Getting ready for a speed event

[josephmoore]

The IOWCC are planning an away day this year - probably going to be a sprint or hillclimb by popular vote. An ideal opportunity to do something I'd been planning on trying with some friends of mixed experience. The idea being to encourage members to try a new form of motorsport

So, there's a bit of a to do list:
- Acquire gloves and overalls
- Tape up battery cable
- Fit a new roll hoop (measurements are looking promising and one of the guys at the club has agreed to do the fabrication for me)
- Make timing strut
- Label up ignition switch
- Apply for an MSA licence (nearly forgot this one!)
- Fit tow loop

I've got a couple of questions for those of you with more experience in these things...

(S) 10.6.3. An external circuit breaker to K.8 is mandatory for all cars except open cars of periods A – E (Nomenclature and Definitions) and cars licensed for road use (when it is recommended).

The last bit makes it read as not mandatory for a roadgoing vehicle? Otherwise, I guess I just move the battery isolator switch from under the bonnet to the dashboard?

(S) 11.5.2. For Road-Going Specialist Production Cars, the cylinder block and head must be of a make and type produced in at least 1,000 identical units originally available through the normal commercial channels of a land vehicle manufacturer.

How does my Raceline head affect that? As far as I know it's a standard head just ported a bit. I'd have figured I'd end up in Road Going Series Production or get pushed into Modified Series Production, worst case.

(J) 5.8.2. Not be fitted with any wheel spacer exceeding 2.5cm in thickness or of less than hub diameter. Multiple or Laminated Spacers and extended studs are prohibited.

I'm sure the standard RT spacers are 50mm on the rear, aren't they? Might be wrong, off the top of my head.

...I think that's about it for now

[stylussprinter]

The IOWCC are planning an away day this year - probably going to be a sprint or hillclimb by popular vote. An ideal opportunity to do something I'd been planning on trying with some friends of mixed experience. The idea being to encourage members to try a new form of motorsport

So, there's a bit of a to do list:
- Acquire gloves and overalls
- Tape up battery cable
- Fit a new roll hoop (measurements are looking promising and one of the guys at the club has agreed to do the fabrication for me)
- Make timing strut
- Label up ignition switch
- Apply for an MSA licence (nearly forgot this one!)
- Fit tow loop

I've got a couple of questions for those of you with more experience in these things...

(S) 10.6.3. An external circuit breaker to K.8 is mandatory for all cars except open cars of periods A – E (Nomenclature and Definitions) and cars licensed for road use (when it is recommended).

The last bit makes it read as not mandatory for a roadgoing vehicle? Otherwise, I guess I just move the battery isolator switch from under the bonnet to the dashboard?

(S) 11.5.2. For Road-Going Specialist Production Cars, the cylinder block and head must be of a make and type produced in at least 1,000 identical units originally available through the normal commercial channels of a land vehicle manufacturer.

How does my Raceline head affect that? As far as I know it's a standard head just ported a bit. I'd have figured I'd end up in Road Going Series Production or get pushed into Modified Series Production, worst case.

(J) 5.8.2. Not be fitted with any wheel spacer exceeding 2.5cm in thickness or of less than hub diameter. Multiple or Laminated Spacers and extended studs are prohibited.

I'm sure the standard RT spacers are 50mm on the rear, aren't they? Might be wrong, off the top of my head.

...I think that's about it for now

You'll be roadgoing kit car BUT make sure you apply for your msa licence and BLUE BOOK before embarking on the rollhoop , 2016 rules state tube diam , gauge of tube , type of tube and height above drivers head plus helmet. What the engine has had done to it is irrelevant in roadgoing kitcar ok.
The isolator to cut the ignition is not required but I put one in anyway -- should be within drivers reach while seated/harness on tight. I fitted the £25 le man .
Modified (your raceline head) won't apply to your engine spec ----- you will be roadgoing.
Spacers -- h'mmm . I've never had , ever , a scrute crawl underneath looking for spacers or extended studs . Recently , I've had new wheels with offsets to suit the arches , so spacers not required . However , they used to be on the rears. Also , I have been entered in sports libre since 2006 and TIM SSC , always had spacers on the rear without issues in competition. Your decision but they won't look for them.
The only big deal is the correct 2016 msa rules regarding roll over bar and compulsory rear stays , welded onto the top of the hoop then down 30 degrees to the chassis. READ YOUR BLUE BOOK pages on roll hoop/cages etc.

[josephmoore]

Cheers Rob, always good to have some real world experience. Going to have a natter with some of the club members who go to Gurston Down at the event this Sunday. Figured as much with the spacers but it would be a bummer to do all that work and have someone pick up on it.

Got all the specs from the blue book (you can download it from the MSA website) and the fabricator is well versed in working on race cars. Reckon there's enough clearance to run the back stays down through the hood coaming rather than the rear deck but I'll have to do some measuring up beforehand of course.

[stylussprinter]

Cheers Rob, always good to have some real world experience. Going to have a natter with some of the club members who go to Gurston Down at the event this Sunday. Figured as much with the spacers but it would be a bummer to do all that work and have someone pick up on it.

Got all the specs from the blue book (you can download it from the MSA website) and the fabricator is well versed in working on race cars. Reckon there's enough clearance to run the back stays down through the hood coaming rather than the rear deck but I'll have to do some measuring up beforehand of course.

Regarding GURSTON , the scrutes are absolutely per book for everything , Goodwood a close 2nd .The clearance behind you for the backstays isn't the issue --- the stays MUST meet the 2016 regs at 30 degrees and I'm pretty sure that will mean going through either the high 100mm's wide surround behind the seats , before the body/boot drops down level. Then some inner black f/glass needs cutting away for welding a tower onto the 50x25mm chassis member . Check the book.

[josephmoore]

Yep, that surround is what I meant by hood coaming. The vague plan is to fit some U brackets to the chassis rails inside the boot, cut some round holes in the top of the coaming which will let straight backstays slide through and bolt the legs to the U brackets. Just have to do some measuring up and taking photos to make sure all the clearances are correct. With a bit of luck that should keep holes in the bodywork to a minimum... we'll see.

[stylussprinter]

Yep, that surround is what I meant by hood coaming. The vague plan is to fit some U brackets to the chassis rails inside the boot, cut some round holes in the top of the coaming which will let straight backstays slide through and bolt the legs to the U brackets. Just have to do some measuring up and taking photos to make sure all the clearances are correct. With a bit of luck that should keep holes in the bodywork to a minimum... we'll see.

Bolting is not allowed , so u bolts won't be accepted Joe. The 50x25mm chassis rails will need to be drilled to take correct internal diameter tubes which must be welded both sides. Then a mounting plate/tower can take the 30 degree tube end welded on . Then that tower can be bolted I believe , to the chassis. Check the actual drawings .
I could be wrong here but that's how it reads to me.

[josephmoore]

No no - proper brackets not U-bolts; that would be crazy!

The way I read it you're fine to make up a U bracket fitted (probably welded, maybe bolted if regs allow) to the chassis to accept the end of the backstay and bolt through the lot provided the double-shear requirements are met. Drawing K20 explains it better than I'm describing it, I think. Will have the book in hand while figuring out the details anyway.