clubstylus

So after saving hard I finally got to take the Stylus up to be tuned, and after 2 hours on the rolling road in the hands of a seriously good tuner, it now makes 300bhp and even more impressively 340ftlbs of torque, it started out at 217bhp.

He's set me up with two boost levels, as on full boost, about 16psi, it's just insane. Spins the wheels up in second in the dry, and keeps pulling hard till I run out of road or bottle.

It has really smooth delivery though, from low down the revs, helped by the fact it's a stock turbo and spools fast.

All this for around £2k, and should be totally reliable.

As you can see on the chart it dips a bit at about 4krpm as the actuator can't hold the boost, a £60 replacement would see a completely smooth curve.

Off to Cornwall in it tomorrow, lets hope I get it back in one piece

Thanks for everybodys help - especially Rob!!

Here's vid of it on the rollers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3ngxm0ygu4

That really is ' silly ' power --- you and Tony have it licked in the bhp/torque department
Only thing that got my attention though was that cable virtually riding on the reat tyre/wheel buzzing around at ???

well done, nice results. they are very scary cars with that sort of power, dont try it with normal road tyres on. Mines useless unless i have semi slicks like 888's on it.

No chance of road tyres going on, 888's all the way!

Just got back from a trip down to Cornwall to see a supplier. Half way there I turned the boost down from 20psi to 10psi (very easy to do with two set up boost settings), it was just too knackering to drive. Went like a dream though there and back, only a slight intermitted electrical/engine gremlin under throttle in the pouring rain, stopped as soon as the weather let up .... it was great driving around the Cornish country roads

Now to get it on the track at Abingdon in a couple of weaks and really start to get used to it.

A mates got a better actuator (20psi) which I'll swap over on Sunday and get rid of that dip in the power curve.

Rob, that wire looks close but wasn't in reality, looks worse than it was

Nissanman wrote:No chance of road tyres going on, 888's all the way!

Just got back from a trip down to Cornwall to see a supplier. Half way there I turned the boost down from 20psi to 10psi (very easy to do with two set up boost settings), it was just too knackering to drive. Went like a dream though there and back, only a slight intermitted electrical/engine gremlin under throttle in the pouring rain, stopped as soon as the weather let up .... it was great driving around the Cornish country roads

Now to get it on the track at Abingdon in a couple of weaks and really start to get used to it.

A mates got a better actuator (20psi) which I'll swap over on Sunday and get rid of that dip in the power curve.

Rob, that wire looks close but wasn't in reality, looks worse than it was

Jasper , if you're going to Abingdon you'll be very close to me drop in for a cuppa on your way back if you've time You'll probably go M25 , off at junc 20 , A41 then across via Thame to Abingdon

I'd love to mate, but I've got a 2 day course in London the following day and I need to be there before 9am, so I'll need to get back early (leaving the track by 4pm) to get my stuff together for the weekend away. Thanks for the invite - and you'd be very welcome to come to the track for a ride

Hi
I am in the process of fitting a SR20 DET to my Sylva, in place of the Esprit engine, what spec are you running,? I am looking at an S!4. I am told that with larger turbo 380bhp is possible.
What cooling are you using? I am hoping to be able to retain my old radiator (triple cored, ford escort size) and the electric water pump, any thoughts on if this is enought? have yu cut any vents to let air out of the back of the engine bay?
And again what back axil are you using, I plan to kep the old axil (lotus Sunbeam LSD, with works half shafts) 3.89:1.
Engine and box cost here is 700 pounds, 300 pound to have fitted and any consumables, (new piping etc) at cost, So budget to proffessionally fit is 1200 pound.
Regards
Kelvin

I'm running the S14a engine. I wouldn't bother going for 380bhp, 300bhp is almost too much anyway, I tend to use it on low boost (about 250bhp) most of the time, it will spin the wheels in the dry in a straight line in second gear.

I use a triple core caterham rad rated to 350bhp and it does the job fine with a FMIC directly infront of it. No need for an external water pump, the standard internal one is fine.

You're diff ratio will be wrong too, you'll need it around 3.60 - check what the original 200sx ratio is, but I'm sure it's around that. I'm using a Sierra LSD diff, independant rear end.

Check my pictures of my car, it has big air vents at the back of the bonnet, and the engine doesn't come even close to fitting under the standard bonnet, mine is at least 4 inches higher, if not more.

I would amazed if you get it done professional for £1200, in fact I would say that's possible, if you want more than the standard 200bhp. It cost me £2500 at least and I did all the work myself. You'll need a decent electronic boost controller, aftermarket piggyback chip or new programmable ECU (£500 either way) and then it will need to be rolling roaded for a couple of hours, you'll need a aftermarket intercooler, lots of pipework, new airfilter, cooler plugs, better clutch, new gauges, dump valve etc etc. It's still cheap for 300bhp - but you need to be realistic on how much all these upgrades cost.

