clubstylus

We have put on the new wheels we have got (195/45x15) and we are finding that they are rubbing on the front of the arch when you turn the wheels. It is only doing it on the passenger side, the drivers side is fine.

Below is a pic of where it is rubbing:
This is how much gap we have on the passenger side:
This is how much gap we have on the drivers side:
Has anyone else had these issues? If so, what have you done to resolve it? We have checked the alignment of the flip/bonnet and have got it as good as possible.

Cheers

Matt

Matt , if you've alighned the body well enough simply mark a nice flowing line back 15mm or so from the edge over a gentle 300mmm length and anywhere else it fouls. Rub it down with sand paper/block . Nobody will ever know because you can't look at both sides of the car at the same time anyway
I '' adjusted '' all the arches when I first built my Stylus , it's just something you have to do if not using the original spec' 14 x 6 wheels and 185 's
As long as your cuts are flowing and join the uncut areas gradually it'll be fine. I took an inch from the lower front , in front of the tyres plus 35mm from the arches over a period of years (lowering plus using 15x7x205 50 profile)

Rob, did you put a return lip back in as rubbing it back is going to remove this?

Also, how the hell do you get the head lamps to NOT touch the wheels!! the tyres are close to the back of the fibreglass pods as it is! I think we may need to raise the suspension a little which should help i guess?

Pete&Matt wrote:Rob, did you put a return lip back in as rubbing it back is going to remove this?

Also, how the hell do you get the head lamps to NOT touch the wheels!! the tyres are close to the back of the fibreglass pods as it is! I think we may need to raise the suspension a little which should help i guess?

Well when I first built the car the front chassis bottom rail was 145mm from the ground and on 14x6 wheels etc . The pods were black marked a bit when turning the steering. Soon after that I cut the back of the pods off and sikaflexed rubber/butyl over the 6 inch hole it left.
Once I started the handling/lowering process the spring rate had to go up to match it i.e. closer to the pods meant higher spring rate to keep the tyres off touching the pods. I lowered the car over 6 years in 4 stages , each stage becoming a stiffer set up ---- eventually getting to where it is now = 90mm off the ground at the bottom front rail. This required 35mm out of the front arches plus flaring out 35mm to cover the tyres. Also a good 25mm from in front of the tyres to the ' D ' sections . Now I have no lights at all(heads anyway)
I would guess that 120mm ish would be the lowest you could go at the front and still retain lights without modifying the rear or the lighting system in total
Over a period of time I've become used to the very stiff set up necessary to get the car lowered to where I wanted it. Also , of course , the shocks are very different from the originals plus the springs have changed 5 times in length and lbs . The current ones are alloy and double adjustable PLUS the jolly old ARB up front

I think it would have been very difficult to drive the car well/quickly if this final stage had been there from day '' one '' I've felt the car as it's been developed through each stage giving me a good understanding of what's happening underneath me/tarmac ------ a learning curve you might say but done by me which helps you to drive and interpret each mod' tried in competition . It really is the only way to develop the chassis --- be engineer and driver too

Don't worry about the lip being cut off , I didn't strengthen the edge but you could fold some glass/resin into a 15mm roll and bond it along the edge if you're concerned .

thanks for the response Rob. I will measure the chassis height tommorow and adjust accordingly and let you know!

Matt

Matt

Most of us have had or seen this problem. It's an issue on Fury's too.

These are a couple of pics of my initial inner arch cuts
Went a bit further for the X-pack look later.

plus one of Rob's that gave me the confidence to cut mine !
(Apologies Rob if it brings back bad memories, not much left of that corner now )

I'm sure you're on the case, but I think you'll have to make sure the wheels clear the bowls,
or limit the streering lock, to keep the SVA man happy.
They might want rubber strip on any grp edge to prevent tyre cuts too.

Cheers

Matt

well it deffinatly seems that the air saw will be coming out sometime this week then!!

Pete&Matt wrote:well it deffinatly seems that the air saw will be coming out sometime this week then!!

Rather you than me in this temperature . This time of year I set the hot air blower on for an hour before venturing into my shed

Happy new year to you both ---- I'm or we're preparing for tonight's dinner party right now so no Stylus fettling for me today Browney points need collecting early rather like mushrooms

Pete&Matt wrote:well it deffinatly seems that the air saw will be coming out sometime this week then!!

If you're going to do this, make sure you still meet the radius requirements for SVA.

Happy new year and best wishes

I've got 205's on the front and had to cut a fair bit of the front edge of the bonnet, then just put plenty of filler along the edge and sanded it back, looks fine.

I've also got a problem of the wheels touching the back of the headlights, I've cut as much of the bowl off as possible and it's still only 1/2 inch or so away. Gonna see how it is once it's being driven (very soon now!!)

Nissanman wrote:I've got 205's on the front and had to cut a fair bit of the front edge of the bonnet, then just put plenty of filler along the edge and sanded it back, looks fine.

I've also got a problem of the wheels touching the back of the headlights, I've cut as much of the bowl off as possible and it's still only 1/2 inch or so away. Gonna see how it is once it's being driven (very soon now!!)

It'll be fine Jasper ---- just don't brake , it only slows you down anyway