clubstylus

One thinks one may have over revved and stretched ones con rod bolts damn and blast well i did say i wouldn't be shy with it should have kept the Redtop shouldn't i.


Phil

Ouch, sorry to hear that.
Excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge (any opportunity to learn though) what are the symptoms and what will you need to do to repair it?

oh dear! how quickly did you realise you'd done it? you may just get away with it! at least it didn't snap and send bits around your engine to really ruin your day!

hope you manage to get it sorted with minimal fuss mate!

drhunter wrote:Ouch, sorry to hear that.
Excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge (any opportunity to learn though) what are the symptoms and what will you need to do to repair it?

Ah well it happens symptoms can be flckering oil light (which is what i have) noisey top end progressing to bottom end there are other symptoms as well. as i have no noise from top or bottom i will pull the sump off at the weekend just to check the main bearings and shells, i might get away with it if the shells arn't scored by fitting some ARP bolts we will see.
I mentioned flikering oil light this can also be caused by a blocked oil strainer or an iffy oil pump all of which may be the cause so i'm not really bothered as yet, as for remedy you can get the crank re-ground and fit new bearings/shells(expensive and time consuming)but if it is bad i will just buy a bottom end or a complete engine (£100) and swap head over etc it will only take half a day and off we go, the annoying thing is i had the engine out monday night for a clutch problem, i just love the flip front, i drove home from work put the car in the garage, made a cup of tea while it cooled down for half an hour at 17:20 i started to take the front off the car and at 18:15 the engine was out and it was back in whilst it was still warm


Phil

Were they standard or ARP's no rev' cut

alecmartin19 wrote:oh dear! how quickly did you realise you'd done it? you may just get away with it! at least it didn't snap and send bits around your engine to really ruin your day!

hope you manage to get it sorted with minimal fuss mate!

Thanks Alec, i noticed it straight away so i may be lucky will let everyone know this weekend.
Typical though the person who wants to buy the engine keeps asking about it, worst case i will buy a bottom end and re-build it for them as i've told them they can have it at the end of september then i will have winter to fit the new engine.


Phil

stylussprinter wrote:Were they standard or ARP's no rev' cut

I've been saving up for my ARP bolts, so they were standard the trouble with this engine is that first it's an Ecotec which are known for there cheese like quality and the second according to the RR sheet with the engine max horse power comes in right at the red line which is 6500 and yes i did find the limiter at 7K but only once but perhaps that was enough

Phil

bloody hell Phil!

when did you do it? surely not Sunday keeping up with an old ford 8 valve?

Have you seen them yet or was it just today you did it If you knocked off smartish maybe you can shell and ARP it ------- sorted Let's hope Phil

stylussprinter wrote:Have you seen them yet or was it just today you did it If you knocked off smartish maybe you can shell and ARP it ------- sorted Let's hope Phil

It was on tick over as i got home Monday from playing with very fast Mini (old style) bizarre looking thing, anyway i shut off instantly, now i am embarressed i have just drained the oil to find only 2.5 litres in there(basically 2 litres short).

What i don't understand is the block and sump are the same as the Manta and i swapped the dipstick and the dipstick tube over when i put the new lump in so it should read correctly on the dipstick am i correct , if anything it was slightly overfilled which i know can cause problems with the crank running in the oil and causing air bubbles, but in this case not a problem just showing a false reading (very optomistic) on the dipstick bugger
So the only thing to do is fill with correct amount of oil and re-mark dip-stick and hope all is good if not back to plan A

Phil

I would laugh, but it's the sort of thing i'd do.

Glad to hear that you've found the source of the problem - hope it hasn't caused too much damage!

Bad news Phill but hopefully it may live with some more oil in it and a set of bolts. Fingers crossed.

George

She's OK, filled with correct amount of oil disregarding dipstick, and oil level should be 30mm over the dipstick full mark so i don't know whats happened to throw it that far out will order ARP bolts end of week then i'll be a lot happier


Phil

Sorry to hear of the troubles !
When you take the sump off to put in the ARP bolts I would check the dipstick to see where it is reaching down to in relation to the crank just in case you are over filling it and there are some other differences in the block that are not apparent.

Schrodinger wrote:Sorry to hear of the troubles !
When you take the sump off to put in the ARP bolts I would check the dipstick to see where it is reaching down to in relation to the crank just in case you are over filling it and there are some other differences in the block that are not apparent.

I am sure the blocks are the same and have been for years, just different heads and bore sizes, went out again earler today after adjusting the camber (guest-emated) as described by Tim will do it properly when i get my hands on a gauge, WOW what a difference it's nice to tinker and notice the difference, i now have a little bit of understeer when taking the piss next thing is to sort out toe again adjusted earlier (guest-emated) but all seems good engine wise, will have a nose about when ARP bolts are fitted and report back cause something is not right.

Phil