clubstylus

Pete&Matt wrote:your nuts!!

i know....................... but why?

just flying about in it just afer a re-build. would scare the crap out of me!

i dont think i went more than about 15 mph, just looked and felt quick. Its going to take some getting used to and tweaking. The clutch bighting point is really high hence the kangaroo starts, the ecu isnt set up so it wont idle so the revs are up which makes it look like i'm pulling away hard even with the capri 3.09 diff.

got to go for the first drive at some point luckly i live in a small village and my road is a cul de sac, i have a little block i can go round which is no where near main roads.

Wicked mate. Feel all emotional like.

i hope you approve mate

Hell yes! Your gona have to put Craig in his place I think He never saw it.

your not the first person to say that today, spartacus on MRC emailed me as he has seen the project a few times when i did bits for his LS1 FD. As i said to him, Craig's car must be mental, nearly 700 bhp in a car weighing about 1200 kg plus all that torque. I could probably do quite well around a small track if its set up well but on a fast curcuit or a drag strip he would whip me...... be fun trying though

GEARING.

Huge impact on acceleration. Craigs running a 3.09 viper diff and the six speed. 90mph in top at 2k. Don't get me wrong, I went in it Friday and it just hammers it's way through the gears (2nd and third anyway and thats 130!). BUT! It's apparantly not that much quicker than the car on the day (3 or 4 FD V8's in total there) that ran circa 550ish bhp. - I think that's down to gearing cos that car is running the 3.9 FD auto diff.

I reckon even in a straight race up to 140ish you would have him if your gearing stacks up. On a circuit, well, thats where all these kinds of cars show their ace!

I will see him in the morning as he is fitting an LSD in the crapisto for me and tell him you have been taking the pee out of his car he he. Are you going to rotostock? I love being a wind up merchant

The MOT is booked for 2 weeks time so fingers crossed

The front is back on and i've worked through most of the electrical gremlins and all seem to work. Just got to finish wiring up the headlights and indicators. Find somewhere to put the windscreen washer bottle.

You can see the rad and intercooler in place, the top hole is going to be ducted with a piece of ali creating a scoope over the rad and down to the bottom of the i/c, the front mouth is then going to feed the rad. I have ducted the front with ali which is also strengthening the front hinge and makes sure all the air going in has to go through the rad.

The head lights are now in.......... that was a b1tch of a job and i dont like the ay they mount so when its up and running i will look at changing them when i get a bit of experience with glassing.

From the look of your intercooler etc you'll only want a ' grill ' in that f/glass hole you've cut. The last guy to run a rotary in a kit had cooling problems in a Striker ------ a Jag' or MG woven grill might look pretty good

The hole was already cut by Paul so i have just made use of it. If i just put mesh in the top hole it wont be as efficient. I need to encourage air in and direct the flow to where i need it to go. If i leave the top hole open any air going in through the front mouth will just go over the radiator as air wants to take the easiest route. By putting an ali sheet over the rad all the air going in through the mouth has to go through the rad. It will also mean that all air going into the top vent will have to go through the i/c.

I played around a lot with water and air temps on my rx7's and got much better results on track than guys with less HP and bigger rads and i/c's. I put it down to spending a lot of time and effort ducting to, and sealing around the coolers and promoting the air into the openings by trying to create a low pressure area behind the coolers.

I'm sure it will need tweaking but i'll get there in the end.

Oh yes , I'd assumed you'd be doing that , I trapped the air from my grill to have to pass through the rad'. I was purely thinking of ' looks ' when completed

Car passed its MOT on saturday and now has both seats, harnesses, Insurance etc. Just waiting for dry weather and time so i can run the engine in. Seems to running well so far and water temps(my main concern) stay at 86 all the time unless the car is stationary then the fans cut in at 90 and bring the temp back down to 86 again.

I have one issue which needs sorting, the fuel tank! I initially had an external pump but it was very noisy and i had trouble getting it low enough so i tried an in tank pump which dropped in the bottom of the swirl pot in the tank but even with half a tank full i still get starvation on roundabouts. I was always going to change the tank but I shall be doing it sooner now. I will make a baffled aliminium tank and use as much of the space under the car as possible, put a swirl pot in it and use the in tank pump. External swirl pots and pumps are the easy answer but i'm running out of room and i need somewhere to put my water injection tank. I am aiming for about 10 gallons hopefully, which at full tap on a track will see about 100 miles

Do any of you have pictures of your interiors?, I'm looking for inspiration on what to do with mine. I'm also not sure how to lay out my dash!

Antnicuk wrote:Car passed its MOT on saturday and now has both seats, harnesses, Insurance etc. Just waiting for dry weather and time so i can run the engine in. Seems to running well so far and water temps(my main concern) stay at 86 all the time unless the car is stationary then the fans cut in at 90 and bring the temp back down to 86 again.

I have one issue which needs sorting, the fuel tank! I initially had an external pump but it was very noisy and i had trouble getting it low enough so i tried an in tank pump which dropped in the bottom of the swirl pot in the tank but even with half a tank full i still get starvation on roundabouts. I was always going to change the tank but I shall be doing it sooner now. I will make a baffled aliminium tank and use as much of the space under the car as possible, put a swirl pot in it and use the in tank pump. External swirl pots and pumps are the easy answer but i'm running out of room and i need somewhere to put my water injection tank. I am aiming for about 10 gallons hopefully, which at full tap on a track will see about 100 miles

Do any of you have pictures of your interiors?, I'm looking for inspiration on what to do with mine. I'm also not sure how to lay out my dash!

The issue with starvation has been discussed here before hence my pic's and Matt D's after checking mine out. The tank needs a central exit about 50mm then a 50mm cylinder --- 100mm wide welded onto the bottom over the 50mm exit hole in the tank. From this cylinder weld an exit pipe 12 to 14 mm in the centre bottom and it should then turn 90 degrees as close to the cylinder as possible . Your pump then needs to be in line with that pipe so that fuel literaly just falls into it. Then pipe it to the fuel rail in 10mm copper central heating pipe and return with the same to the top of the tank. Fill with foam and don't forget a breather. My pump is a 130psi for the 232bhp I'm running so you'll need to work out what your grunt requires.
NEVER had a problem

my tank already has that mod, RX7s need so much fuel that this its a common problem even on the stock car when fitting an updrated pump. I have a bosch 044 which is a huge flowing pump. I'm gonna have trouble fitting the pump beneath or level with the swirl pot underneath the tank although nothing is impossible. The external pumps are also very noisy. The intank pump is a walbro 255 which i know will flow 350 fly which is more than i need (for now ).

By making a tank i get almost twice as much capacity, only one pump required (less weight) the tank will be ali so wont weigh too much, i can baffle it properly so can hopefully get away with little or no foam (that stuff is expensive). A sheet of ali is £38 which is enough to make the whole tank.