clubstylus

So, something like this.... ?
Seems like the obvious place for a join to me, means cutting through the corner of the dash on each side though.
Could be bolt in possibly.
No so bad, as I have no windscreen to get in the way anyway.

But.... tends to make the car look a bit agricultural, which I don't like !

For competition though , you can't just build what '' you '' think is strong and will save a life --- it has to be scrutineered to MSA reg's ,with regard to where each tube goes --- the diameter ---- the gauge ---- the tube manufacturing process/no kinks ---- the material .
That's what makes it expensive , having to get it made by a company who will guarantee it passing the reg's .

Similar Matt although the plates are welded all the way up the vertical part of the leg and the front and bottom edge of the plate are then welded to the upright under the dash forward of the door hinge and also the chassis rail along the bottom horizontal edge.

I used the correct seemless tube, and the correct guage and had it designed and bent by retro motorsport so that as near as possible it could if required, with little or no modification pass lower level regs, i just cut it to length, gussetted it and welded it in, although my cousin did most of the welding, he is a certified structural welder. He also drives the car and insisted he wouldnt until i fitted the cage

I didnt have to cut the dash, it bends towards the rear just below it and the then follows the windscreen.

stylussprinter wrote:For competition though , you can't just build what '' you '' think is strong and will save a life --- it has to be scrutineered to MSA reg's ,with regard to where each tube goes --- the diameter ---- the gauge ---- the tube manufacturing process/no kinks ---- the material .
That's what makes it expensive , having to get it made by a company who will guarantee it passing the reg's .

Hi Rob

Yes, I know, it not a cheap game, but its my neck on the block.

Mounting feet have to be 120cm.sq, so that's a plate 3mm thick x 4.5 inches square, then you need the same again welded to the chassis to bolt to (or weld direct). Not much room for that in a Stylus, without major surgery.

I've been going through the 2010 blue book, & road going kit classes are OK with my existing roll hoop & petty bar.
"Sports Racing Cars" need the improved setup. (I think..... still interperting the words ).

Matt

H,mmm , we'll see what happens when I turn up for the first event of the 2010 Championship without a full rollcage --- probably NORTH WEALD , as it's the cheapest one to throw my money away when turned down at scrutineering

Well after lots of suspension tweaks and swaps, the car feels better than ever on the road. Feels like a proper car now except on rails. Hopefully she will be just as good on track with just a tweak of the damper stiffness.

Had a mepping session yesterday so all is sweet and ready to go. Now i just need to find the time to fit in a track day!

I decided not to enter anything until the rollcage and category answers are VERY clear . Emailed the msa without reply several times. I'll be attending the speed forum next Tuesday where hopefully many things will become clear . Having just spent nearly £2000 in 2009 repairing the Stylus I don't feel inclined to cut the body about to get a full rollcage fitted in T45 . I'll probably test at Goodwood on the 6th of April , in the afternoon session , if there's a space at this late stage. If it's ok to go after info from the Tuesday forum then I'll enter the BOGNOR REGIS Goodwood Sprint on the 24th or 25th April

just took the back axle off and given it to a friends dad who used to race fords many years ago, along with my birthday present, a 3.75 CW&P! He knows these diffs inside out and offered to do the swap for me. It should transform the car as the 3.09 thats in it at the moment kills low down off boost acceleration..

Well the diff is in having had a refresh and new CWP, gone from a 3.09 to a 3.75

I also had a new prop shaft made, (well i sent the old home made one off to be balanced and he said he cant balance it cos its not straight , )

I also fitted new half shafts as one of mine had a slightly bent hub.

Apart from the fact that the whole car is obviously a lot smoother with no vibration the car is certainly a lot more lively to say the least, i have only run it on low boost but by god its quick. It will out accelerate my 1000cc sports bike!

Its still very civilised and cruises at 70 at 2700 rpm and does 70 in second which is nice. Oh, and if i ever hit 7000 rpm in fifth, it would be doing 180 mph so top speed isnt restricted too much

I was worried that with a higher ratio diff i would get more wheel spin but it doesnt seem to.

I am at woodbridge on saturday doing a Javeline Trackday so the test will be then to see if it gets out of the corners a little quicker.

It would be so nice to see it in action in my neck of the woods ------ a sprint maybe or Goodwood

I meant to ask Tony , how you get on with the ACB10's

i'm not sure if i would get into any sprints, but would love to a track day with some guys on here. The only let down would be my driving

I only ever had a second hand set of acb10's that came with a cheap set of wheels that i had just get the car rolling and they were a little old to say the least. From what i have heard they are very good. I stick to 888's.. although i have been tempted to try some full slicks on the back.

I just noted them on one of your photos

I had a great day at woodbridge track day today, the new gearing worked a treat, a passenger said to me he though my gearing was too short until i told him that 7500 rpm in 4th at the end of the long straight was 140 mph and then i chased, caught and over took a 59 plate Caterham R500 with a sequential box. The guy was driving it hard also. He came over afterwards and complimented me on the car after asking the same 2 questions that i have been asked over and over again at every event i ever go to...... "whats in it??" and "what is it?" I had no trouble on the straights overtaking him but could only just shake him on the twisties, although a lot of that is to with my poor driving style.

Really good day and i am well pleased with how the car performed, the only thing that got hot was me The brakes took a punishing as i was doing 140 and 125 at the end of the 2 straights every lap and i was out for 20 minutes at a time

any idea what i need to do to stop the front inside wheel lifting?

Antnicuk wrote:any idea what i need to do to stop the front inside wheel lifting?

Less front roll stiffness should help, as might slightly stiffer rear springs - though that might reduce traction - if you've good traction out of corners with the power you've got it might be worth sacrificing a little or sooner or later something is going to bend or break. Other than that you're looking at modifying the front suspension to allow more drop - longer shocks with more travel; have a word with Rob I think he's done similar. You may never totally alleviate it and I wouldn't worry - lifting an undriven inside wheel is not usually a big issue- use it to your advantage and float it over the rumble strip