And then there's the wiring - well, it took me 4 months to sort it out - it was a nightmare. If the garaged is quoting you I would get it in writing, fixed price, unless they've done these engines comversion often it's very complicated. Just getting the engine in required serious mods to the chassis rails in the engine bay, and cutting and widening the tunnel on the passenger side for the bellhousing so as not to narrow the drivers side. Then there was the 18 months it spent in the body shop, re-designing the bonnet and widening the back to take 235's, there's no way the standard 205 are gonna like that kind of power and torque going through them.

It's a fantastic and seriously powerful engine conversion, but I do think you need to be MUCH more realistic to how much it's all gonna cost you.

Hope that helps, if you want to talk about it you can always call me, very happy to help - don't think I'm trying to put a downer on it, just giving you a true idea of what you're undertaking.

Jasper

Where are you based?

Jasper , you've not been reading the forum on his car have you He runs a Jeremy Phillips Phoenix specially adapted to get his Sunbeam Lotus engine in there with it's diff ' to match and lives/works in Malaysia and runs the car on the Sepang F1 circuit. He has an ARB from me fitted also
From what Kelvin tells me costs of anything engineering are VERY low compared to the UK. £7 PER HOUR for a classic Ferrari restoration project

The Sunbeam was originally chucking out 275bhp and he is often in the top three in the race series he enters

Clearly not!!!

Well, the labour might be cheap, but the parts alone will be more than £1200 .....

Hi Jasper
Part here are cheap, I can buy a 'half cut' from Japan for around 500 pounds, half cuts are exactly that 3/4 year old Jap cars crushed or accident damaged, cut in half and shipped out by the container full. You can get almost anything, my mate races a E30, it is a complet M3 running gear, re shelled in a 325 shell, (not a cut and shunt) bought as two halfes from Japan.
As Rob said labour is cheap, had two cars rebult at 7 pound an hour and first class jobs. I leather interior for my 4 wheel drive was 300 pound, and that was for a top quality job, a cheap job can be had for about 150.
Problem is you need to find a quality worker, but having been here 12 years I know the right people,
The guy who is doing the engine has done it several time sbefor, including into a Escort Mk11 so he knows the set up.
I was offered an Alpina 3.3, with a 6 speed paddle shift for my 6 Series the other day, fully installed, for 3000 pound. Engine swaps are common here loads of expertise.
My old car had a .89:1 top gear so the 3.89 diff woould be about the same overall ratio as as the 3.6 you have if you have a 1;1 top gear. Can you tell me is the S14 gear box 1.1 top?
Thanks
Kelvin

Ahhhh, well that explains a lot then.

So, to answer your questions, I don't know about your rad as I only run 300bhp, I use an independent rear end so will be completed different to yours, as for the ratio's I honestly can't remember, it was 4 years ago I did all that. Your best place for technical help and spec's is http://www.sxoc.com

And presumably if you go for the larger turbo your going to get slower spool up time and it will all come in higher up the rev range? I don't know how wise that is with a car this light, it already breaks loose too easily with 300bhp. And with that kind of power I'd be thinking a strengthening the whole car, though I'm sure you've already got a full cage which will help.

Not sure if I can be any more help than that, but please do ask
Jasper

Hi Jasper
Thanks for info, checked and the 5th ratio for the S14 box 0.752, which is very close to my old gearbox 7.95.. Using the 3.89 diff I have this would therfore give a top speed at 7000rpm of approx 164 MPH, using the existing wheels

My old engine with 250 BHP would pull 8,500 In top, (did serious mechanical damage to rods etc, but power weight ratio allowed it to run and breath at those revs).

My mates TVR 5000M which weighs in at 900 KG and has 625 Bhp V8 in it will do 168 MPh before he has to to brake for turn one at the end of the start streight at Sepang, so anything theortically over 160 mph would be great,

Also the Ist gear on the S14 is better for a light car than my old ZF box. Any way looks like the 3.89 will do, at least for now, I need the car running in 6 weeks for the next race.

This is a pure track car and it runs full slicks, fuel economy is not an issue to me as the car only does 1000Km a year, and fuel here is only 30p a liter.

Thanks Kelvin

Sounds fantastic mate, sorry if I sounded doubtful to start with, but you can guess how many people have said to me 'I fancy putting the same engine in as you - can't be too hard or expensive'!!!

Bloody hell, 6 weeks, you've got your work cut out - what are you going to do with the bonnet to fit it under? I'm sure you could sit the engine a bit lower than I did if it's track only.

I think mines geared to about 170-180mph - it does 80mph at 3k revs.

Anyway - if I can be of any more help, let me know, I may well be coming to Malaysia again end of next year - if I do I'll defintiely want to go for a spin

Jasper

Engine is sourced, old engine is out of the car, discussion is 5 or 6 speed, I have a choice they are measuring up a six speed today, apparantly they are longer, and may not fit the tunnel
Paid 1,800 pounds to the mechanic today, which is all the parts and most of the labour, I'm not worried about paying in advance, as he does work for all the race series.
If you come to Malaysia you are on for a go, let me know if there is anything you want, you can get stuff here much cheaper. My paplan is to get the emgine in and runnig and then source a spare.