clubstylus

hearbear wrote:You have got this lot for wiring also they do looms which plug staight into sierra stalks and is apparantly easy to fit also. http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/

Cheers George

PREMIER WIRING My loom , circa 1997 was premier and is fine regarding easy to follow if you're a non wiring guru BUT having seen Tim's wiring of a car the same as mine with the very same instruments,lighting etc etc etc ------------- mine's a huge loom and obviously totally unnecessary. My wiring is TIDY but fills the under dashboard -- Tim's looks as though it's not finished ie. bugger all in there. Wish he'd done mine , I might have found the wiring fault quicker when playing around after fitting my new engine

I'd follow Pete & Matts wiring supplier's loom , it looks similar

i got a set of 2wd cosworth callipers which use a solid disc, (the 4x4 use a vented disc). new pads from ebay, a pair of calliper mounting brackets and on order a pair of fiesta discs. I will need a sierra handbrake cable if i dont go hydrolic and that should be it

callipers £20
pads £5 (new)
Discs £6 (new)
Brackets £10

not bad really if it all works!

I have a question in relation to hydrolic handbrakes,. do i just put a T in the rear brake line and connect to the m/c on the hand brake? if so, what stops the fluid being pushed towards the front of the car, do the pedal m/c's have somekind of one way valve?

Antnicuk wrote: I have a question in relation to hydrolic handbrakes,. do i just put a T in the rear brake line and connect to the m/c on the hand brake? if so, what stops the fluid being pushed towards the front of the car, do the pedal m/c's have somekind of one way valve?

May be wrong but are hydraulic hand brakes not illegal on a road car.

i dont think it will pass an mot, thats another one of those bridges i will cross later

Does anyone know what the steering column is from?, there doesnt seem to be much poking out of the dash to attach some stalks to?, its just an inch round tube with the main shaft running through it. Also, is it supposed to spring forwards a little?

hearbear wrote:
May be wrong but are hydraulic hand brakes not illegal on a road car.

You can have an hydaulic hand brake but you also must have a cable operated brake on th car.
Phil

That seems crazy Phil I drove a DAIMLER limosine a few years ago and that had a hydraulic hand brake . I know this because I was stupid enough to hold the foot brake on before pulling up the handbrake THEN --- when I came to take it off , it took me a physical feat to get it off and that was after removing my jacket -- with foot on pedal -- and both hands yanking on the lever for what seemed 20 minutes
All this , while having JOHN JUNKIN and all his family in the car parked on a 45 degree wooden ramp , over water at TILBURY docks It got a laugh though

stylussprinter wrote:That seems crazy Phil I drove a DAIMLER limosine a few years ago and that had a hydraulic hand brake . I know this because I was stupid enough to hold the foot brake on before pulling up the handbrake THEN --- when I came to take it off , it took me a physical feat to get it off and that was after removing my jacket -- with foot on pedal -- and both hands yanking on the lever for what seemed 20 minutes
All this , while having JOHN JUNKIN and all his family in the car parked on a 45 degree wooden ramp , over water at TILBURY docks It got a laugh though

If the Daimler was pre 68 then it would have been OK, nowadays you need a mechanical emergency brake, even a rally car has both types of handbrake otherwise it won't get an MOT and they would be buggered between stages unless it was put on a trailer.

Phil

well i bit the bullet and bought a new floor mounted 3 in one floor mounted pedal box complete with 3 master cylinders and bias bar. Made me wince a bit as it was nearly as much as the cost of the car!

I had a little look tonight and i am confused.

I fitted the clutch m/c and with the clevis screwed all the way onto thee m/c and the pedal was pushed quite far forward to almost the 3 oclock position. There also seems to be a lot of pedal movement if i use all the m/c's movement. I have a few questions:

Are they supposed to any kind of spring to return them to the right position or do they rely on the m/c to push them back.

Is the rest point only held there by the m/c or should there be some kind of stop.

I wont know until I plumb the m/c in but it looks like the m/c will need to be compressed slightly to get the pedal in the right position, is this right?.

What is the right position for a floor mounted pedal. I would have though about 1 oclock from the gearbox side, so it points just slightly towards the driver unles you have double jointed ankles

No real update i'm afraid, been working long hours this week but it helps paying for bits.

I now have all the brake fittings, pipe and discs, pads etc so when i get a chance i will be making and fitting all the brake lines fitting the rear calipers to the Atlas axle.

i couldnt touch it last week but i had a few hours yesterday and a few today.

I put the pedal box together and fitted the standard mazda throttle cable (fidly) as i figured that way it would fit straight to the engine and i dont think it was much more work to fit the mazda one as it was to fit a universal one. fingers crossed its long enough. I adjusted the pedals a litle better when i fitted it.





I then fitted the box and made up new brake pipes throughout and the hydloic clutch line. I just need some resovoirs but i will worry about those later when i know how much room i have.







I am quite happy with how the pedal box has turned out, i was a bit worried about a lack of room but it all seems good. I have moved the clutch a bit further away from the brake than in this picture and even with my boots on i reckon i could drive it ok.




I also decided to move the steering column as it was at a strange angle. I have it dead centre now and it all seems to work ok. Does the agle look from the picture?

I have aslo made a new bracket to hold the column to the foot tunnel, I will weld it to the clumn as you see it in the picture, does it look ok?, its certainly more substantial than the old one. Is thee anything i need to know about welding to the column?






My rear discs arrived, i need to take my half shafts to my cousins workshop and lathe down the hubs by about 5mm so they fit inside the bell of the disc. Then i just need fit the longer studs and the callipers should bolt up without too much problem.

I found out the axle is actuall a 2.8 capri not a 3.0 litre as i initially thought. The 2.8 is another 2 inches wider.

Here is a neat res for the 3 master cylinders in one with switch for low level. This is the one I have fitted for my stylus. https://www.europaspares.com/BRAKE_PART ... _2684.html

Cheers George

Thanks for that, the lnk is web marshalled at work for some reason so i will look later on. I think i am going to need remote ones as the turbo and down pipe is going to be pretty close.


The rear callipers I have are 2wd Cosworth so I need to now get a sierra handbrake cable. I am assuming the H/B lever is MK2 escort so i am hoping i can link to 2 without too much grief. If I decide i want a hydrolic one and I will have 2 just in case i get any grief. No point having the lever and the callipers and not putting a cable between them.

the handbrake will depend on what year your chassis is. The very late/last chassis used the same lever, but a different layout.

If I were you I wouldn't weld the column in , I'd clamp it. One day you may regret it

I'm only welding the bracket to the column, the bracket is bolted to the end of the foot tunnel.