Cutting out engine
Cutting out engine
I have an ongoing engine fault.
The car starts & runs (idol & low RPM), but when I try & driving it under load the car dies. I can wait a few minutes and all is well until I need to get out of 2nd gear.
As I had a problem with the engine management I thought this was the cause. So I got a new system & wiring loom. I fitted this and the car started 1st time & ran smoothly. So I thought all was well.
Went to Goodwood (posted in events) and discovered the same fault was still there.
I have fuel injection & mapped ignition. The engine starts cutting out & eventually dies on load & presumably when hot. Will not restart, but leave it for 30s to a few minutes and it will start & run for 100 meters then cut out again.
The suggestions so far have been –
Breaking down condenser (but do not have a distributor. The ignition drive modules where replaced with the low. So unlikely that these are to fault. Also they are mounted behind the dash so are not subject to the heat.
Low fuel pressure. This cant be the fault as the pressure would come back at low engine speeds & would be able to restart immediately.
I have been doing some research on the internet & have come up with a possible faulty speed sensor. As it must be a part breaking down under heat/load. This is also a common Zetec fault I’m told.
Any other thoughts & ideas?
Kev
The car starts & runs (idol & low RPM), but when I try & driving it under load the car dies. I can wait a few minutes and all is well until I need to get out of 2nd gear.
As I had a problem with the engine management I thought this was the cause. So I got a new system & wiring loom. I fitted this and the car started 1st time & ran smoothly. So I thought all was well.
Went to Goodwood (posted in events) and discovered the same fault was still there.
I have fuel injection & mapped ignition. The engine starts cutting out & eventually dies on load & presumably when hot. Will not restart, but leave it for 30s to a few minutes and it will start & run for 100 meters then cut out again.
The suggestions so far have been –
Breaking down condenser (but do not have a distributor. The ignition drive modules where replaced with the low. So unlikely that these are to fault. Also they are mounted behind the dash so are not subject to the heat.
Low fuel pressure. This cant be the fault as the pressure would come back at low engine speeds & would be able to restart immediately.
I have been doing some research on the internet & have come up with a possible faulty speed sensor. As it must be a part breaking down under heat/load. This is also a common Zetec fault I’m told.
Any other thoughts & ideas?
Kev
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I have assumed it's a Zetec but what ECU and what mods have you made to the engine, ie flywheel etc?
It could be the rev limiter set too low.
If the fuel pressure is to low and the pump controled by the ecu as the engine cut out the ecu would not allow it to come back on again.
I had a problem with my Zetec when I damaged the cps but that wouldn't let me start the car.
It could be the rev limiter set too low.
If the fuel pressure is to low and the pump controled by the ecu as the engine cut out the ecu would not allow it to come back on again.
I had a problem with my Zetec when I damaged the cps but that wouldn't let me start the car.
Keith
Aviemore
Aviemore
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Re: Cutting out engine
Kevin , I would highly recommend you contact babybertha via PM on this list --- he's a very clued up guy unless of course he reads your post anyway and responds.kevp wrote:I have an ongoing engine fault.
The car starts & runs (idol & low RPM), but when I try & driving it under load the car dies. I can wait a few minutes and all is well until I need to get out of 2nd gear.
As I had a problem with the engine management I thought this was the cause. So I got a new system & wiring loom. I fitted this and the car started 1st time & ran smoothly. So I thought all was well.
Went to Goodwood (posted in events) and discovered the same fault was still there.
I have fuel injection & mapped ignition. The engine starts cutting out & eventually dies on load & presumably when hot. Will not restart, but leave it for 30s to a few minutes and it will start & run for 100 meters then cut out again.
The suggestions so far have been –
Breaking down condenser (but do not have a distributor. The ignition drive modules where replaced with the low. So unlikely that these are to fault. Also they are mounted behind the dash so are not subject to the heat.
Low fuel pressure. This cant be the fault as the pressure would come back at low engine speeds & would be able to restart immediately.
I have been doing some research on the internet & have come up with a possible faulty speed sensor. As it must be a part breaking down under heat/load. This is also a common Zetec fault I’m told.
Any other thoughts & ideas?
Kev
Rob(sure it'll be something simple )
I just love the Stylus but she keeps swallowing £££ !
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
- Werner Van Loock
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just thinking out loud!
I'm also thinking about air leak in the inlet, maybe inlet manifold gets distorted when engine warms up/gets hot and the gasket might fail then. And it would also explain why you have to wait untill it has cooled down. Problem could also be in the head (cracked)
The fellah with the yellow nissan powered stylus suffered something similar, though it kept running I think. It's somehwere in a post here. When the engine got warm/hot the crack opened up and closed again when cooled down.
And what about your spark plugs? How do they look and are it the correct ones. They can also overheat and start making trouble, but then it would be more random.
