clubstylus

i would be intrested in who made your bar. We dont need somthing so complex, but do need one and as Tim didnt use a standard Saftey Devices bar, were stuffed at the mo!

I got pissed off trying to get one from SSC so bought one from Fisher for a Fury and it fitted, please see following thread for pics and details viewtopic.php?f=15&t=488&p=3954&hilit=rollbar#p3954



Alex

I made the roll cage as the stock bar was way too low and i felt a little vulnerable to say the least.

It took some planning as i still use the car on the road so didnt want something that was going to make it too difficult to get into. I bought the CDS tube from a stockist for £70 for 2 6 meter lengths. Then I borrowed a modrel bender from a friend. If you look carefully, other than the 2 hoops front and rear, the door bars and the roof bars just have one small bend in them. This was because i wasnt sure how i was going to do it until i got it home so i just cut some lengths and put a bend in them. When i got home my cousin and i just played about with it until we got some thing that supported the corners of the front and rear hoops but didnt get in the way of a helmet and wasnt too high. You dont notice the door bars when you are in the car and i didnt hit my head once on the track day although my cousin who is a little taller than me did. That should be cured when i put the seats back in as i am going to lower them an inch. Not sure if you can se the front but i have connected it to the front bulkhead frame for added strength and rigidity. Overall i'm very happy with how it came out in the end. The tube is 38 mm so is a lot smaller than the roll over bar and doesnt weigh that much more.

i just picked the car up and its all white.......

i have some finishing to and then strat refitting everything.

Antnicuk wrote:i just picked the car up and its all white.......

i have some finishing to and then strat refitting everything.

Come on then , let's see some pic's

i am nights this week, got off late this morning, 10 am instead of 6 so there goes most of the day and i have just got up and its p1ssing down with rain! I have less than 2 weeks to the Rockingham trackday! Pics are pointless while its stuck in the garage.... oh well, maybe tomorrow saturday nights in East London are worse than Friday's


just while i remember, i made enquiries about new lower ball joints. the sitee was very helpful and gave all the part numbers i needed. I could have got stock sherpa ones for about £25 delivered. I phoned up Fisher sports cars as they have been helpful in the past. They said that over the years as the ball joints have been made they have had less and less meat around the ball reducing the space between the bottom of the tapered hole in the lower w/b and the ball on the joint. This worsened the problem of destroying rubbers but also made the ball joint less effective and limiting its movement. So much so that they have had their own design of b/j made up. This has a lot more meat around the base therfore returning the geomitry to its original design and prevents the rubber from being pinched as easily. I dont know how true any of this is but i wouldnt have thought that fisher would have gone to the bother of designing their own if it was required. They are obviously more expensive but anything bespoke is, i doubt they are making much more money by selling them.

I was sold anyway and ordered them, they arrived the next day. They were £50 delivered.

That's a good price . Also he's not waffling either ; my friend Dean who has a Fury had the exact same problem so has ordered some from Fisher.

Chris at fisher fury is a top bloke, certanlly knows his stuff. He said to me about the ball joints in the past. Let us know how they go and might well get some in!

i hav been working hard to get the car back together for the trackday next week and also get it looking presentable as there will be a couple of magazines there covering the event.

I changed the lower ball joints today and set the camber up. I had been putting it off as i wasnt sure exactly how tto do and get it accurate and the same both sides. I had spoken to Rob wwho gave me some helpful suggestions. I was chatting to my cousin who has a lovelly bosch digittal spirit level which gives a digital read out of the gress to 0.01 of a degree. This made life really easy.

Car in n the garage, floor is perfectly flat and level (thankfully), put level against the rim of the wheel touching at 6 and 12 oclock. N/S was 2.9 degrees and o/f was 2.2.

Fitted the new b/j's, a bit of guess work as to how much to screw them in by. Did the n/s first, dropped the car and settled the suspension and it was 1.8 degrees, Perfect i thought, did the o/s and checked that and low and behold, it was 1.8. First time, no messing about. I was chuffed to say the least. Job done.




