clubstylus

I will have to keep this short, i have to be up at 3am to go away for a few days. I have been wondering what to do with the headlights, i'm not a fan of the stock ones also i need more clearance behind it for slightly bigger tyres. I didnt want to spend £100 on the same ones so i had a little mock up tonight. I'm still not sure of how i'm going to finish it off but the idea is to use the double angel eye units that i had in the shed from a Mazda RX7. Cut all the meat offf the frame so it fits in the pod, block up any gaps (somehow) and put the stock lense back so it still has a bit of a stock look. (Unless of course the tinted lenses are forthcoming )

I will silicone the glass lense into the original trim as it wont stay put without the rest of the headlight unit. This gives me another 3 inches clearance from the front wheel.

He are a few pics, let me know what you think. This is just mocked up at the moment. I still need someway of blocking the holes. I like the bottom half but i'm not too sure about the tope bit so that may change. I think i can hide any dodgy bits by tinting the inside of the stock lense.

Oh BTW, I need a pair of stock lenses if anyone has a set or knows where to get them. I dont need the rims, just the glass.

Excuse the photos, they were taken with my phone in a dingy garage

The first look I took at it , I didn't like it much but by the time I'd schrolled down to the last photo to see they're more or less in the middle ------------------- I quite like it , especially if it all gets blacked out behind and around the units . Have you checked what back space there is When the steering turns --- the wheel is all of a sudden a larger diameter so it can touch , also braking lessens that space
If you do it , there's no disadvantage really if polycarbonate covers are available later because it'll be simple to cut out the glass , if you use SIKAFLEX , then f/glass in the 3 alloy screw holding legs to fit poly covers
PLUS of course you haven't got SVA to consider , re - height from the ground etc . Where will the indicator go

OR -------------- there is such a thing as a '' daylight only '' MOT available

i have the pods glassed onto the back of the headlight holes which was done from new i think, the wheels dont touch at the moment, i am planning to cut the bowls back and just cover the back of the light somehow. This will give me the extra space to run the 50 profile instead of the 45 that i have to run at the moment.

i got them in and working today, just need blok the opening spaces up but i will probably do that when i refit the headlights after the spray job.

Just one question, how do i make the dip lights stay on when i put the main beam on?, i am sure there must be away to do it at the relay end of things?

I still need 1 lense which i am having trouble finding. I have fitted one for now.

Easy way is to fit a diode from the full beam across to the dip relay to keep it on .

thanks, but could you put it in laymans terms please? whats diode and where does it go

why would you want to keep the dip on during main beam? This only done when flashing.

Antnicuk wrote:thanks, but could you put it in laymans terms please? whats diode and where does it go

Will do a simple drawing for you and post tonight diodes can be bought at places like Maplins for pennies thy are just like a 1 way valve so you can send the feed one way but will not come back through from the other .

George

Looks good mate.

Not to highjack the thread, but how much clearance do you think you need from the tyre at it's closes point (with nearly full lock on) to the back of the light unit, as mine is VERY close.

Nissanman wrote:Looks good mate.

Not to highjack the thread, but how much clearance do you think you need from the tyre at it's closes point (with nearly full lock on) to the back of the light unit, as mine is VERY close.

Depends on how hard the springs are really At full lock , speed will be walking pace so 5mm will do SVA wise . It's really high speed cornering/braking that you need to be concerned about when you'd more likely have only 1/4 lock on . Get someone to check with a mirror and torch , using 1/4 lock , while you put a lot of weight on the wing or standing inside the engine bay on the rocker cover , jumping around a bit .If all else fails , check for tyre marks once you've driven it around . I found out the hard way then kept cutting the bowl away , finally doing away with it completely

Antnicuk wrote:i got them in and working today, just need blok the opening spaces up but i will probably do that when i refit the headlights after the spray job.

Just one question, how do i make the dip lights stay on when i put the main beam on?, i am sure there must be away to do it at the relay end of things?

I still need 1 lense which i am having trouble finding. I have fitted one for now.

. Tony , how far do these headlights protrude back into the wheel arch space ? The Hella twins that I fitted were 5.5 inches deep on the dipping beam so had to remove them a few years back .

Hi Rob, they are about 3 inches from memory, they are not as substantial as the hella type ones. I run the same size front tyres as you and dont have any clearance troubles although you run the car a lot lower than i do.

Thanks Tony , food for thought if I ever consider putting mine back on the road . Can't remember where you sourced the headlights from though were they ' bike ' lights

They are a carved up set of aftermarket lights from an FD3 RX7 (92-2002), here is a link for a new set but you will find used ones popping up on ebay quite cheaply as they are not very popular and a lot of people fit them and then remove them again.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/92-99-Mazda-RX7-D ... 588b854922

I recently fitted some LED enhanced clear lens 7" units
http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.ph ... 3&catsub=0



I first saw them fitted to a Landrover

A bit of bling you might say - but it was a very straightforward swap!