clubstylus

Well , the mechanical repairs anyway. It needs a new '' A '' frame plus radiator . All new rodends on the drivers side -- that's 4 x 1/2 inch and a 3/8ths rodend for the steering rack end . Still waiting for the alloy upright to be returned from Siltech Racing where it's been measured for straightness and sent for crack testing. On top of that there was another little problem ----------- the steering arm on the drivers side was bent in two directions/straightening not an option Matt D. offered to draw up a file from my old steering arm plus measurements from me , to give to a CNC engineer to make a pair of steel billet arms ---- this he did but the offer from 'that' engineer didn't materialise
The steering arms are handed because once I'd lowered the car to the level it is now BUMP steer would have been the result. Two choices were (1) lift the rack or (2) lower the steering arms . I chose to lower the steering arms and point them closer to the brake disc at the same time , while I was at it This was a case of cut/shut the Raceleda steering arms already on the uprights which was fine in 2005

Now I've bent the damn things or one of them --- Raceleda's gone bust SO --- it had to be a new pair from Rally Design/Raceleda copies then cut/shut them . Quite tricky because being handed , the bent one can't be measured properly SO I'll have to cut/shut a mirror image of the kerbside steering arm that's still ok.

Today , to get the hang of it , I took the easy route and cut/shut the kerbside arm . Cut it almost off with just 3mm x 3mm on one corner left in place . This way I could twist it in the two directions needed to get the angle correct , after cutting chunks out to make space .
This , of course , shortens the arm which is what gave me the massively high geared steering 3yrs ago , of 1.7 turns lock to lock using my 2.4 quick rack.
HENCE not being able to just order a new pair ------ photo of the first one below ready for treatment/painting

Both done now --- what a bugger though The little ' tag ' left uncut in order to move the arm where I needed --------- SNAPPED off So this one took me a hell of a lot longer . Having the arm still attached makes a world of difference but trying to hold both pieces where you want them even just to spot weld them is damn tricky , mainly due to the complex angles required . A spot of weld also snaps easier than the original 3mm tag of steel It took three cracks at it before it would hold while bending into place. They are closer to being mirror images than the pair with one bent were (not done by me )
Both are the same distance from the brake disc and both are within 1.5mm of each other dropping downwards to attach the rack ends

This is due to bolting it on and off the upright many times while getting the angles/measurements before and during the welding process --- not too technical just repetition and perseverence

Two new replacements plus the old one not bent/on upright for a spare

Did a bit more towards the repair yesterday now that the steering arms are sorted(no upright - returned from Siltech yet) When I cut the front end bodywork off , it left a lot of f/glass ' dust ' everywhere as Im sure all who've made a flip front are aware Brushing off the remaining body was easy enough but all around the engine , pedal box/master cylinders , chassis and suspension took quite a while -- there's just knowhere it can't hide itself
Took both wheel arch guards off , one being bent/screwed all directions plus the ' D ' section that reinforces the outer wing to the steel gusset on the chassis was smashed , taking some of the lower under wing with it
This , I thought , would be a good time to re-design where that D ' section gets moulded in Using 15x7 wheels with 205x50 tyres meant they rubbed on the ' D ' on lock so I've repaired the lower wing floor ready to fit new ' D ' sections around 50mm rearwards of the edge . Need to make up some f/glass sheet before that can be completed so got on with removing all 5 National rodends off the Rocker , lower wishbone and rack end rod.(counting the threads to make a drawing before removal of course -- to aid getting back my original set-up )
I already have the new ones , ordered straight after the tree hugging episode so they can go straight on and re-fit the wishbone , once I've re-painted that. I scrubbed off the paint that was left on it and treated with Hydrate 80 x 2 coats (from Bilthamber)
Some time this morning it'll get gold painted then re-assembled Monday .
SO ---------- it's make/fit 2 ' D ' sections plus the upright re-assembly WHEN I get it After that , I'm ready for that ' body '
Nearly forgot --- I need a radiator

Did this Monday once the paint had dried . New rodends all round plus new for the top rocker outer & the steering rack rod end. They'll get white paint marked after fitting then it's easy to see if nuts have loosened after being on track --- something I've always checked
Old ones will do for flip hinge

sounds like you have been busy rob. I bet it makes you glad to have a kit car though. They are so easy to work on compared to a tin top. It takes me longer to change the plugs in my cousins rx7 than it does to refit my whole suspension on the stylus.

I think you will quite like the flip front once its done, it does make things a lot easier.

