the length right to the exit would be good even if decreasing hole size towards the exit. Having cut them , just hand paint the hole edges with a little artist's brush , that'll hide any bare f/glass attracting view.
I'm guessing that you've wrapped the exhaust/silencer/tail pipe :?: Did you realise that it gets even hotter anywhere not wrapped , even a small gap . As long as it's not touching the f/glass , you're better off having high airflow and no wrapping :roll: So many cars have ended up on fire through sill exhaust with no airflow :roll:

Rob(be careful :!: Full side vent would be ideal :wink: )

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:57 pm
by se7ensport
B@man wrote:Hi,

The transmission Tunnel in my car gets really hot, this is a double skin of ally so you may be on to something.
(OK when it's cold but cooks you elbow in the summer)

Have you tried that Foil / Glassfibre / Foil sandwitch stuff as it really reduced the temperature of my bodyshell where it is close to the exhaust !
Thats the heat insulator sheet that I've already used, it's worked elsewhere, it's just the top that of the footwell that really struggles.


Rob

Following your previous advice i drilled the sill the full length, I'm going to now put a few more holes at the front, when I spoke to Tim a while back and he adviced leaving the silencer wrapped as it is a very close fit in the classic sill. I take your point about a small gap being dangerous and will ditch the rest of the wrap next week (exhaust has to come off to weld in lambda boss).

I think my many problem is that the header is about 3-4 inches from the top edge of the foot well, I'm now thinking about fitting a stainless heat shield to number 4 header, about 4inch tall by 20inch to help deflect the airflow towards the wing vent.

Plan of action: replace alloy part of pedal box with steel, drill more holes(!), de-lag exhaust (i'll then glue the old lagging on to the outside of the pedal box), make deflector.

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:39 am
by Nissanman
And maybe try exhaust wrapping the manifold to the point wehere it meets the silencer - it will keep the heat in till it gets to the sill.

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:03 am
by se7ensport
Nissanman wrote:And maybe try exhaust wrapping the manifold to the point wehere it meets the silencer - it will keep the heat in till it gets to the sill.

I originally had this, but as adviced by Rob the risk to the sill catching fire is really quite high http://www.clubstylus.be/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=102

A number of fury's have turned to ash becaue of lagging!

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:59 am
by Nissanman
Even with a dirty great long hole cut in the sill?

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:22 pm
by se7ensport
I have holes cut out the full length on the underside of mine and I'm not prepared to chance it.

If you take Robs option of cutting the sill right out then I can't see that it would matter, however, thats more about functionality over appearance (no offence Rob), I like the look with the sill in tacked.

I may go for a mesh side sill at some point, but I'll need to get a stainless silencer for it to look acceptable.

Had you planned to lag your exhaust? with a turbo you under bonnet temp will be pretty high.

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:29 pm
by Nissanman
I'm lagging the exhaust manifold and elbow right up to the silencer (all stainless right through) my sill has a big hole the whole way down - I'll heat shield the back and then stainless mesh the hole, you can just about see it here... should be ok.. hopefully ;)

I also have big bonnet vents in the rear of the bonnet bulge - so lots of hot air will be drawn up over the engine and out and up the windscreen...
Image

A thought ?

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:40 pm
by stylussprinter
Alex , I was wondering if your exhaust mount is steel like a lot of guys on the sylva chat list/fury's complaining about rubber dollies failing(they fail due to their ignorance on rubber dollies being designed to be compressed NOT suspended) If it's mounted solidly or even via a coil spring , it will transfer heat to the chassis.
The other thing is --- having a side long/wide vent but mesh covered means the silencer isn't seen so unless you want a stainless one it isn't needed. Just look at my green car's vent .

Rob :?: :roll:

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:07 am
by se7ensport
Mines under compression, via an "L" bracket, the sill itself stays relatively cool, the only heat issue I've have is by my toes!

I've checked out pics of your green one, it does look neat, trouble is I'd want to use the same mesh that I've already used at the front of the car and it's very see through as they are 10mm holes. At the moment I don't think it's something I need to do, it's one of those upgrades for complete peace of mind!