clubstylus

Halfshafts are out as of yesterday however the shaft wasn't broken at the flange end. It was snapped just behind the splines which is what I expected really but feeling the wheel up on the jacks , it felt like the flange end Unfortunately I couldn't tap it through with a rod because having an ATB prevents that as I discovered and fortunately didn't ' tap ' / wallop it too hard
So off the prop and diff nose came ------- ugh Next thing is to get the old bearings and retaining collar off to free the retaining plates which I hope are going to fit between the ' new two piece flange and shaft ' ------- if not I'm in trouble. Until they arrive on Thursday , I've no way of knowing because I've never seen the Quaife two piece. I've got some longer studs I'd like to fit too while the shafts are out but the shanks appear too long I just assumed they'd be the same but with more thread
If the bearings need to be pressed on as the old ones do(and to remove ) I probably wont get to Goodwood this Saturday Another entry fee down the drain

Must drive over to Grandprix supplies at Silverstone too and buy more diff' oil

A few pic's of progress plus rather ' short ' shaft

Can't you pick up some 2nd hand halfshafts nearby just for goodwood? Maybe worth asking around on locostbuilders.

Werner Van Loock wrote:Can't you pick up some 2nd hand halfshafts nearby just for goodwood? Maybe worth asking around on locostbuilders.

Andy Bailey's got some I could have but that means twice the work , twice having bearings drawn off then new ones pressed on . Can't trust all that work to secondhand bearings around Goodwood , it's so fast .
Truth is -- I bloody hate doing anything twice

Diff' is back in now sealed with some copper silicon gasket as it would have taken too long to get the proper paper FORD item delivered Prop shaft bolted up with lock & seal / greased . New REDLINE diff oil ready to go in with ZX1 so just waiting for the Quaife shafts & bearings now . It would be nice if they came early this morning but not holding my breath
All told , the complete repair , oil , gasket seal , Quaife bits plus cash for friendly garage owner with press has come to £500 Add that to last Saturday's travel & entry fee =
On the other hand , I've competed since 2001 with no major costs for repairs untill now so hopefully Mr Quaife will have sorted it for a few years
My friendly garage owner is Dave Stone of D S AUTOMOTIVES , Aylesbury who is a Japanese car tuner , Porsche tuner and has a 4 wheel drive rolling road . His latest upgrade on an EVO is 700bhp for track work and his own crazy plan of 900bhp in his Skyline

Rob,
The shafts are designed to go there to avoid having 2 foot of shaft flailing around at high speed. I've dome the job on Landys a couple times and the broken stub will often pull out with a good magnet on a stick but best to drop the diff to make sure there is no swarf left. The shaft feels loose as it’s only supported by a single row ball bearing once snapped which will allow quite a lot of angular miss alignment.

Matt a.k.a Bikenuts

Hi Matt , yes you're right , just didn't dawn on me. Shafts plus flanges and bearings arrived this morning so have just put the studs in and my ' friend ' has pressed the bearings on plus torqued up the flange retaining nuts. It was huge so no way would any of my tools do the job. I just remembered in time to put the retaining plates on top of the pressed bearings before the flange got put on
These bearings have an ' 0 ' ring let into the outer edge so they will be awkward to put back in . I'm about to go and try

All done and dusted now The ' 0 ' rings made it tricky because you can rip them easy as look at them. I carefully put a bead of bearing seal near the inner edge of the bearing then just smeared a touch of washing up liquid over the ' 0 ' ring . Most of the shaft went clonk , straight in but it took some hefty wallops over a block of wood to ' seat ' the bearing passed the ring
One of the design features I noticed on these Quaife shafts is that there's no ' nip ' or narrowing of the shaft where it joins the splines and the shaft tapers from the splines towards the flange end finishing at around 40mm diameter They say that the shaft itself is of better quality material than the flange . Let's hope they stick standing starts from my new found bhp

Well done on the speedy repair.
Glad to see i was wrong about the machining needed to the hubs!

Now a good result at Goodwood and it was all worth it

Check out my post on ACSMC champ'p re- other entries

Good job I didn't throw away the biscuit tin of Escort M2 nuts,bolts etc that I intended to ------ having fitted longer wheel studs to the shafts , the original chrome nuts are too short in the thread BINGO found 8 open ended , correct angle Escort ones in the tatty old nuts/bolts tin
That's the trouble when you do things cos you have to , rather than planned improvements ------ you always forget some annoying little detail

Had a good day yesterday but there's a clank coming from the rear around bends at 130mph so will have to see what's going on under there

stylussprinter wrote:Had a good day yesterday but there's a clank coming from the rear around bends at 130mph so will have to see what's going on under there

Well now I've been under there and cleaned everything I can see that the prop' has recently touched the 25mm x 25mm upright tube on the drivers side tunnell It has touched before when carrying a hefty passenger -- no names of course What I did after that was smear grease around the prop' so's it would be easy to see if it contacted metal Not till now have I seen a shiny mark all the way around the prop'
You may wonder why it's that close and the answer is ---- to get the car straight i.e. rear perfectly inline with the front , you just have to use an adjustable panhard rod to shift the axle where it needs to go Most of you wont bother but for competition , everything needs to be as correct as is possible to get the car to handle well
In the case of my particular chassis , that meant running the prop' about 3mm off the ' tube ' but having lowered it a little this season again plus more grunt therefore harder cornering ----- 3mm ain't enough so a compromise is 5mm and the chassis will just have to be out of alighnment a touch with the driving force

The more you seek perfection the more you find snags Roll on ABINGDON and we'll find out whether I'm right OR if there's something else making a clonk - clank

Hey Rob, how much did the Quaife half shaft kit cost you?
Thanks
Alex

oh and is it true it moves each wheel out by 10mm?
ta!