The fellah with the yellow nissan powered stylus suffered something similar, though it kept running I think. It's somehwere in a post here. When the engine got warm/hot the crack opened up and closed again when cooled down.
And what about your spark plugs? How do they look and are it the correct ones. They can also overheat and start making trouble, but then it would be more random.
- Bikenuts
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Sorry slightly woolly thinking in my last post.
I’m not that familiar with the Zetec but guess you’ve got a fuel pressure regulator controlling the return from the fuel rail if this is set too high or your pump cannot supply sufficient pressure you may get vaporisation in the fuel rail due to insufficient circulation of fuel.
I’m not that familiar with the Zetec but guess you’ve got a fuel pressure regulator controlling the return from the fuel rail if this is set too high or your pump cannot supply sufficient pressure you may get vaporisation in the fuel rail due to insufficient circulation of fuel.
Thanks for everones input.
I am running Jenvy Injection & kronenburg engine managment.
There is a fuel regulator - this may need adjusting.
The Spark plugs look like its running lean - all plugs in the same state.
Is an early Zetec engine . The fly wheel is the origonal Mondeo one but has been lightened. I have run the engine in its current set up but with Emerald M3D for a few years in a Westfield. The fuel pump, regulator & fuel lines are different though.
Kev
I am running Jenvy Injection & kronenburg engine managment.
There is a fuel regulator - this may need adjusting.
The Spark plugs look like its running lean - all plugs in the same state.
Is an early Zetec engine . The fly wheel is the origonal Mondeo one but has been lightened. I have run the engine in its current set up but with Emerald M3D for a few years in a Westfield. The fuel pump, regulator & fuel lines are different though.
Kev
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engine management
What made you go for Kronenburg I've never come across that one Rob.kevp wrote:Thanks for everones input.
I am running Jenvy Injection & kronenburg engine managment.
There is a fuel regulator - this may need adjusting.
The Spark plugs look like its running lean - all plugs in the same state.
Is an early Zetec engine . The fly wheel is the origonal Mondeo one but has been lightened. I have run the engine in its current set up but with Emerald M3D for a few years in a Westfield. The fuel pump, regulator & fuel lines are different though.
Kev
I just love the Stylus but she keeps swallowing £££ !
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
- Werner Van Loock
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I had a problem a couple of years ago with the original Emerald ECU. Whilst trying to sort it out Dave Walker suggested I go to the Auto Sport Show that year to see him. They had a new unit coming out but where waiting for it to be manufactured, so nothing was available. Further round the show Kronenburg had a stand, so I spoke to them. They were very helpful. Gave away the prog CD with set up's for various engines. So when Emerald where still struggling to help me I used the KMS. The zetec setup was discovered to be wrong.
The Lambda seems to be working. It corrects the fuel on idol & when I got home & downloaded the map there where a lot of correction adjustments labelled up. However the target value (14.1) may still be out. My problems existed before the lambda & ECU where changed & fitted, so I don’t expect this to be the cause.
Unsure of Spark Plug values, but Rob has suggested I replace them in case.
Kev
The Lambda seems to be working. It corrects the fuel on idol & when I got home & downloaded the map there where a lot of correction adjustments labelled up. However the target value (14.1) may still be out. My problems existed before the lambda & ECU where changed & fitted, so I don’t expect this to be the cause.
Unsure of Spark Plug values, but Rob has suggested I replace them in case.
Kev
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- Stylus owner
- Posts: 3772
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:49 pm
- Are you a Stylus owner?: yes
- Location: ASTON CLINTON BUCKS
plugs !
kevp wrote:I had a problem a couple of years ago with the original Emerald ECU. Whilst trying to sort it out Dave Walker suggested I go to the Auto Sport Show that year to see him. They had a new unit coming out but where waiting for it to be manufactured, so nothing was available. Further round the show Kronenburg had a stand, so I spoke to them. They were very helpful. Gave away the prog CD with set up's for various engines. So when Emerald where still struggling to help me I used the KMS. The zetec setup was discovered to be wrong.
The Lambda seems to be working. It corrects the fuel on idol & when I got home & downloaded the map there where a lot of correction adjustments labelled up. However the target value (14.1) may still be out. My problems existed before the lambda & ECU where changed & fitted, so I don’t expect this to be the cause.
Unsure of Spark Plug values, but Rob has suggested I replace them in case.
Kev
Kev' , the plugs you need for the 2lt zetec are heavy duty NGK R PTR5A 13 or it's latest replacement(they're always upgrading/improving them)
These are good for up to 200bhp.
Rob(have Kronenburg given you any help about it's symptoms )
I just love the Stylus but she keeps swallowing £££ !
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.
Alfa Red 159 2.4 jtdm ti 260bhp 365lbft / BilsteinB12 + Adjustable Powerflex camber/castor bushes. Red STYLUS 2lt zetec 231bhp 185lbft Dunnell . RED 1972 Alfa 2lt GTAm replica 170bhp.