Bringing Back the Dead.

[Antnicuk]

Brian with the westfield can drive though, he has been sprinting for several years, i would have a long way to go even though i do have 100 bhp over him.

Good day at the dyno today, at last the engine can breath and i'm making power to 7500 rpm.

She made 380 at the fly and 340 ftlbs (310 bhp atw's), so pretty much as i predicted, Still have an issue with boost dropping off, it peaked at 12 psi but soon dropped off to 9 psi after 5k rpm. although it's a nice safe boost level. We have put it down to the intercooler being restrictive so a less restrictive one will see the boost stay flat and not drop off which also means torque and BHP will also not drop off as quick. The I/C i'm using was only a cheap ebay one so a better quality one is called for. I'm not really looking for more power as the car is manic as it is, luckily the boost is adjustable in the car, but i would like things to work as they should. With a flat boost curve the power would easily be at 330 atw's

My wife is going to scan the graphs in at work tomorrow so i will post them up.

[Antnicuk]

my wife scanned the graphs in as pdf's so i'm not sure how to attach them, hopefully it will work.


edit nope, i cant upload pdf's i will see if i can convert it somehow

[Werner Van Loock]

just mail them to me and I'll put em up

Converted into a jpg

[Antnicuk]

Many thanks werner

[Antnicuk]

going to cadwell on friday, its my first time there so will hopefully be dry.

I have fitted my new exhaust and noise tested it today. It was 104 on the old system and 96 on the new one so i'm well happy!

[kevp]

Cadwell's is a great track. Its got good sweeping curves, tight bends & steep bits. Its easy to take off going over the mountain.

[Antnicuk]

Cadwell didnt quite go according to plan, I developed engine problems in the morning. A real shame as i had tweaked a lot of things that had been bugging me for some time. The suspension settings were roughly where i want them and at a stage that i could just tweak now that i have the right size tyres that dont rub on the rear arches. I was looking forward to doing lots of laps and learning to drive the car and the track but never mind, these things are sent to try us.

I stripped the engine tonight and its thrown an apex seal, nothing to major but i'm just not sure why. I will go over everything as i put it back together and get my injectors flow checked.

It also meant that I couldnt take it to abbeville in France last weekend and i cant take it to rotorstock this weekend at the Pod.

Still had a good time at Abbeville, its a great little track and would have been great in the stylus. I recommend people to try it. You can book it via Lotus on Track. The track is a bit small for my old M3 but the old girl did well, i just had to drift the tighter parts

[Antnicuk]

well the engine is back in and run in, going back to the dyno for a health check on saturday. The problem was caused by a fuel pump failure.


I have done a few things to her recently, I fitted the huge repackable silencer which bought my db down from 104 to 96 according to my meter at 4500 rpm, although Cadwell measured me at 88 db, but i didnt get to rev it to 4500 as he took the probe away just before 4000 rpm as it was well under the 105 limit. I please with the results as it means i can get on any track in the uk i think.

I have fitted a hydraulic handbrake (in addition to the cable one) as i want to have a go at some drifting it her, I done a little bit of drifting in other cars and really enjoy it, i think she will be great. I wanted to put the master cylinder out of the way and make the handle removable so when im not using it, its not in the way. I made a handle on the lathe that just slides over the mechanism when i need it. I have a Drift what ya brung at santa pod next week if the dyno session goes to plan.





I also fitted the lens covers that rob sourced, really pleased with the fit, its about perfect, i fitted them in a similar way to rob advised, I put masking tape on the car body where the edge of the lens meets the body, held the lens in place with tape and cut around it with a craft knife, this gave me a nice edge to paint up to once i peeled the excess tape off that fell within the area inside of the lens. I then sprayed this area black. I then made 6 small strips of 1mm thick aluminium 10mm wide by 30mm long drilled a hole in each end, i riveted one end to the lip of the fibreglass, folded it over and bolted the lens to it the tab, using 3 each side. I used motorbike screen bolts to attach the lens to the ali, as they are designed for bolting plastics, come with a plastic washer and a rubber encapsulated nut which you push in the hole in the ali and when you tighen it up the rubber swells stopping it coming out of the ali and you dont need to get behind it stop it turning as they are designed to be a tight fit in the ali strip. Oh, and they are stainless steel so look good.

[Antnicuk]

I went to a drift day at santa pod to have a go at drifting, Here is a little Vid from a car mounted camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAgUKWiqN8Q

Its certainly not the easiest thing to drift with no power steering, a quick rack and very little self centreing but still great fun. I have had to machine a restricting ring which fits in the mouth of the turbo (WRC stylee) to reduce the power and boost. I need to fit a bigger wastegate so i can bring the boost down to about 5 psi which make the car a little more sensible

I think i will also adjust my wishbones to give a bit more castor, IIRC i have about 3.5, Rob, any suggestion? i was thinking about trying 5. Also, will i have to re do the camber and toe afterwards?









And one of my pimped up tow wagon which matches the stylus

[stylussprinter]

There's no problem with trying 5 castor . If straight line stability is still good use what castor you want to suit what sport you're doing . Some tin tops run 8 , 9 and more castor
Regarding checking camber after adjusting castor ------ it depends whether you adjust castor by extending the rearward wishbone mounting rodend OR by moving the whole wishbone forward . If the latter camber shouldn't move much but you'd still have to re-adjust toe SO --- you may as well do both anyway , always good to check . It's also a very helpful thing to write down what and how much(how many threads)you adjust to acheive the setting THEN whenever you adjust again you can estimate if at the track without measuring

[Antnicuk]

Thanks Rob,

Is there a rough guide on how much moving the lower wishbone forward increases castor? I think i have a bout 10mm to play with. I'm at 3.5 at the moment.

Also, how do i measure it? I found out what it was from the 4 wheel alignment set up i did first time round but dont want to go through all that again.

[stylussprinter]

I haven't worked that out because I drove it to assess adjustment effect on the handling I desired then after using washers to get the setting , made up 4 nice alloy cones OR rather , Andy Bailey did
Having said that -- 3 fat washers or 4 to 5 mm's less at the frontal pick up point (your 10 available mm's) would make a good first stab. Drive it -- like or dislike the handling -- re - adjust if needbe . The figure doesn't matter as much as the result

I don't believe there's any finite set-up , it's what a given driver wants the car to do at certain points or circumstances

[Antnicuk]

thanks rob, i will give it ago

[MattD]

Hi Tony

Any chance of some pics of the attachment point for your roll cage, particularly the front end ?
Been thinking about doing something one mine, but there not much in the way of triangulaed/structural tubes under the dash/in the firewall area.

Would be interested to see how you've done it.

May well be requirement of the MSA Blue Book for sprints & hillclimbs next year too.
Not sure if its proposed, or actual yet.
Plenty have objected already, Rob being one of them..

Cheers

Matt.

[Antnicuk]

hi Matt,

You are right there wasnt much to attach to, i made feet out of angle iron which i welded to the chassis rails under the fibreglass at the base of the front feet, i then used a 6 mm plate 8 inches tall by 5 inches wide, you cant see it in the picture but its welded to the front roll hoop by the feet (8" vertically) and protrudes forward 95 inches) and is then welded to the bulkhead/chassis that is just in front of it. If i can et some better pics at the weekend i will but these are the only ones i have at the moment. I dont know if it would pass any kind of regs but its better than nothing........ i hope!