clubstylus

I am having problems cold starting the "new toy" that has 2 litre Zetec. New battery has not solved the problem. Turns over but does not fire. (Jump start using the trusty Saab works first try every time.)
Could this be a build up of crankcase pressure/engine breathing problem?
Any bright ideas out there?

Sean

farwest wrote:I am having problems cold starting the "new toy" that has 2 litre Zetec. New battery has not solved the problem. Turns over but does not fire. (Jump start using the trusty Saab works first try every time.)
Could this be a build up of crankcase pressure/engine breathing problem?
Any bright ideas out there?

Sean

Possibly the starter switch is ' dodgey ' but gets enough power through when 'two battery' powered , albeit arking to do it
Does is start with a push

I used to have that problem on my zetec. The battery had to be tip top, & the engine start in the 1st few turns. If I jumped it from another car it would start no problem.

My trouble was the standard starter motor. This could not easily turn the engine over. It took so much power from the battery, that in these cold days the engine required a good few spins to fire.

I fitted a hi-torque starter. Mine is a Brise unit (I paid £210 a few years ago), part no 891410AXG. They need to know its for a zetec with a type 9 gear box, is a spacer is needed. Which they supplied with it. I know others have fitted different starters.

The other issue I had was getting the fuelling right. After a day on a rolling road this is now perfect. Even cold starting. Its so good to arrive at a circuit with the car on the trailer, and just push the button to fire it up. Within a few turns & without getting in the car.

Good luck

Yes , me too Kevin . Mine came from LUKEMOTORSPORT nr Aylesbury and was bought for £135 cash

Thank you both for these thoughts
Rolling road session is planned, but I will try a new starter motor as suggested

You should also make sure that you have a good earth to the engine.
I had an earth run to the fixing bolt on the starter and had no problems at all with a standard starter and a zetec.

Your problem may be that as your cranking the voltage to the ecu is dropping too low that basically shuts down you need to check the ign supply at the ecu itself whilst cranking and make sure is at least 9.5v, then check other areas but this test will rule out a lot of potential faults.......Phil

Ah thanks for reminding me Ned . That's what Dunnell told me , after it wouldn't start , when I first tried to start the engine after rebuild plus TB's etc ---- '' my ECU was set to cut off totally when less than 12 volts was delivered '' and cranking did exactly that until I sorted the wiring out / new line from starter to ign switch plus wired the ECU direct to the battery
No problem on 45's , hence my confusion

Rob, My ecu will run well below 12v. But will add a percentage to the fuelling IIRC, (allow the injectors to open longer) to equalise for this. This of course with some "cold start " correction as well, can lead to flooding, unless some careful programming has taken place. Which is very unlikely.

kevp wrote:Rob, My ecu will run well below 12v. But will add a percentage to the fuelling IIRC, (allow the injectors to open longer) to equalise for this. This of course with some "cold start " correction as well, can lead to flooding, unless some careful programming has taken place. Which is very unlikely.

Yes , so will mine but only when he turned off his auto cut in the ECU . That's how he discovered my problem with the wiring. He connected the laptop --- turned off the 12volt cut off and she started immediately whereas I couldn't start it at all So that pinpointed the problem as my wiring