My build progress & a million questions

[Werner Van Loock]

Been busy grinding down the polybushes to make the suspension move. Now the crushtubes are 1 to 1.5 mil longer then the poly's and also used the dremel to grind away the weldingsplatters.

But now I see I need new 1/2"x2 3/4" 8.8 or grade5 bolts as most of them have busted threads. I already have new nyloc's, but the bolts over here seem to be made from gold as they cost me 2.5pound/piece

Can anyone tell me what they cost in the UK? As it's imperial it might be (a lot) cheaper

[Werner Van Loock]

Anyone still alive?

Pritty darn silent on here.

[whiterabbit]

Try these. £1.36

http://www.namrick.co.uk/

Steve

[hearbear]

How many and what size are they Werner as may be able to get some and post to you as I go into council workshops all the time, and alot still have imperial sizes.

Cheers George

[Werner Van Loock]

1/2" x 2 3/4" 8.8 or grade5 bolts george

I'll check how many that really need replacement.

[Pete&Matt]

use grade 8.8 minimum on the suspension! 8.8 is standard anyway!

[whiterabbit]

Box of 10 for £4.02 plus vat

http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk

Steve

[Werner Van Loock]

Pete,

Grade 5 and 8.8 is exactly the same, only 8.8 is european designation and grade 5 is US.

Check it out here:

http://www.americanfastener.com/technic ... _steel.asp

[Werner Van Loock]

OK, here we go again.

Steering rack supports have been bracketed now, so i can continue, but ...

I have a buildmanual for the chevette stuff and some parts have been discarded, but not replaced. So i should set the camer to 1 a 1.25 degree negative, but how do i check this? With or without wheel, car on the ground or suspension hanging/max extended?

Brake lines, where have you put em? Seem to find different layout's.

And the gearbox mount, it's currently a flat plate between 2 chassis rails. but the sierra rubber mount has a bit on both sides, so do i have to cut a hole in the plate of the chassis or shouldn't use the sierra/type9 rubber mount?

[stylussprinter]

OK, here we go again.

Steering rack supports have been bracketed now, so i can continue, but ...

I have a buildmanual for the chevette stuff and some parts have been discarded, but not replaced. So i should set the camer to 1 a 1.25 degree negative, but how do i check this? With or without wheel, car on the ground or suspension hanging/max extended?

WEIGHT on the car. Rough 1st setting , 10mm between spirit level/perpendicular(touching tyre at ground level) & tyre side at top. Exact setting will require you to measure the height where you check--that will give you a radius from which to work out the length of theoretical circumference--which will give you the distance per 1 degree neg. IE. if 1 cm = 1 degree and your tyre to spirit level is 13mm --- you have 1.3 derees neg

Brake lines, where have you put em? Seem to find different layout's.

ANYWHERE high up in the tunnell -- mine is TOP RIGHT as the master cylinders are on the right.(purely safety from flying stones etc.

And the gearbox mount, it's currently a flat plate between 2 chassis rails. but the sierra rubber mount has a bit on both sides, so do i have to cut a hole in the plate of the chassis or shouldn't use the sierra/type9 rubber mount?

If you refer to the old build manual (P.Powell's old J.Phillips one) I'm sure it tells you which mount BUT I've forgotten for certain. What I do know is that it's not the SEIRRA one. Think it's from an Escort automatic box . One bolt into the T9 and two bolts 4 inches apart through and on top of the chassis plate. It's a metalastic mount .

[MattD]

Hi Werner

Rob's right, the gearbox tail uses an escort automatic mount, as per the type 9 pics attached.

The later underneath pics are of the Fiat 131 box I had in for the first 5yrs, which had studs.
You can see the escort mount bolt through holes from my earlier ford plans, which I re-used when I went back to the Zetec a couple of years ago.

Matt

[Werner Van Loock]

Thanks Matt, your pictures were very helpfull.

Guess what, the gearbox mount was the correct one, I thought I had a sierra one, but it wasn't.

This is the progress I made since. (pictures are clickable)

Rear axle with brake lines

front brake lines

Throttle pedal having the good shape now (was a bitch to get right)

Trolley wheels decided to give up on the Zetec

So time to put it in

It's in



The sump is 5.5cm (+2") under the bottom of the chassis, is this good/acceptable? Also the top of the cambeltcover on the front of the engine is 53cm above the bottom chassisrail(topside) will it fit, can anyone with a zetec measure this? I'm asking this because I have no engine mounts and have to weld em up, so trying to get a good position.

The gearbox has just finger thickness clearance to the chassis, is this ok, looks like matt's picture, all pretty close.

[kevp]

Werner the sump is to deep. It needs to be cut & baffled ideally.
My 1st sump was a home made cut & shut (need to shorten the oil pick up as well). I ran this for a few years in my Westfield. But when I had starter motor problems I fitted a larger/different starter and ended up grinding to much of the sump away. This forced me to get a new one from Scholar http://www.scholarengines.co.uk/Lowline%20sump.htm . Raceline do a custom made unit, it looks fab but costs loads.
If you DIY or get someone locally to do the work, you need to maintain the sump capacity & baffle it to stop surge & loss of pick up.
As already stated my origonal was just cut & welded, so the oil capacity was reduced but this did work.
Good luck

[Schrodinger]

I had one of the Scholar sumps in my Tiger, it was well done and baffled with the shortened pickup.
I would recommend them.

[MattD]

Werner

I'm in the garage this morning, so I'll take some measurements & pics & post them later today.

The gearbox is tight in the tunnel, as you say finger width all round.
Important bit is to get it as far back as possible for weight distribution. I cut bits off my ali one to do this !

Matt