clubstylus

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:00 pm**

Very exciting, my new rad arrived today and I've finally got the wideband lamda working, so I've just booked the rolling road for 10 days time to finally get the ECU and boost controller all set up and find out if I've put everything together correctly and wot power it's putting out.

I'll take lots of pics and vids and let you know how I get on

Jasp

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:50 pm**

good luck with the rolling road! what power are you hoping to achieve then? any ideas or is every horse a bonus? what sort of torque figures do you expect to get? i'm looking forward to seeing the videos!

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:57 pm**

I'm more after a smooth power curve than a big top end figure otherwise it'll want to be kicking the back out all the time, though going on other peoples cars with a similar set-up I would expect to see 270-300bhp at the flywheel, as for torque I've no idea but pretty huge I should think!

Will be doing a second session with a CAT in the exhaust for the SVA on the same day, I expect that one to be much less

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:08 pm**

good luck, it will be intersting to see the results. You must be pretty excited. Have you started the car yet? What ECU are you using?

once i get a few more miles on mine i will going for a dyno session.

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:04 am**

Yup - car's been running for about a year now, even driven it up and down the long private road where the bodywork was being done.

ECU is a fully programmable Apexi Power Commander FC, so they can do what they like with it

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:06 pm**

the apexi is very good, i always had them on my rx7s , i had to go with the microtec as i didnt want the challenge of trying to get the stock loom to work with the apexi, the microtec comes with its own loom which was easier to wire in, although i will miss the commander that plugs into the apexi. (displays all the ecu goings on for those who dont know)

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:22 pm**

Just put it off for a few more days as I've just realised how much work I've got to do to get it ready

Radiator fits well but I've got to weld all new bracketry onto the front of the chassis as it's much heavier than the existing one. And while I've got all the front off I'm going to try to fit Rob's anti-roll bar kit.

Have to admit to not really knowing the workings of the FC module, gonna get the RR guys to explain it all, along with the set-up of the boost controller

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:08 pm**

Nissanman wrote:Just put it off for a few more days as I've just realised how much work I've got to do to get it ready Radiator fits well but I've got to weld all new bracketry onto the front of the chassis as it's much heavier than the existing one. And while I've got all the front off I'm going to try to fit Rob's anti-roll bar kit.

When you fit the ARB just check that with the car weight on the ground (ie not jacked up) that the lever arm ends on each end of the BAR , are clear of the triangulation 25mm chassis tubes by 25 to 40 mm , depending how much suspension movement you get ok

Have to admit to not really knowing the workings of the FC module, gonna get the RR guys to explain it all, along with the set-up of the boost controller

Posted: **Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:20 am**

Will do, that's tomorrows job

Posted: **Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:28 pm**

Nissanman wrote:Will do, that's tomorrows job

If you think you need more clearance then take half the extra clearance length from each end of the link rods so's you don't run out of thread for the rodends

That's to say , if another 10mm will do it THEN cut just 5mm from each end of the rods

It's not a problem if you mess up BUT it does mean you'll need to cut more thread into the rods

if you've got the tools

Clearance is mainly on braking so you can stand on the rockers to check it out

In cornering the ARB prevents so much roll that the same clearance isn't needed

clubstylus

Rolling Road is Booked :)

Rolling Road is Booked :)

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