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Help - How to put stylus into preservation?
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 1:49 pm
by lambostylus
I'm faced with yet another short notice long term deployment, and I need some rapid advice on how to put my stylus into preservation for up to a year.
It will be under cover, but not in a fully enclosed building so exposed to temperature and humidity. What do i need to watch out for as far as sealing the engine (zetec 1.
, oil seals, oil/coolant/fuel levels, exposed metals etc etc?
And then what should I look for when re-habilitating it all in a years time?
Any tips as always, gratefully received.
Re: Help - How to put stylus into preservation?
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:52 pm
by stylussprinter
lambostylus wrote:I'm faced with yet another short notice long term deployment, and I need some rapid advice on how to put my stylus into preservation for up to a year.
It will be under cover, but not in a fully enclosed building so exposed to temperature and humidity. What do i need to watch out for as far as sealing the engine (zetec 1.
, oil seals, oil/coolant/fuel levels, exposed metals etc etc?
Get it up on blocks or stands , remove the wheels and let the air out then stack them. Take the rear drums off/stack them/put a poly bag around the whole backplate/brakes etc/cable tied. Take the brake pads out/poly bag them then push the brake cylinders right back in. Drain the fuel almost out/it deteriorates. Drain the water out from the engine/radiator etc. Remove the plugs and squirt a little redex into each cylinder then refit the plugs hand tight. Leave the oil in the engine. Remove the battery and leave it on a constant charger OR simply buy a new battery when you return.
And then what should I look for when re-habilitating it all in a years time?
To get her going again ----- Refit the fully charged battery . Clean all the brake pads/discs/calipers also rear brakes . Refit the wheels and pump the tyres up to 30 psi to secure a seal then lower to your norm ' after a day or a drive . Fill with new fresh fuel then disconnect the power to your fuel pump. Remove the plugs and rotate the engine for 30 seconds minimum . Clean and refit the plugs . Re- connect the power to your fuel pump . Fill the engine with coolant -- start and run to clear all bubbles/cavities.
Chassis tubes and any other metal parts like shocks/springs --- liberally spray with WD ---- it will just mean a slow dry ragging clean-up when you return
Any tips as always, gratefully received.
Sheet it up well with blankets or whatever plus the TARPAULIN
Can't think of anything else
Re: Help - How to put stylus into preservation?
Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:43 am
by lambostylus
A friend (of a friend etc...) suggested topping all liquid levels to brim full, to prevent internal corrosion? and then dropping everything and replacing it with new at correct levels.
Sounds logical, but few things actually are in my experience
Re: Help - How to put stylus into preservation?
Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:29 am
by Berw
I leave my car for a few months between races quite often, all I do is put it on axil stands, but I do tend to start it every few weeks. I also leave my bike for long periods but my rule is never leave it with Shell premium fuel, (Optimax) I find the benzine evaporats and leaves the additives in the system to block jets.
Ok temp were I live is 35 in the shade, may not be an issue in the UK, if you dont' believe me take some Shell optimax in a saucer leave it in the sun, and then try to clean the saucer.
My rule is never to use Optimax, unless I know I am finishing a tank full, if I can't finish the tank and have to leave it in the tank for any length of time, then I turn the fuel tap off on the bike, /switch of the pump on the car and let the car stop from fuel starvation.
Same may be true of BP etc, but the only 'premium' fuel they sell here is Shell so never doone a test on any other.l
Re: Help - How to put stylus into preservation?
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:35 pm
by alecmartin19
if you are leaving it for a very long time it is a good idea to fill the engine, gearbox and diff to the top with oil to stop corrosion. also block the inlet and exhaust ports. fill the cylinders with oil to prevent corrosion here too otherwise the cylinder bores will become very corroded very quickly especially if the air is damp. try to cover everything in breathable covers too as if you get condensation, you will find anything like carpets, seats and roof will start to grow mould.
i know when we store aircraft engines, we put them in an airtight bag with silica packs to soak up the moisture.