Yes , it certainly will . When first putting the kit together in 1997 , it wasn't an option/factory advised or explained plus I was too nervous then to consider doing anything not in the kit. Also P.Powell reckoned it was stiffer which is probably right. Since Tim started doing it plus by then I'd done so many chops and re-shapings --- the idea doesn't hold any fears for me apart from the fact it's going to be bloody awkward at scrutineering . Often it's done on gravel areas and even on tarmac , my chassis being 90 mm off the deck with a flip front is going to make it either tricky or do some damage. The timing strut has to be in place at scrutineering too . Hinging it a few inches forward of the factory advised position would reduce the drop when opened BUT would need big f/glass chunks cut from under each sides hinge OR it wouldn't open at all That in itself will weaken the flip front/wabbly etc so we'll just have to think that one over

yes, i could see that being a problem with yours, i'm sure it can be sorted with some clever thinking and hinge work.

Rob
Is it possible to fit the front so that the original bonnet is still usable allowing it to be opened for inspection but then hinge/lift off the front for "major" work?

Schrodinger wrote:Rob
Is it possible to fit the front so that the original bonnet is still usable allowing it to be opened for inspection but then hinge/lift off the front for "major" work?

H'mm , yes I could but having been through the thought processes of lift off , flip plus what you're saying , I feel it would lose even more strength that way plus getting a ' lift off ' off on my own would be awkward.
So decided it's all or nowt

I've got the hinge visualised in a way to avoid the body nose hitting the ground or the grill underbody fouling the ' A ' frame , when it's opened
If I make a new A ' frame using square 18mm tube with the top forward tubes LEVEL with the ground (as opposed to both top/bottom tubes pointing down 20 degrees ) then the lower tubes simply welded on at - just in front of the underbody f/glass as before for strength.
The top tube will then be approx'ly 75mm higher than standard and extend forward to the same length as the flat sections on a standard ' A ' frame . (type for fixed non flip body )
Then 90 degrees to that tube downwards weld 50mm of tube to take a threaded insert for a rodend (of which I've got two spare now )
That should see the hinge point approx'ly 75mm further forward than the standard hinge point .
With the top tube being HIGHER than standard ----------- this will allow space for the grill underbody to move into when the front is flipped open
Not being a PC expert , I can't draw it to put it on here but think I've got the problem solved

stylussprinter wrote: The timing strut has to be in place at scrutineering too .

Need to make sure you can still tilt the front without knocking the strut off too !

& think about the tow-eye mounting ?

MattD wrote:

stylussprinter wrote: The timing strut has to be in place at scrutineering too .

Need to make sure you can still tilt the front without knocking the strut off too !

& think about the tow-eye mounting ?

Yes , the towing eye really is a problem I must do some research looking at Fury 750 club race cars ----- they're all flip bonnets and have to comply with the MSA Blue Book reg's so somebody must have come up with a design/answer

Just seen a design solution to the towing eye problem , used on Tim Hovard's Fury Hyabusa race car
He's left the grill wire out completely then welded a tube onto the front chassis rail and over the top of a very steeply forward angled radiator ---- just poking out of the grill Apparently it misses his bonnet by 1mm when opened
Biggest problem I can see with that is ------------ if it's not supported from each side , it would bend and or break the radiator , if pulled off angle by an enthusiastic Marshal

Anyway , it's an idea to work on aye

Back on again Getting bored now Old woody rule shows what hinge arrangement I was describing (' A ' frame bent back to shape to help plan a better hinge )

Just some thoughts re: hinged bonnet and also making it removable.

On my R1ot I made the bonnet so that I could lift the bonnet or lift an slide off the bonnet - not so hard on the R1ot, I just used two garden shed steel hinges; the short hinge welded to the chassis and the long tongue slides into a scabbard attached to the bonnet - you just slide the bonnet onto the two hinges (like putting a knife in a scabbard) and then I used a bolt and captive nut to make sure it would not slide off.

You could do the same with the Stylus, but in reverse......

Put a hinge on the bonnet that has a rod/bar that then slides into a scabbard type receiver on the chassis (the "a" frame) - it would be simple to make and allow you to take the bonnet off fully in seconds.

I will try and draw what I mean, but I hope you get the concept - let me know if you need a drawing/sketch,
Q.

Rob.
For a towing eye, I have used webbing which is tied to the chassis and comes through a hole in the body. A bit of velcro holds it in site for use. The webbing is a contrast colour to the body. Deamon Tweek sell it (I think) but my wife made mine. I noticed a few Furys use it for the front & rear when I was at Silverstone last. Only problem is any sideway force is on the body apature - unless a straining ring (?) is mounted just behind.