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Well done you . Did you remember to re-set toe as well once you'd changed camber

i think the toe is pretty good but i will need to get it checked. Any methods for doing this myself? If it changes the camber a bit when i do it, then so be it, it seems one turn of the ball joint changes the camber by almost 1 degree so unless the camber goes way out, then its staying as is.

The car is almost ready, i'm just waiting for my new wheels to arrive, hopefully tuesday, along with a new headlight unit and new rear tail lights. Knowing my luck they will probably arrive on friday!
I am on a course all week so wont have much time in the evenings....

Changing the camber will change the toe BUT not the other way around SO you can change the toe to straight ahead or just 2 or 3 mm toe in , between both wheels without changing camber ok .
With the weight on the wheels ---------- cable tie a 6ft length of alloy angle or channell or even a nice straight wooden batten to the spokes of each wheel (leaving most of it's length forward of the car --- front end ) Prop the ends with whatever's handy , being careful not to bend the alloy in or out (dead straight )
Measure very accurately between the alloy lengths just in front of the car nose ------ then again around 15 inches forward of the ' nose ' . If the lengths are very straight and not curved in or out THIS difference in measurements is your toe in or out .
If you need to change it , remember that you screw the steering rack rods into their rod ends to toe in more ------- undo the rods from their rod ends to toe out more .

This is foolproof provided that the lengths of alloy are dead straight . I set mine this way and on one occasion at Neville's workshop he was convinced the toe would be out using this method ( pretty crude ) . He just happened to have a complete scales / camber / toe / castor checking equipment so checked it assuming the problem I was having at the time must be '' toe '' setting His words were '' well I'll be buggered -- it's spot on '' (I'd told him the toe was straight ahead )

Equipment's nice if you have it but there are other ways

NB -- handy tip is to tipex the rods against the nut either at the very bottom or facing ahead --- this way you'll know exactly how much turn of the rod acheives how much toe change .

After working into the evenings every day this week i have finally got the car fitted up. I havent use dsince the last track day, i basically stripped it, prepared it, took it for painting, brought it back, flat and polished it and then refitted everything. I please with how the car has turned out. One thing i would have changed is the rear tyres. I ordered 225's but they stick out a little too much I have have had to raise the rear suspension as i suspect they may rub. If i dont get any problems, i will drop the car a little and see how it goes. Next time i will get 215's and should be ok.

I havent got any graphics yet, i had a quote but it was £600 for a few stickers...... so i will shop around!

I havent taken the car out of the garage yet but i am hoping to get home from work in the daylight tomorrow to take it for a test drive and make sure everything is ok then load it up on the trailer ready for saturday morning to head off to Rockingham.

I will also try and take some pictures!

Antnicuk wrote: I havent got any graphics yet, i had a quote but it was £600 for a few stickers...... so i will shop around!

I only pay about £300 to have a van sign written c/w logos. Just go to a sign writters. If you can get the graphics on a computer then they can print & stick.

it was dark when i got home from work again so no picturres, just got in after getting the car ready for tomorrow.

I took it out for a drive with the new wheels and tyres tonight. Its nice to have some traction and the front grip is superb, no doubt, improved due to the wedge that i'm using to clear the rear tyres. Although i'm also using the new super soft compound 888's which do seem to be doing the job.

Its the first time i have driven it on the road since it was dynoed. I took it to the track straight after it was dynoed and striped it immediately after so it was my first experience of using full power and revs! all i can say is the acceleration is the closest thing to a motorbike on 4 wheels that you can get. I have lots of big bikes (Honda blackbird etc) and this car gives the same feeling. I went out for about 20 minutes and came back feeling car sick, the acceleration and braking forces are that strong!

Now its just a matter of me learning to drive it and tweak and tune the suspension.

I adjusted the toe tonight, it was toeing out by quite a lot which explained why it felt quite twitchy, especially on slightly uneven road surfaces. I now have a 'little' toe in and it felt much bettter on the road.

going to bed now!