clubstylus

Tony prompted me to post some shots on the forums with:

Antnicuk wrote:be good to see some pictures of your project as i am going the turbo rotary route and some pointers for the exhaust and turbo position would be helpfull.

in the engines section of the site, and after suffering some set backs and forgetting how to upload my photos I've finally got a few to share.

They're all hosted at my flickr account: http://www.flickr.com/photos/earl_of_rossco with additional comments and captions, the url of the actual set (15 shots in all) is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/earl_of_ro ... 538987729/ but just to whet your whistle:







PS: My daughter was assisting me in posting to the forums but is quite frustrated that it appears even though the options claim html is on she cannot post simple anchor links or img tags in a post and have them render at all. As these are not malicious javascripts or anything of the like she would like to know how 'gimped' that option is so she can advise me on the best way to post in future.

Great pic's . My god that's going to be a pig to work on though -- no space to get at anything. What does the engine weigh it's very far forward . Have you got P.Powell's original spring set of 180 fronts 130 rears
Nice alloy work , tank , intercooler --- scary loom Rob

rossco61 wrote:
PS: My daughter was assisting me in posting to the forums but is quite frustrated that it appears even though the options claim html is on she cannot post simple anchor links or img tags in a post and have them render at all. As these are not malicious javascripts or anything of the like she would like to know how 'gimped' that option is so she can advise me on the best way to post in future.

Best to use is the BBcode tags ie

looking good rosco,

you are ahead of me!, keep us updated

stylussprinter wrote:Great pic's . My god that's going to be a pig to work on though -- no space to get at anything. What does the engine weigh it's very far forward . Have you got P.Powell's original spring set of 180 fronts 130 rears
Nice alloy work , tank , intercooler --- scary loom Rob

Hi Rob, The pic's are taken with a Fiji S5500 -- 10x optical zoom Digital at a 2megapixel rate. Capable of 4 m/p but 2 seems to be sufficient.
"Pig to work on" Should not be too bad as it will finish up as not only a flip front but a full removable front. Note the steel lined rubber mounts at the bottom left & right front of the Rad/Intercooler mount frame.They are designed to accept steel pins hinged to the body front support panels.
Engine weight ?? Wish I knew !! It is an Iron Block & exhaust manifold, but with Alloy head & intake. Have tried several sources for info, so far, no results.

Engine "far forward". The front of the timing case is 6.5 inches behind the front chassis rail. The Nissan engine mounts sit on new Chassis mounts at the rear of the original mount positions. I assumed that was correct ??

"Spring sets", yes I have P.P original springs with AVO front shocks & GAZ rear units. -- From what I have read in this Forum, I will need to replace the springs. This should be easy -- we have a good Industrial Spring maker in Adelaide -- & less than A$100 per pair, or so I am told.

The Alloy Intercooler & pipework was made by "ASE" in Adelaide. That's AutoSport Engineering. They are very good!! web at aseturbo.com
The Tank was produced by an Auto Engineer in Port Pirie, 45Km west of here, who builds Dirt Circuit cars amongst many other things.
Both from my cardboard designs.

"Scary Loom". Sure is!! Altho since that pic, I have removed about half of it, still more to go !! Then new wiring for instruments, Lights, fuel pump, control switches, etc.
Fitting the electric winch to the Trailer at the moment. About one more week should see the Trailer finished. Then back to the "little one" !!

Regards, Rossco.

Oops, missed a spelling mistake.
The Camera is a Fuji Fine Pix S5500 Not a Fiji !!

And, -- will get some more pic's ASAP My daughter will be home again in a few days, hopefully will get that HTML problem straight !!

Regards, Rossco.

I think you're doing a great job Ross , particularly as you have no other guys cars to look at and chat over problems etc. Bit like Werner really , although if he fancies it he can soon pop over to the UK for a browse for not much travelling cost That's where this forum comes in for info and photos which helps a bit but not the same a face to face look and discussion
Will you compete with it when finished or generally swan around (perhaps that should read ' kangeroo ' around ) Give me a shout when it's ready to set up and we can chat over spring rates/shock settings/ARB etc PM or email .

Regards , Rob

Thanks for the compliment Rob. Yeah! Bit like Werner Altho its just a bit further & a mite more costly. Depends on time of year, but return fares are in the vicinity of A$2500 to A$3000.

So, yes I am enjoying the Forum & the info.
"--- compete with it ---" Probably NO, as apart from a once a year hill-climb just out of Adelaide & 250Km from here, I know of no other events suitable for "an old bloke in his home built sporty car"! Fun cruising on a sunny day trying not to get caught exceeding the 110Km limit will be its use. There are a few nice twisty roads not far away that one could enjoy on a 250 to 300Km "Sunday Drive"!!

