clubstylus

Went to the show yesterday to have a good look round the engineering section and made a few good contacts. Some of them closer to me than I realised .If I was building again now , I'd definitely get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated inside and out. It offers cooling and efficiency at a price that surprised me . It's only expensive when dirty from use but brand new it's quite cheap. Carbon propshafts around 20 inches for an Escort M2 axle and T9 box are about 500 quid. Might seem a huge sum but not when you consider the lightness and rotating weight saved There's so much stuff available now that 5 years ago would have been double or treble the price Interesting stuff if you were building a ' competition only ' car
An ex-Caterham guy has designed a tube chassis/fibre glass bodied car called the ZORF or similar spelling . It looked absolutely awesome and was fitted with a Duratec 2lt . Only intended selling as a fully built car though at £26,000 . Weighed 693kgs but with fully fitted interior etc. When the body was fitted it was adjustable via 8 bolts to shift it left/right etc -- very clever

how much is the ceramic coating for the exhaust manifolds?

Pete&Matt wrote:how much is the ceramic coating for the exhaust manifolds?

Ball park figure of £100 but don't remember exact figures cos we were looking at individual manifolds actually on their stand. Some were done inside and out and for these there was a big drop in under bonnet temperatures plus a free-er flowing exhaust = more power Heads/pistons - all sorts are possible at very sensible prices Just pump ' ceramic coating engines etc ' into google and it will come up with the company near Oxford ish

will have a look into that then! would be very good to do if running a turbo!

Just checked it out and the company is Zircotec . Best to talk with them to get the info on all that it can be used for. Big in F1 apparently -- on just about anything that gets hot or wears

I've never been convinced by carbon props; the radius of gyration of a standard prop is quite small and the weight of the shaft itself is a relatively small part of the assembly compared to the U.Js’etc.

Matt

Bikenuts wrote:I've never been convinced by carbon props; the radius of gyration of a standard prop is quite small and the weight of the shaft itself is a relatively small part of the assembly compared to the U.Js’etc.

Matt

Absolutely right in pure weight terms. However if you compete then every bit counts and don't forget that the rotational mass will effect response just the same as a flywheel plus the U/J's are alloy on these carbon props. On it's own it wouldn't do much but linked with alloy diff nose/alloy wheels/alloy box/alloy front uprights&hubs/alloy small tank/no washers etc etc etc. I held one in my hand at the show and it surprised me how light it felt.

Rob,
For some reason I thought you had IRS, but take it from the fact you mentioned an alloy diff nose that you've got a live axle, If you haven’t got one already you can save a little bit of weight by fitting the smaller Anglia diff flange. With a live axle a lightweight prop will make a bit more of a difference as is will slightly reduce your unsprung weight too but I just wonder if £500 wouldn’t save you more weight somewhere else??


Matt

Well unless I stripped the whole body right off then refitted a very lightweight version(that's not going to happen )the only bit of heavy gear left is the gearbox (that's not going to get changed either --- made that decision before refitting the engine so just had it rebuilt and strengthened)
Before sorting my zetec , part of a plan was first ELITE SEQUENTIAL @22kgs saving 12kgs plus some seconds over a lap with the quick change and easy cassette cog change THEN 2.3lt DURATEC
Far too much dosh for the intended 260plus bhp and 205lbs.ft. plus Elite box @3000 grand. Then the axle wouldn't have taken the torque . All round it would have been 20,000 less sale of my engine/box ------ too scary a thought , especially if the engine didn't sell

So it's down to very small refinements etc now mate

stylussprinter wrote:

Pete&Matt wrote:how much is the ceramic coating for the exhaust manifolds?

Ball park figure of £100 but don't remember exact figures cos we were looking at individual manifolds actually on their stand. Some were done inside and out and for these there was a big drop in under bonnet temperatures plus a free-er flowing exhaust = more power Heads/pistons - all sorts are possible at very sensible prices Just pump ' ceramic coating engines etc ' into google and it will come up with the company near Oxford ish

Not even close Rob - just spoke to them for a 4 cylinder engine it's between £280-320 depending on the length + VAT and delivery...... so I think I'll stick to wrapping it - shame, cos it did look like a good system.

Jasp

I've said it before but must repeat myself again or I'll feel very guilty if your car went up in smoke

Wrapping is potentially very risky and in a F/G car I definitely wouldn't do it Just one gap in the wrapping will produce multiple x the normal unwrapped heat = FIRE Far better to get air in and around then out ---- loads of air entry/exit ways = no prob's

You have to have seen it happen to realise that you'll get no warning and no time to stop it ONLY enough to get out of the car. Sorry for the gloom

Heard you this time Rob!

I have already made sure there's lots of air coming through and past and out again at the top of the bonnet bulge, so I'll forget the wrapping then. I'll put an ali sheet shield over the turbo, and put some of that reflective fireproof sheeting under the bonnet ..... lets hope that's enough then...

Nissanman wrote:Heard you this time Rob!

I have already made sure there's lots of air coming through and past and out again at the top of the bonnet bulge, so I'll forget the wrapping then. I'll put an ali sheet shield over the turbo, and put some of that reflective fireproof sheeting under the bonnet ..... lets hope that's enough then...

Good man Is your exhaust running underneath or in the sill If in the sill , then open the sill all the way down to the side exit of your silensor pipe . If you don't like the look of exposing it from the side -- at least underneath and shark fin the side ot big holes . Once sprayed it will look great , you wont notice the holes/fins etc Also some air venting through the engine/wheel/sill guards will help.

All done Rob - it's down the side and it's now just one big hole which I'll cover with very open mess stainless.....

Nissanman wrote:All done Rob - it's down the side and it's now just one big hole which I'll cover with very open mess stainless.....

Perfeck