Further to the pics I put on Flickr a while back. Have just added 8 more --- on the exhaust system
Will add the Dump pipe pic here as I can add a little extra info for anybody not familiar with the concept.
The Do-nut referred to was made from two pressings -- like very large washers -- in a male/female die. These are then welded together to form a pipe section ring that was about 4" ID & 10" OD. See the weld on my dump pipe. One then carefully cuts a quarter turn out of it (twice), & welds in short pieces of pipe to achieve the required shape and length.
The black finish is Hi-Temp Ceramic Coating, inside & out. This was also done to the original manifold & the Turbine housing. Cost was low, something under A$200 for all 3 pieces.

Research was done on the process before I did it.
On a particular standard Sporty car, under bonnet temperatures reached 900 degrees an inch or so from the exhaust manifold & "all too close" to hydraulic lines etc. After HTC Coating the temp at the same test position dropped to less than 150 degrees & the other lines etc. stayed quite cool.
As an extra bonus, the power output went up by several HP, "a quite noticeable amount" as it was reported !!



The exhaust system shown above (plus additional comments) and further photographs of the system & cat converter are uploaded to my flickr account starting with "Exhaust System 001"

looking good there rosco, is there enough ground clearance to put an exhaust that big under the car?, i though they had to be in the sill

Antnicuk wrote:looking good there rosco, is there enough ground clearance to put an exhaust that big under the car?, i though they had to be in the sill

IIRC they have decent roads over there not like the Sh@t we have to drive on.

It is Looking good though Rossco

Phil

Antnicuk wrote:looking good there rosco, is there enough ground clearance to put an exhaust that big under the car?, i though they had to be in the sill

Ground clearance has to be 100mm or 4" to pass ADRs for registration.
That means the chassis will be 8" up. Do not particularly like that, but the law says thats the minimum.
To go down thru the Sill requires one "hell of a job" as then clearing the Wheel & the back axle is impossible. The exhaust MUST exit the rear of the car ( be the last part to pass you ) to comply !!

Incidentally, it is now 4.15pm Sunday 30th. December & the outside temperature is 42.3 degrees centigrade. That is why I am sitting at the Computer & not in the shed working ! It's only 24 deg. in here !!

Regards, Rossco

IIRC they have decent roads over there not like the Sh@t we have to drive on.

It is Looking good though Rossco

Phil

Thanks, Phil, but yeah, some of our roads are quite good, even OK at 140Km, if you are game. Too many are atrocious, even at only 80Km. with rough & broken edges, short undulations & even off-cambered corners, altho many of them have been fixed over the last few years.

Further to Exhaust clearance & going thru the Sill. I just had another look & the Dump pipe would need to be re-made such that the first bend was angled out at about 45deg. Then add a flexible pipe so the Cat-Conv. could be rubber mount fixed in the Sill. AND SOMEHOW INSULATED FROM THE BODY !! 3" pipe back to about the trailing arm suspension bolt position, then a quick turn down -- in & under the trailing arm, then back & under the axle to finally rise to the exhaust box which needs to hang from about the leading arm rear suspension bolt. As I said, the exhaust MUST exit the rear of the car to comply with the Aust. Design Rules.

Much fun & games. ( Impossible ?) Cheers, Rossco

Checked the temp in the shed, now 46 deg.

Moved the topic and changed the titile of the forum here.

This way all build related is in one forum and not scattered through the forums

rossco61 wrote:

Antnicuk wrote:looking good there rosco, is there enough ground clearance to put an exhaust that big under the car?, i though they had to be in the sill

Ground clearance has to be 100mm or 4" to pass ADRs for registration.
That means the chassis will be 8" up. Do not particularly like that, but the law says thats the minimum.
To go down thru the Sill requires one "hell of a job" as then clearing the Wheel & the back axle is impossible. The exhaust MUST exit the rear of the car ( be the last part to pass you ) to comply !!

Incidentally, it is now 4.15pm Sunday 30th. December & the outside temperature is 42.3 degrees centigrade. That is why I am sitting at the Computer & not in the shed working ! It's only 24 deg. in here !!

Regards, Rossco

I was just thinking Ross , that with 8 inches ground clearance the front geometry will be way out . Roadholding & handling also . (Especially with the bhp you have planned) One way to counteract that would be ---- 15 inch wheels and 55 or 60 profile OR any mix that will keep the lower wishbones approximately level , although I wouldn't recommend a profile below 45 . Jack up the car when fully built weight wise and rest the tyres/wheels on wood blocks to acheive your 8 inch chassis height/ground clearance. Check the wishbone angle then adjust wooden blocks to leave wishbones level. NOW you'll see what wheel , tyre mix will suit your circumstances AND keep geometry about right. To stop '' roll '' which at this height it will , I'd run quite high spring rates plus antirolbar up front . If you use an antirolbar at the rear it needs to be very weak . Spring & shock lengths will become obvious once you jack up to check as above so might have to disconnect. You may have to cut some F/Glass once sizes are decided.

Great pictures rossco. lots of good ideas there.